smileonimpact

A bad connection would increase resistance, therefore reducing current in the circuit. I=V/R I- current V- volts R- resistance Double resistance = half the current

I very much doubt they are wired in series, parallel maybe.

Very clever way of doing it, I'll give you that one.

Perhaps you could get your mate to measure the current drain continuously while fuses are pulled (then refitted) one at a time until at some point you will hopefully remove the fuse of the item that is giving you the problem, this also makes the assumption that the offending item is fed via a fuse.

I believe the different specs for different manufacturers boils down to whatever deal the car manufacturers strike up with the oil company, if you won't sell me your oil cheap I will swap to a different supplier and allow them to put "the new VW spec" on their product and freeze you out of the market. The only other factor is an oil company that doesn't supply oem, Let's say Mobil1 produces oil to VW spec and then pays vw an annual premium to use the "meets VW 507" I think castrol used to supply VW, but they fell out and VW switched to shell. castrol lost sales to VW manufacturing plants and all official dealers. Quite a loss of trade.

I had a borgwarner fitted as replacement 5 months ago, no problem with it.

I have exactly the same problem, has happened directly after having the turbo replaced, just need to get it booked in to be sorted.

Hopefully I've attached a picture of the plate from my 2009 vrs cr170 Ltd edition octavia.

One tip for you, do not put the sidelight holder back into the headlight until after you have plugged the headlight in and confirmed that the sidelights work correctly, or you may just find yourself going through the ridiculous removal procedure needlessly for a second time.

I have my old oem turbo kicking around removed from 2009 cr170, replaced due to sticking vanes giving underboost p0299, haven't had a chance to clean it up, I am open to offers for it as is. Item is located in Wiltshire.

I started getting P0299 (underboost) and limp mode, this started about 10 days before I was due to move to the opposite end of the country for a new job. Time was very restricted so I decided to get a new turbo fitted, as the surcharge on it was only £20 I have kept the old one as well. It's only in need of a good clean and should work just fine. The car was on 64k when it went.

Had the turbo replaced 2 months ago on my 2009 cr170, it was replaced by a borg warner, couldn't give exact details now, but could find out for you if no-one else gives you an answer.

Dialynx are highly regarded, I haven't used them personally but a friend who does use them swears by them. Pushed his audi to 500bhp+

Have just had this come up on my cr170. Going to run a tank of forte turbo cleaner through before more drastic measures are taken.

Pulling a vacuum on the system is vital, it is done to remove any moisture trapped in the system whilst it was open to atmosphere. By reducing the pressure you alter the temperature that water boils at, by pulling a sufficient vacuum water will boil at room temperature and be removed as steam. Any moisture that is not removed could potentially freeze as a pellet of ice and create a blockage in the system.

It sounds like a relay is remaining energised (and supplying power to something) after the key is removed, by disconnecting the battery you guarantee the relay is de-energised and the resulting drop in current until you turn the ignition key again. Next time you disconnect the battery listen for any relays dropping out, if possible see if any relays are warm to touch (after the car has sat for a while and before you disconnect the battery) pull the relays out then refit them one at a time while measuring the current drain to see if the 5amp drain drops off. Hope this makes sense.

Your statement would indicate that if you drive the car sensibly until the stat is open your problem will be solved, unless the 90 degree stat isn't opening fully and restricting the flow, a standard stat will cure that problem.

Whilst finding the fault is the immediate problem, if you need a short term solution you could fit a battery isolator switch in the negative battery cable, this will buy you time until you can organise professional help. http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/bulbs-wiper-blades-batteries/car-battery-chargers/halfords-battery-isolator-switch-hef390 Just remember to switch it off when you park the car up overnight.

If you go to the "Group buys" section you will find a thread on there by actionman39,NEW REMOTE/KEY GROUP BUY! He does this for a living and has very competitive rates.

I don't know buddy, but it's a fairly common fault and a very cheap fix. If it doesn't work at least you have ruled it out.

Assuming your car is a tdi as per your profile, if you look on eBay UK and search for item number 171695077361 you might just find the answer to your problem.

It could be the brake light switch, seems to be a common fault, try searching on here for it.

Disc 1 Slipknot Disc 2 Metallica Disc 3 More metallica Disc 4 AC/DC Haven't found a use for the other 2 disc slots as yet...

2.2 Kva is 1.76 kilowatts which works out at 7.65 amps @ 230v To convert Kva to Kw divide by 5 then multiply answer by 4. As your polisher is only 0.5kw or 2.17 amps you should have plenty to spare.

I would switch dealer, as the skoda fixed price service includes "Remove wheels and check brakes" Their words, not mine. http://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/service-and-maintenance/national-pricing/servicing