ryan-re

The crossover is a filter but you still need to filter out the lows at the amp and headunit side. The crossover and hpf are not brick walls like I said. Right now you are relying on the crossover having a steep cut off at the lower end to stop sending sub frequencies to your midbass speaker's. You have 2 hpf to help prevent this. I'd use them if I were you

Remove the battery and behind you will find a huge gromit. This appears behind the glove box but high up so you have to do the pulling into the car by feel. I have 4 50mm2 cables running though mine so loads of room

With the setup you have you dont need to upgrade the battery or alternator. Its a pretty basic low power setup so no big upgrades are required. With your voltage dropping to 14.1v means your alt is barely noticing it. Anything above 12.6 (this will be around the battery float voltage) is power from the alternator. So your battery isnt much. As your power cable has a 60a fuse in it that means the total power your amps will take is 60a. 60x14.4 = 864watts @ 100% efficency. Your amps wont be that efficent, probably about 80% which is 691 watts. At 14.4v 691 watts is 48a. This will be at full power too which wont be all the time so this is why your 140a alternator isnt noticing your stereo making much of a difference. If you did have issues with voltage drop the first things to change are 1. Upgrade power and earth cables (MUST be the same size) 2. Carry out TB3 upgrade. This is upgrading battery earth, engine earths and alternator to battery cables) 3. Upgrading the battery 4. Finally, if none of that helps upgrading the alternator. But you need to be running a lot of power to need that

Setting the gain properly needs a specific bit of kit (osciliscope). With a 4v headunit you'd be looking to set it around the 10 o'clock position. The crossover settings are very user dependant. Id suggest raising it to 80hz so you get a crossover point. The speakers will play what you tell them. The fact their responce is 50-20khz doesnt mean they will play to 50hz. What they will play to depends how you set it up. Right now you have a full range signal going to the crossover then the crossover is doing its bit. Thats fine but you are relying on the crossover filtering all low frequencys and its likely some will slip through the net as its not a brick wall. Id set the HPF on the amp for the front speakers to 80hz to help them out. Do you have HPF and LPF on your headunit? Whats are these set to?

Yes. You need to buy it from Skoda

Firstly they sent you an item which is cheaper than what you paid. Even these would be better with an external amp but regards the cap then yes, that cap is your crossover. It won't cause problems no as it's what it's designed for

Assuming you dont want to replace the headunit you will need to choose a way to get a audio signal to the amp (RCA) There are a number of choices and as always price varies wildly. You can start with the cheap option which is a line converter. For these you need to splice into your rear speaker cables then run RCA cables from where ever you leave the converter to the boot and the amp. Its the cheap option but by no means an ideal solution. You can also use Processors, also known as DSP's. These have much more control than the cheaper line converters meaning your amp doesnt end up with all the frequencies and just the ones it actually wants. There are many retailers who can help out on specific models but i'd recomend visiting www.audioboffins.com. The owner is very knowledgable of his stock and has done a huge list of oem intigration builds so should be able to help no matter the budget.

Are you 100% sure you didnt get crossovers? Most entry level component sets dont have crossovers as seperate units now. They just fit capacitors in the cabling which do similar job but on the cheap

It does make a difference trust me, but if you are happy with partial coverage then its up to you. Thats a very strange type of staging having it slightly from the back (your ears aren't designed for that) but if its how you like it then carry on with it. Maybe try not amping them and see if you really do prefer it

I'd suggest using as much as possible rather than as little as possible when it comes to deadening. Normally I'd suggest not using rear speakers at all but it depends what you like. I wouldn't amp the rears up when you put front components in though. They will drag the sound stage backwards which is not what you want

If you turn off the tweeter the sound will be quite muffled and you will be missing the higher frequencies. You do attach the lip to the door. The speaker adaptors are held in using rivvets, not screws. This is why it looks different. If you do want to stop the tweeter from working you can cut the cable from the tweeter BUT if you want to get it working again repair will be a knightmare. Why do you not want the tweeters there?

With the issues of rear brakes being so common I think a sticky is needed. At the moment Mtec have 3 pads for the rear of the Octavia VRS Diesel when you select Green Stuffs. 2 are for 2009> and 1 is for 2006-2009 but they say 2006-2013 on the website. I chose the wrong ones but Mtec are going to refund me. I think there needs to be some info put up as its asked so much and as we know, the fault lies with Skoda who gave out the wrong information

I asked the garage to check the brakes out when changing them. They found no issues I have a feeling it's a bad batch of pads. Especially as ECP don't stock brembos OEM for most cars now

There's always the possibility. I bought green stuff pads from mtec to replace them and the garage rang me saying they don't fit. The old Skoda gave everyone the wrong information pops up again it seems.

I have a feeling they are a bad batch, mainly due to how long they took to bed in and that they are generally crap. They are getting replaced today so will ask the garage to check for abnormalities

All the same. OEM brembos from ecp fitted at the same time

They do get hot as they should, they squeak at the moment due to the pads being so low (replacements being fitted tomorrow)

Little odd one with my brake pads wear. All 4 discs and pads were replaced at the same time (10k ago) but the rear pads are totally gone whilst the fronts have loads of life left. I do carry weight in the back. Could the brake balance have been adjusted to the back due to the weight and it caused the odd wear?

I guess for the remote you are using a switched live in the fuse box? The speaker wires run into the rear door from the main loom but as you rightly assume, they dont go further back. If you remove the door card you can identify the cable colours as where the cabled plug into the speaker is not in the back of the speaker, its at the front on the mounting point so clearly visible

Greenlight. Highly recomended

Did you try contacting connects2 or autoleads?

you could use a ignition live from the fuse box and use a fuse tap. Only issue there is when the ignition is on the amp will be on, no matter if the headunit is on or not. Have a look at connects2 and autoleads. They are the market leaders in this kind of kit so look on their website and if you cant find what you want email them

tbh i'd do away with the rears and get a decent set for the front. You need to remember using the 10w per channel your headunit has isnt going to give a great sound as 99% of aftermarket kit is not as efficent as your oem speakers, which iirc are pioneer. If you dont want to go for an amp i'd suggest spending the £100 on a decent and efficent set of components but also look for a wave diffuser. You fit this to the outerskin of the door directly behind the mid and it helps with the back waves being scattered around the door cavity and helps to enhance the midbass. Sealing the door will also help. Most cars have holes in the door skin for bolts etc which are left open. Sealing these up with a bit of deadening will help (dont seal up the drain holes though lol) The del sol does lend its self very well to a nice simple setup as you can fit small subs in the bins behind the rear seats if you want

If it had halogen lights it MUST have manual adjustment unless it has auto adjustment (which only was with xenon lights on the octavia). Also, you said you have H7U, they will have had H7 not H7U.

Give your local dealer a call. You will need to get it from them anyway