allias

Im having problem to figure which one is - before, after and spec. If preset is the one for final adjustment then they did nice job for front axle (maybe too heave on possitive toe) but rear doesnt seems right. Seems as they had right camber and made it worst. Which is weird for Fabia as there is no adjustment so better if you let me which one is which then I would be in a better place to advice you about it.

When...? :p Let me know when you want to pop in for initial check.

silver1011 if you feel like visiting our place in Leeds then I can promise you I can find solutions for your suspension problems. PM me if you want to know more.

ABC Car in Leeds Got few good reviews here. :p

If someone does 4 wheel alignment and doesnt check camber then its not alignment but tracking because they check toe only. Toe needs to be set accordingly to camber. Different camber angles require different settings for toe. What they did was waste of your moeny (unless you have print out to proove it to us). If you had it lowered then most likely you had youe camber more neg and that can create more inside wear. Its all done to read your suspension right. Get it re-checked by someone who acctualy does full alignment job.

Before you spend money on set of tyres, get a few £££ for alignment with print out. Only one with print out as then you will have proove as what is going on on your vehicle.

We done few cars after other found nothing.

It might be worth checking 4 wheel alignment. If you any where colse to Leeds come see me and I will check it for you.

If you have a different sterring position after changing 2 front tyres it will be down to their condition while you had old set on rims. If alignment place does it ONLY to spec that means they dont understand it and only use machine to set it to spec instead to vehicle. I would suggest you to give them one more chance - if not visit different place. If you have no joy - fancy a ride to Leeds to see me with your suspension problems? So far I got every single Skoda sorted :p

Sound like tyre issue. Try swaping front tyres side to side. If it will drive ok - there you go. If will pull other way then its a tyre problem. If its going to be the same - camber/caster problem or they just done it wrong. Where are based? I know very good place for alignment services in Leeds.

You not the first one. I had 3 or 4 Octavias that where less then 18months old and they all had read with fraction out what was causing noise from back. Seems they come set wrong from factory.

Non directional tyres dont eliminate/prevent sawtoothing problem. It only help to possibly to stop it or fix it when occurs. Only properly set alignment can prevent this no matter what tyres you use.

CJSVRS. Make sure you get print out of work carried out. I can check it for you when they done.

Here is the example of sawtoothing tyre. Easier to feel the difference when you rub you hand against tyre one way and then opposite. One way you will feel it smooth - other will be catching your skin. If its like that on yours - it started sawtoothing. Solution: despite general opinion its not rotation front to back, as tyre will travel same direction and it wont fix it. Ideal solution is to swap them side to side to change direction of travel. That way you have a chance (only chance) to even this out. It all depend on your suspension and tyre type. That is impossible with directional tyres (thats why I always stay away of directional tyres because of possible problems like this) so only option would be to make a opposite spec to the one its creating problem to "eat" even thhead and then bring it back to right angles. I would suggest that to be done only by someone who knows what to do and understand alignment more then setting just a "angles spec". Sawtoothing problem on Skoda`s? It down to cosmeting adjustment on back. Like VRs drivers are mostly aggresive and car is set for 50year old grand-pa who brakes 95% speed before getting into corner. - Simples.

That little movement does make a difference. To bad for drivers that VAG cars have so much slack on subframe. But at least we got some work :p

Even standard wishbones an creat marginal difference in toe after swaping ball-joints and it will effect alignment. You better doing it dispite general opinion.

Its known to us that front subframe need shifting but there could be more to check. Thats where lots of garages make a mistake becasue they think - toe is enough. Toe is something what you look at as a last thing. You need to consider much much more. Suspensions may be same but each vehicle is different and might need different solutions - the same as when you do tuning and universal map might not be ideal - will do job but is it "perfect" for YOUR car? The same with alignment checks - it require diagnosis of entire suspension. Faboka vrs: what do you mean other hardware? We have John Beam 3D Visualiner kit plus camber gauge if I need to use plus big set of tools needed to work on suspension. Mayor tool/hardware is that machine for readouts but I think I can be pround about expierience with OEM, lowered, raised setups. That covers american muscle cars, japan jdm and few other brands and drivetrains like AWD, 4x4 + Vans, pickups - You name it.

Unfortunetly no :(. But let me know if you change you mind. :p

4x4 is no different to other car but if you meant 4 wheel alignment - only that kind is the right way of doing it

We can do it at our place in Leeds :p

Check is free. As far as price it depends on what needs doing. If you need more details PM me.

Can be, but... I hope you talking about mk1 as mk2 has full adjustment.

Good garage should should check suspension before carring out alignment/tracking. There is no point doing it if there is still something wrong.

Dispite you had alignment done (or should say tracking) that doesnt mean you had all angles right. If it was only toe adjusted then I guess you might have problem with caster/camber. Do test on destered road like bluevrs said and if you will still have problem then if you decide to take a trip to Leeds I can ensure you I can sort it for you. Also check if there is difference in strengh on pull while accelerating or just on a roll. See if there change it.

Toe wont be an issue in this case. They will have same settings or very similar so there no reason to even consider toe as a factor while swaping those beams.