smileonimpact

Turning my phone holder horizontal works perfectly. Just need to address the power supply issue, stupid position of cig lighter!

I'm surprised to not find any mention of people using their smartphone as a dash cam. Considering it has camera, gps, accelerometers pretty much everything required for a dash cam. I have had a search and found an app for Android called AG (search for dash cam) I've been giving it a try and it seems to tick all the boxes. Any thoughts?

Make sure the old seal has been removed, sometimes they can stick, you think they came off but didn't and two seals won't seal, if you know what i mean.

Just checked on ecp, the set of wipers have been reduced to £16-50. A good price but still not as good as getting them through Amazon.

Esay way to check is to put your reg number in on the euro car parts website then search for wipers and see which it lists for your car.

Just incase anyone needs to replace their flat wipers, I found genuine valeo front wiper set for £10.99 and free delivery. Just search on Amazon for VM310 and bingo, sold by euro car parts (they are nearly £30 if you go to euro car parts shop to buy them) They arrived 2 days after ordering. The rear wiper (VM252) is also on there for £4.99.

Joeninho, I recently asked the exact same question here but alas the best answer I got wss to ask ross tech support. But here is the results from the scan that I done so you have something to compare with. I haven't changed the dpf or any sensors. 16:30:55 Group 108: Diesel Particle Filter 39 ml Particle Filter Oil Ash Volume 9.6 Particle Filter Carbon Mass (spec.) 9.0 Particle Filter Carbon Mass (act.)

At least the dealer has been honest with you and got you the result you were after.

Whilst it might not be the answer you are looking for but skoda have fixed price repairs and the price to do a clutch is £499 so why they are quoting £1200 seems bizarre. http://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/service-and-maintenance/national-pricing/maintenance

Yes, it is a cr and scan was done with latest version of vcds, also maybe of note that the dpf info was in group 108.

Only looked at figures so that if and when I get problems i have some history to compare with. But as you pointed out I also have no idea whether the figures relate to percent or grams or what.

Done a scan on the dpf but I'm unsure of how to interpret the results. Any help offered is more than welcome. Address 01: Engine (03L 906 022 GB) 16:30:55 Group 108: Diesel Particle Filter 39 ml Particle Filter Oil Ash Volume 9.6 Particle Filter Carbon Mass (spec.) 9.0 Particle Filter Carbon Mass (act.) Thanks.

Assuming they still use the electro magnetic clutch system.

If the electro magnetic clutch has no power, the compressor will not run and therefore cannot do any damage.

Alternator pulley on its way maybe?

I wired up some towbar electrics on a new mini cooper s, got a bit stuck on the fact that the stop and tail light only had one lamp with only one filament!, after much headscratching and lots of testing it dawned on me that the newer mini's stop/tail light only has 6 volts applied to it for tail light and this voltage is increased to 12V when the brake pedal is pushed, why would they do that you ask? a single filament lamp is cheaper than a twin filament, only need to run one +ve wire to the lamp thus saving on wire, money saved means more profit, also means normal towbar electrics won't work properly! you need a special box o' tricks to keep the ecu happy.

Just a quick thought for you, Don't connect the negative jump lead directly to your flat battery, instead connect it to a good earth somewhere in the engine compartment, preferably the engine. I have tried to jump start a few cars that would only start if jumped like this, one possible reason being a high resistance earth between battery and chassis, chassis and engine. It may even be possible that your engine has lost its earth and something else (i'm open to suggestions) is finding an earth return through your fans, thus making them run all the time albeit slowly as they would be in series with the said something else, maybe even starter motor! If you know anyone with a multimeter get them to measure the resistance from the disconnected negative clamp at your battery to the metal of the engine, it should be a very low reading i.e 0.2 ohms ish, anything over 1ohm would probably start to cause issues due to voltage drop across the resistance. hope that helps.

If the starter motor is cranking the engine then imho it is doing its job, if the engine fails to fire thats a different problem altogether, main culprits likely to be a fuel problem, a duff sensor or possibly immobliser playing up, I really wouldn't consider the starter motor at all, problems with starter motor are generally solid clunk = flat battery or pinion jammed in flywheel, wizzing round but not cranking the engine = pinion fialure or baldly worn teeth.

Its very typical with headlights, tail lights etc.. due to them being switched on for equal amounts of time and having roughly the same expected life. As for indicators they are more likely to go front/rear in a similar time. Left and right blowing at the same time is pure coincidence.

Castrol Edge 5W30 is currently on offer at large asda stores, £30 for 4L or £10 for 1L bottles.

I had to remove mine to change the alternator for the second time in 8 months, (both times it was the pulley) I found access easier when I removed the power stearing pump, its a bit fiddely but once you undo the 3 allen bolts that hold the pulley to the pump, the pump mounting bolts come out easy enough. A bit of leverage to shift the pump from its location and you then get easy access to the aux belt tensioner.

Hi there, Just to keep the maths simple (for my benefit) if your battery was rated at 50 ampere hour it should deliver 50 Amps for 1 hour or 5 Amps for 10 hours or 0.5 Amps for 100 hours, so it is conceivable that a drain of 0.5A will discharge your battery within 4 days, though its likely your battery is rated around 70 ampere hours and will last a little bit longer but not much. Possibly the fastest way to find the culprit is to measure the drain on your battery in the same way you have already done, and whilst doing this pull the fuses one by one until you notice the drain drop significantly. Find out which circuit the fuse controls and you will be somewhere close to the problem. It could well be a duff battery, but when you get a dead cell it tends to show up as one day it starts fine the next the battery is flat and even when recharged it will continue to be totally unreliable. Hope that gives you some help with identifying the fault.

I would try this one here Will be considerably cheaper than the professional kit.

Hi, Good luck with your case. I've looked through the haynes manual and the reverse parking sensors aren't on the diagram at all so can't help you there unless someone else out there has a decent wiring diagram that they can post here or pm me with (I am an electrician and fairly good with electrical diagrams). Failing that I'll pull the fuse for my reverse lights and see if the park sensors still work but can't do this until sunday. Let me know if thats any help to you. geoff

Just a quick note for anyone doing this, it's worth wearing a rubber glove or similar when handling the battery because the gap between the negative and positive metal sides is very small and the natural oils on your skin may bridge this gap and cause the battery to discharge prematurely.