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Rhoobarb

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Everything posted by Rhoobarb

  1. Any possibility they could be the wrong way round? if you had them both done at the same time, and there was a mixup..... My boss had that after a trainee was given the job, he would have taken it in sooner but the wheel fell off lol, He was not pleased
  2. What about the VRS LE?, as personally I think the new facelift octys dont look as nice :S Those headlights dont suit it. It depends if you want a badge or value for money... And what you like the best and what suits you the best is the most important point, not what anyone else likes. IMO The A4 is a nice car, but I think the value goes to the octy. Ive never been a badge person, Ive always been more about understated cars, cars that surprise people, hence my old Volvo 850 and now the OctyVRS. People are surprised by them, and that gives me a bigger smile than I would get from a 'oh, its another audi/bmw/merc' reaction. There are so many Audi badges around now they dont have that surprising quality anymore, a bit like BMWs were a few years ago. And people are starting to hate Audis like they hate Beemers (not letting them out, cutting them up, etc) Just my opinion tho.
  3. I found out when I was trying sitting in the back and leaned forward put my hand on the rest and it slid forward, thought Id broke it lol. Ive asked about the aux socket before, but it seems that it is only 2007+ cars that have it :thumbdwn: Anyone know what the pull handle inside the jumbo box is for?, it just seems to lift up half an inch and thats it, doesnt seem to do anything. And as for the manual, its not the most user friendly of things, I only found out what the button below the drivers seat belt mount did because of Briskoda:thumbup:
  4. Rhoobarb

