Peterj222

Agreed, I had this on a previous Fabia it was just like a petrol engine misfiring on gentle acceleration, on full power it was fine and it didnt throw up any faults at all. Changed it and it never did it again.

I had this same problem and a brand new bottom hose from Skoda (Over £100) did NOT fix the problem for long. I think the plastic on the intercooler wears. Ended up taking the intercooler off and drilling four tiny holes at 90 degree angles around the connection and using four short self tappers (just long enough to go through the first layer of ally on the connector) A bead of Loctite 5910 around the seal and its never played up again. Cost Pennies ......The other option (New intercooler, connectors, seals clips) just seemed like throwing money away.

Sent you a PM mate

Any idea of the year they were made (DOT)

Thats a very good point!! What I should have explained was that when I did mine (At that time could find no comprehensive guides on here) I unbolted the carrier as it was an old 51 plate TDI Elegance and removed the bottom half of the seal and re-sealed just that half as I didnt think the water could go up and leak from the top. If it needed to come off again a stanley blade would soon go round the bottom half of it, if it would not prise off from the top. If it had been riveted I would have thought twice and tried to bodge it as I cant remember anyone mentioning doing it with plumbers gold back in those days.

Yeah its not great fun!! Its a job for when the suns out if youve not got a big garage!!

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/226475-fabia-door-carrier-seal-repair-illustrated/ Although to do it properly you really need to remove the carrier and all the old seal and then just use a decent bathroom sealant round it but depending what year your car is it will probably be riveted on all the way round which makes it a pain in the a***! I did mine properly over 5 years ago and its still watertight (I know this cos I sold the car to brother-in-law and hes not moaned yet!!)

Without going out in the dark and looking I seem to remember the nut has like a built in washer / shoulder but that wouldnt stop grease its the cap that pops on the end that does that maybe they lost the cap or you never had one??

I am guessing this is it on Ebay (Although still doesnt answer your questions!)http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Octavia-Elegance-Estate-1-6CR-TDi-127-000-miles-1-owner-VGC-/291616324412?hash=item43e5affb3c:g:MnsAAOSwvt1WR0vi

To be honest I never realised that the aircon stayed off in Econ mode (maybe I should heve read the book) and I only found out by accident that if you hold the fan down button in for long enough the display reads "off" and everything seems to stop. On the plus side the electric sunroof works a treat so until I can be bothered to sort it out I will just be opening that, Might even get a bit of a tan on the old boat race...lol

Thats made me slightly happier!!!....Cheers

I had something very similar on a Transit van....turned out the Earth from the battery to the Engine (big thick one to one of the starter motor bolts) had come loose.....worth checking major Earth cables???

yeah I accept that and especially in this heat but I can live without the aircon for the time being just want to know if the whole pulley is likely to come off if I keep driving it as I have a few miles coming up in the next week??

Seems to have been one of those weeks!! .....It was slightly hot today!! ...I usually turn the climate control off in my 02 Elegance TDI but as today was slightly hotter than normal I switched it back on, after about a mile (Of blowing out nice cold air) it started blowing out warm so I thought thats not right so switched it off ....then I get an almighty burning smell coming into the car and the the outside temp display goes from 35 to 40 degrees??? I thought the thing was on fire lol ...anyway stopped could see no flames but smell under bonnet was like burnt brakes / clutch drove home checked HVAC with vcds for faults....Nothing ...jacked up front, air con compressor spins by hand (Inner pulley) but when engine started and climate turned on does not spin so I am suspecting the clutch (Or electrical switching to the clutch) has burned out? So my question is:.... does anyone know these clutch assemblys and how they go together and if I carry on driving with the climate turned off is anything likely to come apart or is the inner pulley competely seperate to the outer pulley which the aux drive belt drives???....just to add fans working ok too

I will PM you.

Is the exhaust system standard? If so what sort of condition is it in?

Just in case you havent done this yet I would like to add a bit of advice to Richs instructions that may save you a couple of hours!!....When removing the bottom arm DO NOT attempt to undo the nut on top of the balljoint as there is not enough clearance to get it off with the drive shaft in place. Undo the three small blolts that hold the arm to the bottom ball joint BUT give them a good squirt up with decent penertrating fluid about an hour before you start as they often get rusted in because all they screw into are encapsulated nuts on a thin plate and when they shear off of the plate they are a pain as spanners wont go on them!!

This is the same man that forgot one of his kids and left them in the pub up the road from me 2 or three years back!! http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-18391663

100% I would change them you could see the difference between the ones that came out and the new ones, wish I had taken a photo now they had shrunk a lot!!

Definatley AD on the end of the part number on my 07' plate VRS and as far as I am aware it has not been superceeded by a new part number as the new rad from VW had the excact same number.

You had a right result there, my nearest TPS is right over at Milton Keynes but for a saving like that I would have gone over there...did they have it in stock or did they have to order it in though?? BTW part number for the o rings is N90765301 and obviously you need 2 of!!

Mine was doing that most mornings from cold and I would agree with you 100% it sounds like the dmf however since changing the dog bone to a powerflex red one it has not done it once?? I still reckon it was the dmf BUT its been quiet for a couple of months now...co-incidence? I just dont know??

Push the rocker button on the end of the windscreen wiper (Right hand) stalk to switch out of trip computer dispaly!!! (With ignition turned on)

it was £115 +vat and 73p each for the 2 o' ring seals I am sure you could get it cheaper from TPS or an online dealer but soon as I already had the old one out and the other half needed it for work I went for the quick option. Its all done and fitted with no messing about, also with the front end off the car its an absoloute doddle to whip the intercooler off and give it a clean out as they tend to accumulate dirty engine oil in the bottom of them over time.

Thanks for the replies. I took my old rad out and went down to ECP. The EIS one that their website says fits the car is NOT a perfect fit, it is about 1cm less wide (from side to side), it would fit the car but would leave a bit of travel from side to side (Not ideal) also the holes for the fan cowling do not line up so you would have to re-drill new holes on the fan cowling and also cut a lump out of it as it would foul the fan switch!!! This was done without taking it out of the box so I have no idea if the other side (Holes for the scews that hold the aircon radiator) is the same? So with the weather about to change for the worse I bit the bullet and went down to the VW garage round the corner and bought the proper one. Interestingly when I googled the part number (6Q0 121 253 AD) it seems that this is specific for the Fabia VRS and the the Polo GTI 1.8 turbo petrol only so I am wondering if it has more cooling cabability than the standard / cheaper rads??