IbizaAlex

Ive not seen any guides on the belt change. If you are a mechanic then its fairly straight forward, just awkward as the lower cover is one piece. Have a look on Autodata, Elsawin, Erwin etc for a guide.

Its not an allen key, but a multi spline bit that you need for the inner part of the link. Make sure you also replace the nuts too as they are only a few quid. I always wire brush the visible threads on the old links to remove all the crust then soak with some WD or similar. The nuts can be a pain to remove.

I have never had any issues with MyTyres. I have always had fast email responses and always got through first time by phone. I even paid by phone last time I ordered, but it would have been easier not to as they didnt understand my english too well and her strong german accent threw me too! They must be making a killing on the winter tyres that have doubled in price! If you can then why not.

Sounds more like your HPFP is fooked.

Plug and play for me.

As I dont get many Jetta's coming through the door, I assumed they had the same rear floor pan as the golfs. Sorry for the mistake. Looks like you should have just asked APR is the first place!

Dont think so. The vRS has the spare wheel well in the way.

I agree, which is why I designed the kit without the heat shield / air block. I have run a large feed from the lower side grill upto the bottom of the filter too.

Ta for posting this up

I would steer away from Powerflex and have a look at Superpro. I have fitted both and the fit and quality of the the Superpro bushes exceeds the Powerflex by quite a way. If you change the wishbones then go for the TT versions with the camber adjustment. This allows better setup of the front end which the standard wishbones cant manage. I have a vRS with the TT wishbones with the WALK and superpro front bushes. My Altea has the standard arms with the WALK and superpro front bushes. Both handle great, with the vRS being the winner on cornering speed with the extra camber and better tyres.

Strange that, as you always adjust the rear first before doing the front. Tyres dont wear from having too much camber, but from the toe being wrong. The more camber you have, the more accurate the toe needs to be. I have run many cars at 3-4 degs negative camber and had no excessive inside wear. Om my vRS i run just over 2 degs at the front and just under 2 degs at the rear. The tyres are wearing evenly too

There is camber adjustment. They were just being fools. Its on the top arm that connects to the hub. Just get them to look harder and they will see it. What camber is it running?

Im going to have to butt in and say ive had 2 autotechs fail, and these were not from the dodgy early batch. On the other had ive had alot more KMD pumps fail and cause £1000's of damage. So stay well away from KMD's. Autotechs seem to be ok now, but i will never fit one of them on the KMD's again. APR all the way. Customer service from them of top unlike KMD etc. The main issue with autotech is the pumps are never available. I always have a least one brand new APR pump on the shelf.

A recent boot change on a seat altea i did took alot more than a tap. Even had a sweat on by the end. Sometimes they are just very tight.

I prefer the Helix. I can supply them. I have one coming in next week so I can get a few pics. Iirc the full kit with the single mass flywheel, 6 paddle or organic friction plate, the cover plate and a new release bearing/slave cylinder is around £900. I think they are better than the sachs and they have a custom built cover plate. Single mass helps with building the revs faster and wont fail like the dual mass units do. I should have one on my car soon too

Just sounds like the VNT is sticky from carbon build up. Very common. My Altea has the same issue. I just need to get around to fixing it. All it needs is cleaning out. Best way is to remove the turbo and remove the hotside to get to the vanes on the VNT. Best way to see if its sticky is to get the car on a ramp and push the VNT rod in and see how free it is. If its sticking or very stiff then its clogged up.

Sachs are prone to being stiff. Spec and Helix single mass conversions are not stiff at all and feel like standard, even with organic or paddle friction plates.

I got mine really cheap from a customer who was putting his Golf back to standard. He bought his direct from them, but I do keep them in stock. I have to charge you vat and the duty + delivery we get charged when they come over, but if you buy direct you may avoid the vat and duty. We charge £195 + vat for them. If you get one then its 30 mins to fit which comes to £30 + vat. There are very good instuctions on their site, but they are still a pain to set up perfectly.

But its soooooo nice:

As above. Most of the kits are the same, I thought it was just Neuspeed that supplied new brackets, but BSH too then. Rather than grinding off the nut, I drill the other side to remove the collar that holds the nut onto the bracket. This means you can use the nuts again and they lock into the mounts.

I fitted the TTS shifter to my other car which is a Seat Altea and I didnt really notice any difference. Maybe a little closer from 3rd to 4th. On the vRS I have a Sigma 6 short shifter which is sooooo much shorter front to back and side to side. The only problem with the sigma is the price. Around £200 more than the TTS, but I think its worth it.

The coolers between the fsi and tsi are the same iirc. You should only need the S3 cooler, the left and the right hoses if you are fitting to a K03 car. I keep the S3 coolers and hoses in stock too

I have a full decat blueflame turbo back on my vRS. It usually comes with a 6x4 oval tailpipe, but that wasnt to my taste so i made my own twin pipe up so its similar to the original. Sound is great, not loud or boomy, but gives a great note on power.

They have settled perfectly since I last saw the car. Really nice. Rear passenger door looks better too

Yep. But leave the alignment for a couple of weeks to let the car settle down. I have the eibachs. Nice drop and nice ride. Great for the money. Front shocks are a pain to get out. You can get a tool that spreads the hub apart. Vag part number 3424.