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youngbaz

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Everything posted by youngbaz

  1. Yes I accept those comments. In fact that's exactly what I said to my wife when telling her what had happened. Nevertheless 'recall' was the word the girl used on the phone. I guess I was just wondering whether others had come across it. I have to say that I find the 'dealer action' reassuring as it does at least show there's a recognised fix. I had the same issue with my first Octavia. My local Skoda dealer at the time was a bit dismissive. 'Well it IS only an Audi part,' he explained.
  2. HI A few weeks back I had an issue with my tailgate release motor. After much juggling, starting engine, locking, relocking etc, it recovered. Then yesterday it recurred. When hitting the remote unlock, there was no 'clunk' from the tailgate, and it wouldn't open. I had to crawl in via the rear seats and push the emergency release to the left with a screwdriver. Although the tailgate partially opened, it still wouldn't go the last little bit. After pressing the release by the number plate several times I eventually heard the motor whirr, and it did this reassuringly a few times. Next time I tried it - same again - so back into the load area from the inside and repeat with the emergency release. Exactly the same symptoms. Vehicle was booked into the dealer for tomorrow morning - under warranty. Sod's law ... today it was working fine. I called the dealer to say I would still like to bring it in if possible, even though it was currently working, as I was concerned it might recur when the loadspace was full with heavy objects. Were they happy for me to bring it in, and was it likely they could diagnose even if functioning OK? Much to my surprise, the girl in service department said: 'Yes, certainly, we have a recall on the tailgate mechanism, so not an issue at all.' I haven't trawled the historical posts here to see if this recall had already been flagged - but if not, be aware; maybe call your dealer proactively? For the record, my Yeti is a run-out 2017 registered Drive - 150bhp diesel.
  3. I'll take the confirmations that cans can run on for a variety of reasons that predate DPF - so thanks guys. Also I won't take any proactive steps to stop it when it happens.
  4. Urrell are you saying that this is always and only as a result of an interrupted regen?
  5. In reading an extended discussion on regeneration of the DPF it was mentioned that one sign of an interrupted regen was if the fans continued to run after the ignition was switched off. My question is .... Is that the only context in which they might continue to run? This has happened to me a couple of times, but in neither case would I have suspected a regen. If I again turn the ignition back in and off again they stop. Current car is 2017 Yeti 150 DSG. The same thing happened a few times with my previous car - Octy VRS CR diesel. I'm sure I read somewhere way back that this could also be down to air conditioning. Any views?
  6. Fair enough - apologies then. Actually I do have to admit that I wasn't up to speed on the difference between uric acid and urea - I thought they were different instances of what was essentially the same chemical. I was interested to learn therefore how uric acid was sourced for commercial purposes and it transpires it does come from 'natural' sources: "Commercially, uric acid has been prepared from guano by extracting it with alkali and then precipitating with acid. Guano is essentially the droppings of bats or seabirds, and has been found in large quantities on some islands. " So it's from bat and gull pee then. .... Even though this doesn't apply to Adblue of course.
  7. Doohh. Come on Kelper! The fact that I made a joke about the source of the uric acid in Adblue doesn't mean that I seriously think it's processed from human sources. I was simply taking the p**s. Where's your sense of humour?
  8. Just realised that the 0.5 gall marked on the container is half a US gallon if it's 1.89l - not half a UK gallon as had assumed. Presumably that must mean that VAG are flying loaded containers of what is basically Uric acid and water all the way across the Atlantic. Someone's taking the p*ss surely! Or should I say sending it? I'm sure I could quote them for flying the empty bottles over and filling them on the far side with 'naturally occurring materials' - some from my own personal portable uric acid production plant - thereby saving them a fortune, making myself a fortune at the same time - oh - and saving the planet in the process.
