ryan-re

The speakers are riveted in so you will need to drill them out. When you replace them you will need to make (prefreble) or buy and adaptor which fits and also wiring adaptor which allows you to use the oem plug for your aftermarket speakers. The biggest factor here is budget. If you are not planning on doing any deadening or adding an amp dont expect much, if any, improvement over standard. There are very few speakers available which work off very low power (your headunit will produce 10 watts per channel if you are lucky)

Why dont you want to change the trim? Its only £20 You also will need to spend around £30 on a iso adaptor and also buy a fakra to din aerial adaptor. Maybe try this instead? http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/head-units/double-din/pioneer-avh-x490dab-double-din-cd-mp3-dvd-player-dab-digital-radio-iphone-android-touchscreen-multimedia-player

Whats the voltage like when the engine is running?

VRS ones do have blue tint. That tint makes them twice the price aswell. iirc for a mk2 pre face lift its around £50 for a vrs mirror glass. Without tint (still heated) I found for £15

I tried LED in my main beam and it was no better than halogen due to the beam pattern being awful. When you say you bought some from a motorfactor, were they branded? I personaly wold never buy anything other than the likes of philips etc. I use Philips xtreme vision halogens in my main beam and they are fine. You wont get white light using halogen. The way to get close to white is to coat it in a blue coating. More blue, whiter it will look BUT also the lower the light output will be as it blocks part of the light spectrum.

FYI This link no longer works

The multimeter method doesn't really work though. I've seen amps, setup with a dmm checked with a scope and a lot of adjustments were needed

Jon. The fuse in the power cable is there to protect the cable it's self, not the amp. The fuse in the amp does that. A small 60a fuse in each of the power cable runs is fine

H8 is for non vrs models. I definitely have H1's in my 2006 vrs fogs

You dont need H8 for the fogs. You need H1

From what people have said above i'd guess their experience is from cheap led bulbs. The old SMD ones with loads of led's, as mentioned above, have light from all over which is totally wrong for the projector or the reflector light units in the mk2. The optical focal point (the point where the light is emitted) would be completely wrong. If you look at the more expensive led bulbs such as those using philips luxeon chips, you can see they use a single led for h1 and h7 and also look very simple. The single led allows for correclt location of the focal point. I am planning on going for some H1's to use as main beam to see how it goes but wont be looking at the cheap ones. I would only go for Philips led equipped ones.

When you say plug 'n' play do you mean you want an oem unit rather than aftermarket?

No aftermarket headunits come complete with the facia kits and wiring adaptors. You need to buy it all seperately The wiring harness is from connects2. Price wise I believe is around £25 but could be more. You'd need to contact connects2 for the exact model. Facia kits can actually be got from skoda. This includes mounting kit and new facia trim to go around the headunit and heater controls. You will also need a fakra aerial adaptor as the oem headunit is fakra and aftermarket units are not

Firstly. Ignore the spec on there. For one it will not put out anyware close to 220 rms. Compatible. Yes but you will need to buy all the correct mounting kits and wiring. Its not plug 'n' play

That sounds very odd. Id be tempted to message connects2. It sounds like there could be an issue with the adaptor

switched live should be yellow and perm should be red. They should have bullet connectors on them so swapping should be easy

Try swapping the swithced and perm lives over on the headunits loom. It will take more battery power having the ignition on but if you are going to have your stereo on for long periods of time i'd recomend upgrading the battery

Did you switch the ignition on when the glove box was out? If you did. thats your issue. Regards the on/off issue. Did you buy the correct iso connector for the headunit? The right one is the one connects2 make which creates a switched live for the headunit to use. You should not be able to turn it on with the ignition out and tbh why would you want to?

In the MK2 there is a huge gromit behind the battery. I have 4 runs of 0awg going through it. Try there

Do you want an aftermarket headunit or are you looking for an OEM or OEM equivalent unit? If aftermarket, single or double din? What's you budget? If you want aftermarket you will need to buy a few things. 1. Iso loom adaptor. Around £40 as it needs to be one which creates a switched live from the canbus system 2. Facia adaptors 3. Aerial adaptor. The aerial is a fakra connector and will need an adaptor

No headunit has a 50w x 4 amp. Its actually around 10w If you cannot get good enough sound using your headunit to power the speakers the next step is to get a small amp for the speakers. Other things you can try (i forget what you have already tried) 1. Mounting of the midbass speakers. They need to be solid and a wooden baffle would be best. 2. Wave diffuser fitted behind the speaker inside the door 3. Swap round the pos and neg on one speaker. Changing the phase can often make a big change to midbass.

There will be a filter someware. Probably have the cap attached to the mid's basket to make instalation easier. From what you've said I think you are expecting aftermarket speakers to be able to match oem speakers but theres more to it than that. Oem speakers are paper cones. Making them very sensitive and able to produce the lower midbass notes quite well at low volumes but drop off badly as you turn it up. Also, they will be designed in conjunction with Skoda so have had x watts in mind. The aftermarket speakers are all designed to be run with an external amp, not the 10watts your headunit can give them. I'd suggest getting a small amp and it will transform the speakers. Also the cup you have over the back of them wont be helping. They are designed to play into the door cavity, not a tiny enclosure.

If the amp is for the speakers use the hpf The sub amp use the lpf

Hpf try 80hz and lpf 80hz. It's not set in stone, try different combinations.

There isn't such thing as an "inline amplifier". You would need to splice into the rear speaker cables etc The foam cup you a bought to go over the back of the speaker isn't ideal as the speakers are not designed for it. The deadening will just stop rattling. I would suggest fitting a wave diffuser behind the speaker inside the door cavity.