mrgf

I am totally sure Ads230's info is correct but on traditional set-ups (No hill hold) This will indicate that the handbrake mechanism has jammed or stuck temporarily... The usual cause for this is sticking brakes, due to corrosion which in turn is caused by winter road salt.weather and/or carwash/jet washing the area and then not drying it out. The easiest way to dry it out is to drive a bit after any wash and also, with a little bit of braking either by foot or even by handbrake so as to heat and dry the parts that would jam up. Regular lubing of brake components will also help prevent this. (Not pads and discs, shoes and drums surfaces it must be noted)! I add this as other may see your post and have sticking brakes without the hill hold. As I say, I think your issue is not an issue and was addressed earlier.😀

I would deffo think of replacing the O-rings as it can only help. I am unsure without a look, about the gap there and a gasket. There may be a gasket further in and/or where you arrowed may be water channels, to allow water to drain down the inner tailgate area and under the bumper, to the floor. Really, its just a case of not letting damp/wet get to the bulbs or the wiring as this may cause errors. You may well be familiar with seeing other vehicles as they brake/signal etc, have the rear lights look like Christmas tree lights, with brakes/tails flashing and signals dimming or all funny things like that. This is usually caused by the wires or electronic boards becoming corroded and shorting across each other! The other situation is that the bulbs will keep blowing and that too, is a common sight as you follow traffic. Illegal, potentially dangerous and so many owners will only do a repair when they have the MOT imminent!

Not strictly true, J.R. Mine was collected, although drivable with a dented door and broken mirror, when they did the assessment, I was able to either accept the offer in full, losing ownership or keep the car, with around £300 less for scrappage value. (We all know you can't even get a decent engine for that)! I wanted it back and although that was no problem, I then had to go to them and drive it back myself! They said they were not insured to drive it back, despite them driving it away and despite me saying I am a driving instructor and anyone can drive, with my permission. They had no gain to be made so did not want to comply, the five knuckle shufflers! In Plymnick's case, he will almost certainly need to arrange his own recovery back to his address, if that same situation arises. He could keep the scrap and dismantle it for spares, I guess. My guess is the damage IS too much to be economical, though. I recon he should hold out for £2500.

I remember you posting when you first had it! WTF can't people sip a beer at home or get a professional to take them home for the price of an additional two beers, which clearly they had well more over the limit of? That looked like a well-looked after car and being a diesel, it won't surprise my if the insurance people assess it well under its actual worth! In my experience, I would suggest you clean it before they come, hoover, wash, etc making it look as pristine as possible prior to the accident as I am really sure they knock down every little flaw they can, in order to suggest it it worth less. It will almost certainly be the third parties insurer doing this as they want to lower any payment and I recon they are under guidelines to scrap diesels or reduce their values in order to reduce them on the road bit, by bit! The better the wreck looks, the higher the opinion of the car will be. I had mine quite dirty as it was parked up for a air few weeks, and had an old vinyl roof sticker, to protect the paintwork from a roof box but I think they looked at that as damaged paint and not protection (?) along with scratched wheels, etc that are really quite simple to renovate or even swap. When it came to having a new battery, an engine with 50,000 miles less then the clock stated, genuine arm rest, many dealer extras, they were overlooked with a statement of they don't add anything after a cession period of time and the engine no longer ad a warranty on it so the rest of the car had travelled that distance... They stab your back with the bad things and don't even offer a plaster, when you point out the good things. This was despite my argument that the lower mileage engine and all the extras, made the car more desirable when offered for sale and harder to replace, like-for-like, which is what is supposed to be offered. That said, they well over estimated the cost of repair so when they paid me the (low-ish) value, I had it fixed and had the wheels painted along with a few small dints and it looked better afterward and I made a few quid! (I only had a dented passenger door and broken mirror, which they then said wrote the car off).

You may have just soaked the terminals and made the car think it had blown bulbs... Take a look at the bulbs inside the light and a closer look at the little rubber O-rings that go on each bulb holder. They often become brittle and crack or petrify or even become so decomposed that they fall off altogether. (Everyone now shout... "They fall off") You can quite cheaply buy some rubber O-rings from somewhere like Halfords, t'internet, etc, often in a little packet but more economically by a box of assorted sizes. Go round all the bulbs and fit the most appropriate sized one to the relevant holder. Do this to all the bulbs if you have enough as its worth the trouble as if one is rotten, the rest will most likely be, too! Additionally, check the seal around the whole light lens unit for water ingress as it will still get in and hit the wiring, even if it can't get to the bulbs. Be sure when fighting the unit, to install it securely and tighten it up enough help preb=vent leaks and from choking loose. The internal nut is best tightened by hand and not with a tool, even if you slipped a screwdriver in it to loosen so perhaps as you tighten, gently but firmly leap against the light lens (Not too much to risk cracking it), whilst finishing off the tightening. you will be amazed at just how much more you can safely tighten it with the extra pressure, without tools and without smashing the plastic. This may help prevent excessive water ingress but if you use either a car wash or pressure washer, don't be surprised if water eventually finds its way past any seals and to the bulbs!

