allias

30k on Contis - that means you are very steady driver. Congrats on result.

Its not that far from you: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/217475-4-wheel-alignment-in-leeds-bradford-area/ http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/218818-amazing-wheel-alignment-in-west-yorkshire-leeds/

Instead guessing its better to get garage with laser machine to do print out and solve problem. There is defenetly an issue on this suspension. Angles are so small and there is no way you can see then or adjust them "by eye" and tring to guess here is no good either. If you really want to solve this and save next set of tyres - then you need to do proper 4 wheel alignment check/adjustment.

I bet this is price for new stub axle as it cant be 550 for two bearings only.

If what you call angle would be wrong it would be distrubuted between both front wheels equaly and cause your steering wheel be off centre. With negetive camber on rear (as most of cars) you need positive (or close to 0) toe to make your tyre last longer. To make it simple - negetive camber ----> you want positive toe to compensate that. Positive camber (small cars, few vans and heavy trucks) and then you want negetive toe to compensate that. Only with racing setups drivers tend you set negetive toe to get more oversteer on corners. Tyre life is not concern in cases like that.

karlbar2k - that way those bars are directing is relevenat without scale and numbers. It all depend on spec and nubers used. snow_muncher - Beissbarth will be as good as every other but its really important if fitter/technician know where and why adjust it as it not about going by numbers as many make that mistake and there is no understanding why problems occur.

Why dont you look at your current tyres? I doubt someone made a affort to change all 4 to wrong size? If you change wheel sizes then use http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html to calc size and differences between old and new size.

You said you checked tyre pressure. What was is it and what did you feel up with? Neg camber and low pressure would defenetly help to end-up like this. Were those on front or rear? If front that mean you have to much neg toe as well. Those much more factors that can influence this like that.

Not nessecary rear. If you feel it at steering wheel its front - if its in car body or seat thenits rear. As far as your problem it might be DMF - which better diagnose with mechanic without pointing this out. Let them do job and find problem otherwise they might think - Yes its DMF - Lets do it!.

There is a chance that your standard shocks are gone. 55mm drop for standard shockers that is quite a pressure on them. If you say they counce a lot that might proove the problem. As far as option - you need to concider your needs. Need for handling or need for comfort. If you want comfort - then raise your setup as when droped your driving comfort is gone for good. If you want handling - cant go wrong with coils. I dont know JOM but one thing you need to be carefull. Some coils are crap on materials used. Best way is to buy coil kit when you get pre-set dampers with coils but that cost more then a penny. If you on a budget look for decend sport dampers and use set of springs you have as long they are still in good condition.

I havent seen tyre so hard to say but I would guess you had to much wear on outside of your tyre - front as well in a rear. With previous setting - various things could happend to your tyres. I bet handling feel more direct now, does it? And most liekly will help you with life of your currect and future tyres.

You all forgetting that few balancing machines give you choices of programs and it really depend what way you balance it might come with very odd readings. For example you might have a wheel that require 120g - 50g on one side and 70 on other (because its bent or something else). Since you have alloy wheel and you dont want to stick on 120g on wheel there is program that allows you to do balancing on one side which might ask for 20g in total as a counter balance to other reading to equilize the difference. After all its all about make it even spin. There are plenty ways to do it right but only mechanic who pays attantion to details wont need to do it twice. Its not "black art" but it does require some skills and "that touch" - specialy on cases like this one.

Equipment is great but its not only the machine but person that use it. There should be no supprise rear is adjustable. Every car will have rear adjustalbe as long its with independant suspension. Only straight beam axle need shims and extra work to make it work. As far as your results. Looks like who ever did the job played with arm adjustment on right side as it should be balanced between that and plate in frame. Somehow he resulted with much more negetive camber then he had initialy. Went from -1.6 to -2.0. Its still within spec but you might get inside wear on this tyres bigger then others. - remember - you might or might not. Good to see great outcome in overall.

It might be between starter motor and flywheel. Your starter might be on a way out so it doesnt kickin like it should. If that is the case I would have this changes asap - otherwise you might run into bill for damaged flywheel and that aint cheap.

If its low miles then most likly IT wasnt driven properly. I dont mean trash it but let the vehicle breathe correctly. What I would do is drive it for few miles as someone would chase you then get it serviced and change all possible filters and oil. If its real 3000 miles from 2008 then most likly it stood more then drive and that aint good for car either. Also check tyre pressure and tyre condition.

What size you need? Those guys are good on prices. We use them very often: http://www.clickontyres.com/ And then those guys to have them fitted and check out alignment after: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/218818-amazing-wheel-alignment-in-west-yorkshire-leeds/

It all depend on amount of a drop. More drop = more handling & less comfort. Since you have certain mods in plans maybe do what you got and set 4 wheel alignment and see how it feels. Sometimes tweaking setup can change the way it feels. You really need to set your mind on want you want and then use good brand to get results. I dont think it will make a huge difference between H&R, Eibach or other. The emount of drop will - thats the only mayor factor.

Already cant wait.

Check condition of your tyres. If you see/feel any unregular shape - you found your problem.

At our place if its in a middle, it is a 5 min job and you dont pay anything. That is what I do as a courtesy for customers.

You said tracking but when you lowered you want to make sure about camber and caster reading. Camber between -1 and 0 and caster even on both sides. Rear would be somewhere between -0.5 to -1.5 neg camber. Front toe do with positive figures - about 10min. That should be correct figures for lowered suspension.

Proper alignment place will have setting for you. You dont have to worry about that.

First of all think as when it occurs. If its at speed related then: 45-70mpg is wheel balance problem. If its lower speed then buckled tyre. If it feel irregular then loose suspension parts. Before you diagnose the problem you need first to check in what situation it comes on. Its not the point of just guess.

Good to hear that there is possible positive outcome. Let us know when you done.

I would jack vehicle and check each wheel for clearance. It might rubbing againt arches. Thats way rubber smell.