MoggyTech

Don't rule out brake pad slap if i'ts more of a dull click, rather than a knocking sounds. Also spray the part of the wishbone where is goes into the console bush with white PTFE grease. No need to dismantle anything, just spray the joint.

Stick with what is known to work. Sikaflex, roof and gutter sealant, Unibond 3 in 1 sealant all good. Silicon sealant, useless, Dum Dum useless.

Caked in gunge at 60k for sure, not worth cleaning cos if the vacuum diaphragm isn't leaking now, it soon will be. Any signs of oil from the small breather hole below the bit that looks like a flying saucer, means the valve is goosed. Don't fit a pattern Chinese part, they fail after a few months, fit OEM, worth the extra dosh.

EGR problem won't cause any damage, so safe to drive till you get it fixed. It will most likely need a new EGR valve, but could also be the vacuum control box on the inner wing drivers side. Possibly even a perished vacuum hose from the vacuum control box to the EGR valve.

Looks like the ABS controller is faulty, prepare for wallet shock.

Count me in...

:rofl:

Sounds normal to me, mine has always gone out within a couple of seconds, even when it's really cold outside. The white/grey smoke will simply be condensation inside the exhaust burning off. Relay is on the right hand side of the battery box.

Check battery and battery earth cable first. If they are OK, looks like ABS control unit faulty or wiring to the control unit.

RIP Andrew

Airflow is left to right looking from passenger seat.

Console bushes, or drop links, or ARB bushes. In that order.

+3 can't see video, it's a GIF image for me, not a video link (Firefox)

Battery tray out for access, repair broken wire using bridging wire. All in say an hour, so about £50. DIY it costs about 50p

Sounds like a Prescot and dumb secretary joke.

That stuff makes me fart like hurricane Katrina

Just covering their bases and doing it by the book. Expect to be charged for new clutch kit, which should really be changed along with the DMF while the gearbox is out.

Yup, disconnect hose from rocker cover to inlet, plug inlet where the original hose was fitted, run new hose from rocker cover into a vented oil catch tank, and no more blow by gases get back into the engine. So no more gunge in the EGR or inlet manifold.

One solution is to have a custom EGR delete made, that will accept the throttle body being bolted back onto it. The EML can then be mapped out by a tuner as part of a remap. I still think it is better to leave the EGR alone, and do the elephant hose mod, to remove the oil vapor from the equation, and turn down EGR as low as possible with VCDS. That way you just get dry soot, and combustion temps will stay normal.

Sort out the ABS sensor and the speedo will work correctly.

If only. The BLT engine uses an EGR vacuum operated, but also a separate throttle body/ASV that is controlled by the ECU electronically.

Measure battery voltage first thing in the morning before starting the car. If less than 12.5 volts replace battery.

Simple things first, all tyres same profile and same make on an axle, all at correct pressures. Rear beam axle, not bent due to jacking on axle cross beam. Console housing to subframe, and subframe to chassis alignment correct. Console bushes in good condition. Anti roll bar bushes and drop links OK. Less obvious. Broken spring on drivers side. Can be hard to spot if it breaks near the top at the upper mount bearing. Accident damage, resulting in bent chassis rails.

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Safe to drive, but get it scanned ASAP as per the handbook. There is always the potential to cause engine damage if driven for too long with the EML on. Safe bet it's going to be an EGR fault.