...Bleeding nuisance!

Pavinjo, Seplchrave was suggesting that the OP should have spotted the number/code in the photo and the differing gas numbers... Hence a spot of sarcasm.. As with anything, if you now, you know! SkodaSteve88, Kwik-Fit offer gassing for around £50 and offer a deal where if it is less then 10% cooler, you don't pay. (If you trust them... Some do, many won't). Other a/c regas centres often say if the system leaks and/or they can't regas, they won't charge. Also, ATS (Multiple locations) Had a groupon offer, re-gas for £38.99, down from £60. I am unsure if its still available but worth a search and if no luck, worth phoning your local branch to see if they can match the deal or offer a better one then £60. They may match Kwok-Fit, for example. A little cheek can go a long way! Be sure they do a thorough job though and don't just "Top-up the gas you have. A full removal, leak test and regals will take around an hour or so.

The first one to suggest Michael Jackson's nose, wins a prize! Oh shoot, I already dun it!

ngabriel, if you have still to do the job, Haynes manual suggested method is to unclip the circular clip/frame that holds the gear gaiter to the console, then put your hand inside, to push the clip out from behind. The gaiter frame is fairly easy to prise up, just by using your fingertips.nails but again. be careful not to break it. I popped my clip off yesterday, just to try and it is easy enough to get access to the switch but I did not try to push the with out. Luca3, the same method should also allow access to the teo heater switches. I only have blanking covers there as I don't have heated seats (Boo) But the method should be the same.

Yeah, just a slightly different shape to the thumb area, I think. as long as the air bag fits, I am happy though as the air bags seem an arm and a leg to replace, even used and I am not sure I'd like a used one, anyway! Thanks, WillSmithy.

ngabriel, some items can be levered from either end, some start from one end, specifically and will be tougher if tried the wrong way. Just be gentle and if you use something plastic, its generally softer so won't scratch the surrounding surface. Otherwise its just "Suck it and see". I will try having a little look in the Haynes manual later, to see if there is a removal procedure but today is the hottest day of the year and I will be "Pretending" my garden is the beach, with my family!

Generally, its best to slightly loosen the nuts prior to lifting anyway. If you know they are stuck (Not been removed for ages) Try loosening a screw threads turn each nut, move the car a metre or sos, then jack up, axles stands/chocks, lets to finish. When refitting, smear the touching faces of the wheel and hub, with a little copper grease, making sure not to let it touch the brake pads and the discs braking area.

If you think stickers are sexy up in Spennymoor, you need to Spenny-moor time with a lady or two!

It can and will! From what I have seen, a stop/start system wants at least 70% of full battery charge, to function otherwise it bypasses and reverts to normal drive function. You should also have a higher rated (And more expensive) Battery, to accommodate!

It will be fine. Just make sure you give it a good clean connection so as to not shake loose, vibrate, etc.

Take care not to overcharge and boil the battery's fluid. As Murdockman suggested, a maintenance type charger is most likely the way to go. Old types often have no overload but maintenance ones can be left on semi-permanantly, off the car, of course.I hope you manage to resurrect it.

I noticed Fabis's seem to hate semi-worn batteries, let alone completely dead ones. A 1.9 is a big old lump of diesel engine, to try starting on a crap battery. My latest one came from an eBay seller and was the best deal I could find at that time. I am unsure if your version is the same type but the listing, if cut and pasted into eBay will show you what I had for just under £60 with a four year warranty. 1x PREMIUM 64Ah 640CCA 12v Type 027 Car Battery 4 Year Warranty - EA640

could you not take a look at the other sides light to see where the wire looks to be going?

I think I am correct in saying its a bumper off or at least part removed procedure so worth investigating the cable first! My initial thought when you mentioned a plug that is loose is that it may be one to the flappy-motor. That will perhaps stop mains coming on! BTW, that says view motion picture but I can't seem to get it do do anything, except enlarge!

His query is on the lost with the title please help me!! His avatar/username is Luca3, (I revised that on my last posting). I am thinking he still has to do it but I am quite sure you just gently lever the switch out, a bit at a time. Be gentle so as not to break any locating clips or to slip and scratch the plastic surround.

I think you will find they just prise out, with the help of two small screwdrivers or better still, plastic pry-tools, to gently lever them up. You should not need to remove the centre console.

I think you use the same method as Luca3 needed, with the seat heater switches... You gently prise it out with two small screwdrivers, one each side. Better still, try using plastic pry-tools as they will be less likely to damage anything. You might find it is dirty or a bulb is blown but I think they may be LED bulbs and its most likely easier to just swap the whole unit. be sure to get a Skoda one as a VW one will be red lights, Skoda are green.

The first one is a leather version of the soft plastic one I have, albeit mine does not have the little chrome trim. (WHYYY)? The second is not the one I was ;looking at but I will try to post it. Edit, this type, if MF is too tricky. Free postage Opens image gallery

Could be either but how cool does it go? When was it last re-gassed? Is it climatronic or climatic A/C? ( digital automatic, or manual). If you can put in as much information about the cars model, year etc it may help.