    Win

    Done.... Ta very much
  5. I had to think about it when I first read about it:read:
  6. Theres a small domed rubber stopper which didnt seem to be adjustable, and 2 small rubber 'plates', one on the boot lid, one on the car body. They seem to be adjustable and might do the trick but are torx style bolts, so ill have to hunt my set out to see if it does anything Thanks for the info and pointers
  7. Ive just noticed that the boot lid is not flush with the lights on the drivers side. It sticks out (not up) 3-4mm as opposed to the passenger side which is fine. Theres no obvious damage to the car and it closes and opens fine with no rubbing or scraping noises that I can hear. I was just wondering what would have caused it and if it was adjustable?:confused:
  8. I would have loved one of the limited edition 9000 carlssons, they were a nice car for the time, but time has had its way and now very hard to find one, let alone one in decent condition
  9. Handy if you know someone with a spare set of keys and a mobile. Ive not tried it myself but apparently it works. Worth a test maybe?
  10. Not really, if they can hit your mirror theyre too close as it is, where my old car used to park it was a simple equation to work out, if you didnt fold in your mirror, the next morning there was a good chance you could wake up without one. :thumbdwn: The mirrors being left out made no difference to how close people will try to get. If you go down a thin street with lots of parked cars you will prob find all the mirrors in. And now that my mirrors are full electric with indicators as well, I dont fancy paying for a new one every time someone is careless
  11. I agree that its not just chavs, there just seems to be a general lack of driving skills (and common sense) in a lot of people. You can get just the same type of idiot drivers who drive Porsches, Beemers and Audis as you do Corsas, Clios and Saxos. I certainly don't claim to be the masterful driver and I do make silly mistakes on the odd occasion, I think we all do. But at least if I **** up, I apologise rather than shouting abuse and getting angry with the world. Yesterday I had a woman in little Micra overtake me on a 40 dual carriageway, then pull right in front and slow down to 30 to go through a speed camera. Pointless exercise.
  12. I would love them, more so that cars don't clip it as much when going past when parked on the road, as they so frequently seem to do for me recently :( I know the difference between folded and not can only be an inch or two, but that inch or two could mean the difference of a mirror or not still on your car lol.
  13. Are you getting hissing when the stereo isnt plugged in??
  14. if it has snapped it would be near the HU as those are the wires youve moved, it would be a simple case of cut, strip and terminal blocks/crimps then wrap it up in tape. A snapped wire is very unlikely but possible so I wouldnt worry too much just yet, but keep it in mind before replacing parts. If your thinking of investigating this yourself a multimeter is a must. It will allow you to check the voltages, fuses and wire circuits.
  15. Petrol VRS, and on 'sensible' runs can get 40-42mpg, highest is 48, (prb with a good wind behind me lol), even on unsensible runs can get 35-38mpg, around town averages 25-30 for me. Was a 100% volvo fan and wanted a t5 or an R car from the swedes, till I got the VRS now am firmly on Skodas side . Would recmnd a test drive, some people think they are a bit stiff on the suspension.
  16. Unfortunately Ive never used VAG-COM, and couldnt really comment, but I would hazard a guess that it might tell you if there is an electrical fault somewhere that is linked to your problem. As its the first time the stereo has been taken out in 7-8 years, theres always the possibility that because the wires haven't had much movement, one of the wires has become a little brittle and snapped inside the insulation. Hope this helps a little.
  17. Found this on a VW forum, VWvortex Forums: Navi "VSWITCH" function discovered and "NORM" function question Its about being able to force the MFD2 to have video in motion by applying +12V with a 5k6 resistor in serial to the VSwitch pin. Has anyone tried this and what sort of results did you get? Many Thanks
  18. Im not sure of the wiring of the Mk1, but generally in any car with this problem, if you can do any of this it may help narrow it down, you need a multimeter. When working on it, disconnect the battery. Only reconnect to test one thing at a time. I would make sure the HU connector(s) dont have the following; - Any loose wires - Too much bare metal or strands showing - Frayed, Split or snapped wiring. I would then check the direct positive and ignition positive for any voltage at the HU plug. Check ALL the fuses not just the one linked to the HU. Check as much of the wiring and connectors from the fuse box to stereo as well, especially if the car has had any previous ICE alterations. With the wad of wiring behind head units its easy to wire it wrong or for wires to wiggle loose from connectors and short circuit when inserting and removing HU's. If voltage is present try connecting the radio that didnt spark when taken out (you can prob rule out that as faulty.) without the speakers and other peripherals connected. Has the car had any stereo modifications that you know of? Is this the first time the stereo has been out? Hope this helps
  19. TBH The lead seems like it is the key, cause or not its definately a clue to the problem, there is no noise without it, whether the cable is at fault itself or causing a short circuit within the HU. You put that the cable is standard, is that standard WITH the head unit or standard bought in shops? The more information we have the better to help you, Its hard to help when all we know is what car you have The lead *may* be irrelevant in this case, but you didnt state one way or the other for it to be eliminated from the cause, just that you thought it wasnt the problem. Leads can and do cause problems, even when there's nothing connected to the other end. As I stated before, if its expecting a lead wired a certain way and gets a lead wired a different way it can cause issues the same as you are experiencing, having learnt this the hard way. Sometimes the end cause can be so obscure to the problem, and finding these causes means eliminating everything that it isnt, as much as possible :slant:. I think we need more info on what you have. What is the exact setup you have (HU, Accessories, etc) and what connectors does the HU and leads have?
  20. Is it the lead that came with the unit? What type of Ipod are you using. Some leads and their units are wired slightly differently just to annoy us methinks. This is common on 3 x phono to 3 pole 3.5mm jack cables used for multimedia/camcorders/iPODS/etc, Apple even change the configuration of their wiring for these cables between the Video and the Classic. So possibly your HU is expecting a non standard wired lead, or vice versa? I had the same problem connecting my ipod to my stereo using my camcorder lead, but it worked fine with my multimedia player lead. Else it sounds like a ground or short circuit somewhere What sort of connectors does this lead have?
  21. I take it you didnt think youd get that much 'air'? Been in an old BMW 316 (passenger, not driving) hitting a single lane width bridge like that, all wheels off the ground only to realize there was a car starting up the other side. Clipped mirrors and brown pants time. The wheels werent probably as off the ground as yours, I think I wouldnt be typing this if they had :S
  22. Just do what everyone else does, try all the comparison sites, then try the sites that dont sign up to be on comparison sites. Then try the companies in the back of boy racer mags, Max Power, etc. who specifically deal with lads of your age, being a stock car they may offer you cheaper. Being 17 its going to be a hefty price for anything over 1.1 I would say.
  23. Does the hum noise change if the car is on/off or different when accelerating? Is it a DIY jobby or is it pro fitted? Are you trying to plug the lead in directly into the head unit or via an extenion/connector loom/etc?
  24. Most pdas that ive seen use the 2.5mm jack, a 2.5 to 3.5mm jack is easy to find on ebay, etc. Maybe there is a docking station that will charge and provide audio out with cables hidden out the back? I previously used a mda pda phone as part of my ice setup, but wires were a problem, just never got round to finding a decent docking station Something like this? Slightly modded for audio? Fitted flush to dash/armrest/ashtray/wherever? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-Charger-Cradle-Dock-for-HP-IPAQ-200-210-211-212-214_W0QQitemZ380075831511QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Computing_LaptopAccessories_RL?hash=item380075831511&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318 Also, check the spec for your pda, just because the newer cards are 64GB doesnt mean your PDA supports them
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