  9. Apologies if this specific tip has been covered before - in which case admin - please feel free to delete. My new Yeti came up for its first Adblue refill. I'd read on the forums that it was a good plan to buy both the half gallon bottle from VW because of its dedicated non-drip/non overfill top AND the 10 litre container for economy. Just refill the first from the second they said and Bob's your proverbial. First stage completed with no trouble, bit when I came to take off the top from the small container to refill it .... Doohh! It was worse than Paddy McGinty's goat ... I was pushing it, pulling it, shoving it etc etc. Couldn't shift it with the top in a vice, nor with mole wrench - the whole thing kept slipping and I was scared of breaking it. Eventually I decided to try hacking out a couple of the serrated sections at the very bottom of the cap in the hope that it might loosen it enough for removal. I used a Stanley knife, cut out two sections - on opposite sides - and it did the trick. Still stiff to turn though. One further tip ...Don't retighten the top on the small container too tightly after you've refilled it otherwise it's tough to remove again. A couple of pics below to show what I did - all very high tech! Incidentally, I couldn't believe the aggro involved in buying the stuff from the VW dealer I was conveniently driving past - Inchcape in Chelmsford. A beautiful new showroom, high standard of finish, beautifully lit, with loads of VWs on display. One solitary receptionist at a counter immediately by the door. I asked for parts department. 'What do you want?' said she. 'Adblue' says I. She very efficiently asked if I wanted someone to fill it for me and what size I wanted. 'I just need you to direct me to the parts counter' I said. She said they didn't have one and someone would bring me my parts. The dealership was pretty empty - one sales customer that I could see. I asked where the loos were and was gratified not to be told that they would be brought to me! Anyway - went to the loo - very smart indeed and all very impressive and returned to the showroom. Still no sign of my Adblue so I pottered around the new cars for a bit. The new t-Roc was on display which I thought might perhaps be a replacement for the Yeti in x years time now that they've been discontinued. I was particularly interested in the size of the boot, given that one of the biggest downsides of moving from Octavia to yeti was loadspace dimensions ... but the tailgate was locked. I tried inside, but no joy. No sign of a salesman on the floor, so I gave in and went back to reception. (Can anyone please explain the point of locking a vehicle in a new car showroom so a potential customer cannot 'explore'?) Meanwhile back at reception, still no sign of my Adblue - so I asked. 'He'll be with you shortly'. I paced up and down a bit, then went to reception and gave the lady (not her fault I know) my considered evaluation of their system. She said no VW dealerships had parts counters anymore. I said enough was enough and was halfway to the exit door when I saw a gent approaching with two plastic bottles. Next thing - as you might have guessed - he then had to go back to his cave to fetch a card reader! 'Discuss rationale of VW dealership strategy' - time allowed two hours! Anyway pics attached in case they help anyone. I've marked in blue on the pic of the whole bottle one of the segments I hacked off. VW Adblue top up bottle - modified.pdf VW Adblue top up bottle cap modified.pdf
  10. Thanks for that. I'll check the coasting function is enabled on my wife's key - it's certainly set up on mine.
  11. Still discovering things on the new Yeti, which we've now had for three months. One thing that I noticed recently was that some of the individual menu settings that can be changed on the Maxidot are specific to the key that's being used. For example the ambient temperature reads in Fahrenheit with my key and Centigrade with my wife's key. Similarly I changed the length of time the headlights stay on when parking up using her key and the original settings are still in place using my key. So now I'm wondering .... We have the 150 DSG engine. As I understand it, the gearchanges on the DSG adjust in response to 'recent' driving styles and patterns. Does this mean that the 'computer' recognises when a different key is used to start the engine and adjusts the DSG behaviour accordingly, or is it always based on most recent driving style, regardless of whose key was being used? Is there anything else that's key specific? I haven't tried it yet, but I suspect that the tuned radio station on start up might again be key specific. Anyways - it's darned clever and very useful!
  12. Quite possibly - but I find it quicker/easier just to check what the maxidot is saying speedwise - rather than peering at the speedo. So I convince myself that's also safer - ie less microseconds with eyes off the road ahead!
