ryan-re

http://www.audioboffins.com/line-converter/

Removal is pretty easy. Make sure you have some spare door clips as you are likely to break some. Drivers side and passenger side are different but the idea is basically the same. 1. Remove the Lights in the bottom of the door cards. use a flat blade screwdriver or trim remover to pop them out. 2. With a flat blade screwdriver/trim remover pop off the tweeter cover. You will need to unplug them from the loom too. You will see a screw which needs removing. T15 iirc 3. Drivers side pull up on the handle/electric window adjuster trim. It will pop off but will need some pressure. This reviels 4 screws. T30 and T15 iirc 4. Bottom of each door card are 2 screws, T10 or T15. 5. Passenger side - To remove the cover of the handle there is a gap at the bottom of it. Put a flat blade screw driver in there and lever it up, this will slowly help to remove the cover. Behind the cover there will be 2 holes. There are T30 screws at the bottom of the holes. Once all the screws are removed (5 passenger side and 7 drivers side) you can then unclip the clips. Once all are unclipped pull the trim upwards and away from the door, you now need to unclip the cable attaching the door handle to the door trim on the back of the door card. There is a bit of plastic which you pull up to enable you to slide and remove the wire from the door trim. On the drivers side you also need to remove the red led from the loom, again, just a simple clip. It sounds a lot when typing it out but it only takes 5 minutes per door to remove. The speakers are held in with rivvets so you will need rivvets and a rivvet gun to fit the new speakers

Behind the bumper there are 2 air vents. Mine leaked through the edge of these vents

Bosch are good for oem replacement. Banner are good for the money, could get a running bull model for about £100. Above that you have hollywood batteries from www.audioboffins.com, xs power from blade ice and also oddesy batteries

surely you'd take it to a company who, if they cannot do it via odb ,would take the ecu out anyway?

Yea I know. Its been said 3 times now lol

On the face lift vrs the DRL's are used as side lights but the w5w bulbs were still fitted and not wired up. This is probably what you are seeing. Have fun explaining that one on your MOT. Lots of people have had to explain it to MOT testers who fail the cars for not having side lights

Its easy to tell if the car should have Xenons or not. The xenon fitment is VERY different to any halogen fitment. All you need to find from the oem lights is the cable which the bulb plugs into. This is a D1s xenon cable: https://factoryxenon.com/word/wp-content/uploads/imported/7/17/OEM-10-13-Buick-LaCrosse-Xenon-BALLAST-to-D1S-Light-Bulb-WIRE-WIRING-CABLE-CORD-321946135817-2.jpg H7 is a 2 prong plug.

Your battery is dead. Buy a new one

Pop off the roof liner (just held in by the screws holding the handles etc) This gives you access to the underside of the aerial and the cable length till it goes into the a pillar

The box says road legal

Dealer quoted me £800 last year

nope, not at all. The only time a "power cap" might be useful in car audio is when smoothing of current is required. Not to help with voltage drop. If you suffer from voltage drop there are a number of options. 1. Are you using the correct sized power cable? Too small cable from the battery to amps can cause drop as the current cant get through the cable. 2. Battery. If you are getting voltage drop you are draining more current than your alternator can produce so and uprated battery will help as you will have more stored energy to help the alternator. 3. Upgrading tb3. This is a term used for upgrading the cables attached to the battery under the bonnet. These include earth cables (battery, engine, alternator) and upgrading alternator positive 4. Adding a second or more batteries. If you are running big power then adding multiple batteries increaces your stored energy which you can use. 5. Upgrading the alternator. This gives you a larger buffer before your batteries are being used. 6. Something people have just started looking into (and I have just fitted) is using Supercaps or ultra caps. I have a bank of 6 3000 farad super caps wired in series to give me 500 farad of energy and a max charge voltage of 16.6v. I gained over 1v when running a full tilt which also meant my amp could put out more power to my sub.

There are new led bulbs made by philips called lumiled iirc and they only have 2 diodes but claim to be nearly as bridght as xenons. Expensive though and will have the same restrictions as xenons

My bad, so does the pre facelift and i only changed mine recently lol

You'd then need d2s bulbs, correct loom, suspension parts etc

Its a big job which is probably why. You need headlight units, ballasts, bulbs, Self leveling equipment (bits on the front and rear suspension), headlight washers, VDCS coding to setup headlight washers etc. Before you even think about labour i'd estimate the cost at £500+

You can fit what ever spec battery you want. The only limit is that it is for a 12v system.

Not really. Like i say, its mainly in the box design. Yes it would be easier to get loud with a bigger sub aslong as you have the correct box and power. Smaller subs can drop low if you put them in a low tuned box. But also bigger subs can be punchy if they have stiff spiders or are in a box designed with that in mind

Thats a common misconception there. 18" subs can be just as punchy as a 10 and visa-verca. Its all in the box.

Same here. No difference at all in my vrs no matter what I use be it tesco, morrisons, v power, etc etc

Not at all. Firstly, do you have DRL's? If you do I believe they are used the as "parking light" not the 501 bulb found in the headlight cluster so i'd check which bulb is actually out before you start taking the headlight out. To remove the headlight its a matter of removing the plastic nut and pulling the lever. Then it will slide forwards and allow you to remove the loom and take the unit out.

The rear speakers can be run aswell as a sub. The oem setup makes them enhance the midbass up front due to the positioning. Nothing todo with the low frequencies a sub plays

There is a lot of mis-information in this thread. If the sub is "bloating" the bottom end the system as a whole is setup wrong. The idea of the sub is to cover the lower frequencies which the midrange drivers in the doors cannot play. £500 for a sub, 4 channel amp (im guessing?), cabling and fitting is cheap. If its just the kit then for £500 you should get some decent mid range kit. An 8" sub in a correctly designed box will make for a nice addition and fill out the low end nicely. It wont be loud but should give a much more balanced sound overall. You might not know it but right now you will be missing quite a few frequencies.

You can go for an aftermarket unit or a skoda/vw unit. Depends what you want really. If you go aftermarket you will need to buy iso adaptor (about £40), possibly trim pannel and fitting kit. Both available from skoda. If you go oem make sure you look into what unit you get before hand due to the reasons mentioned above