  13. I was discussing the outside air temperature the other day with SWMBO and mentioned that it had been 61deg Fahrenheit at 10.00pm. She asked how I knew and I said the Yeti had told me. She said the Yeti gives her that info in Deg Cent. I thought she must be dreaming, but no - the readout is ignition key sensitive. It reads F with my key and C with hers. I think I probably did make the change when fiddling with the menu shortly after purchase, but assumed that the change would be 'universal' rather than key specific. I guess that's 'simply smart' but a bit of a pita when one does want to implement for all users. I've now also learnt by heart the relevant mph to kph conversions for checking the readouts on maxi-dot with CC engaged - eg 48kph; 64kph; 80kph etc. I'm assuming these read outs are more accurate than the needle on the speedo?
  14. Thanks for all the responses. Living in a rural village with lots of steep hills to get anywhere and with our new house set some 90m back from the road up a steepish drive I do think the OR button would have offered enhancements that would have added to our winter peace of mind, but there you go. Amazing the trouble and detail the VW owner went to to convert his car. I wouldn't even begin to go there I'm afraid. Perhaps I might just ask a main dealer whether they can do it.
  15. When we picked up our new Yeti Outdoor Drive SE 150 DSG 4x4 a couple of weeks back (wanted an SEL but nowt available) I expressed surprise and disappointment that there was no 'off-road' button as if read the owner handbook and concluded the benefits it offered were worth having. The salesman told us that, with the new Haldex, it was no longer necessary. I knew this was total B/S but chose not to argue. Now I look at the relatively low option price of this feature I can't help thinking that all it does is facilitate or enable access to functions that are already inbuilt to the 4x4 version anyway - ie it 'unlocks' them as it were. Does anyone else share this view or know for sure whether it's the case or not? It's just that, if it is, it should be possible for the dealership, with the right kit, to access whatever's necessary and then just stick the button on the dash. Am I being naive? One other thing... The Skoda website seems pretty inaccurate as to what spec the Drive models have. Eg my SE has LED tail lights but these are shown as a £200 option. I certainly wasn't charged for them. In the meanwhile .... Slowly getting used to being a one - car family for the first time as we traded in our beloved Octy VRS and the Citigo 75. Sadly missed but the Yeti I'm sure will prove itself.
  16. Well, every time I've added a destination so far the PID (Garmin) has offered three routes and you have to be PDQ to select the one you want before it assumes you want the first. They seem to be fastest, shortest and ANO (non-M-way?) and I'm sure I did see the options available on a menu.
  17. According to this week's Auto Express the MkIII VRS is on sale in July. "Likely to be a choice of 217bhp petrol and 181bhp diesel plus 6-speed manual or 7-speed DSG." Has anyone seen any official news releases to confirm this? More importantly, has there been anything officially released to suggest that the VRS will have different rear suspension from the standard MKIII? Or any other info on specs that anyone can point me towards eg links? Thanks.
  18. Have you tried running it in 'S' rather than 'D'? Sorry, but never had anything untoward in mine at all - four months old.
  19. Or simple soundproofing of front passenger seat area as a cheaper option? More seriously: Heated screen - absolutely! Cannot understand why only Ford of the major manufacturers seems to offer this. Major benefits, not only on frosty mornings, but also to avoid having to have the aircon on to avoid screen misting on rainy days. Flappy paddles on DSG-boxed vehicles - seconded Adjustable thigh supports on front seats - ie those that slide forward/backwards; again, used to be standard on Ford sporty derivative seats And one to wind half of you up: Option of genuine wood veneer trim ilo silver false alli inserts And another: choice of interior trim colour ... especially please - may I have a lighter coloured rooflining; it's so doomy in there!
  20. Like yourself I was driving a MkI Octy for many years ... 110bhp TDi which I had virtually from new in April 1999. It had done 140K when I sold it in March - cannot say it never let me down, but was pretty reliable overall. When I replaced it with a (new) VRS I opted for the DSG box since I'd read such excellent technical, road-test and personal reports of it. Like the other posters here I've never regretted it for one moment ... it really does give you the best of both worlds, it's a Jekyll and Hyde! Coupled with cruise control (standard on the VRS) it allows for a very relaxed drive if you (or SWMBO ) want, but if you want to put your foot down you will beat a manual any time because effectively you're never off the power during the gearchange. And all this without the fuel consumption penalty of a traditional torque converter. Wth one exception it always seems to be in the gear I want, when I want. The exception is that sometimes, cruising in an uncongested 30mph zone and obeying the limit scrupulously (as you do!), my DSG sometimes insists on sitting in 4th (presumably in case I want to zoom off somewhere?) when I would personally slot into 5th to relax the engine ... and moving across to 'manual' has no effect - it won't let me override. Otherwise - would absolutely always make the same decision again! re your visit to the Skoda dealer ... I'm not totally surprised. If it was Underwoods you went to I got the impression they were still learning about Skoda. So bought my new one a long way away - again, great deal, great service, right decision!
  21. It can be done .... there was thread on here a couple of months back with full details and pix - do a search! But I bet you don't rush to do it - loads of bits to be removed in order to get at the bottle and drop it out before installing the replacement larger one.
  22. I suggest you try filling up with Milton Fluid (the stuff usually sold to sterilise baby feeding bottles) - available at any supermarket or chemist. Make up the solution as per the instructions on the bottle (ie dilute it - don't use it neat!), then get as much into the bottle as you can. Then just pass the whole bottle through the jets by spraying your screen as per usual with the vehicle stationary (I suggest you turn off all ventilation inside the car first, if you want to avoid the smell ingressing). Then, when bottle is empty, just make up a pint of Milton, pour it into the bottle and then operate the washers until the jets are again spraying (ie the system is now fully 'primed' with Milton). Leave the system primed with Milton for 20-30 mins (whilst it does its stuff), then keep spraying until the system is empty again. Then refill with your normal screenwash fluid. Milton will kill any bacteria and mould lurking in your pipework and will not harm your screen, seals or paintwork in any way - remember it's used to sterilise baby bottles and they are then reused without rinsing the Milton out! HTH
  23. Unless Simbo speaks Finnish , then his online translator is a lot more pointed than mine. My little freebie gem produced this: "Sniff ****. Glorious vitun amusing mä laugh vitun considerably as possibly et say aught alien banning" Perhaps it knew what the untranslated words were but declined to translate? I'm 'saying aught'! All I can say to that is that January and February must be the height of the glorious Finnish summer, 'cos those are the months I was last there and most of the Finns seemed to be drunk most of the time! Oh and most Finnish taxidrivers seemed to think they were the next Stig Blomqvist judging by the way they took city-centre corners on ice/snow covered tarmac!
  24. And presumably if it was possible to shut the bonnet properly someone would have done so for the 'beauty pix'! Just out of interest ... can anyone identify the largish dark coloured car pictured behind the VRS in pix #2 and #3. I can't place it at all!
  25. Similar thing happened to me in my MkI Octy several years ago (maybe eight or so?) ... I'd just done a very rapid three point turn on a fairly busy road in Islington and found myself with no reverse and, if I remember correctly, only 3rd and 5th. The guy from Green Flag correctly identified a broken linkage arm (immediately at the point where the rod enters the gearbox). He rang a few local VW dealers, but none had the part (which was priced at about £90 back then) in stock. He offerred to 'jerry rig' a new connection just to get me home if that was what I wanted (alternative was to wait for their tow/lift truck to take me and the car home - about 50 miles or so). I agreed and he managed to make a new linkage just with a longish bolt and a few nuts - that's what I call a real mechanic! The temporary fix was still in place and working when I sold the car in March! (Yes, I was honest and pointed it out to the new owner!)
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