nickguzzi

The garage has a contract with Skoda not VW.

No Idea, but sounds a good trick if you can pull it off! Staying at my sisters place in Frankfurt before heading off to southern France, the newly waxed car got COVERED in bird poop. So off to find a car wash. The Hanauer Landstrasse is Frankfurt's car show room mile and there are several. I chose the one with easiest access. Mr Wasche Autowasche - you can't miss it, just by the A661/Hanauer interchange. They also sell cheap fuel. For €4, the car got a pre soak where a guy sprayed the dirtiest bit, I think he used a days supply on the mess. Next through a rinse gantry, before going though a typical brush thing with a blow job to finish. One of the females came up and polished up the glass which was now nice and clean. I thought it was very decent value. I could have had someone vac the inside too, but I'd completely cleaned the car the weekend before. Recommended.

I've not heard of a front to rear swap being done. I'm not surprised a dealer refused to fit non standard parts. Its part of their contractual agreement to use only approved parts. Let alone any liability issues. Dave1970B who visits a few VAG based sites has done a lot of work with the brakes on various models. He did do a larger rear set up for Golfs etc, based on an Audi fitment, so quite expensive. Last I heard, his latest efforts were using a Caddy caliper, which is larger, but on a standard disc.

Just for info. I had a compressor fail just before a summer holiday, so no time for faffing. Local indy offered a secondhand unit or an ebay (Standen) one. I took the s/h one as it would be done quicker. It was also slightly cheaper but that wasn't the decider. Either option was about 1/2 main dealer quote.

Keep up Chris! - he has the stuff on his trim too. Are we talking the rubbing strip first of all? Is it the painted type or just textured plastic? Probably best to start with the least hazardous option, have you tried a good soak with water? Perhaps tape a damp compress across the affected part. Given time water will work wonders, sometimes. Will work on most superglue. Next step up could be petrol/lighter fuel. H&S alert. I would try applying with a cotton bud or similar first and test an inconspicuous area first. If you have to go to a solvent like acetone, then extra careful as you are now into stuff which could cause damage, but should work on contact type adhesive. Again try to be as controlled as possible, mask off the paintwork.

All the suppliers round here are sub 40p/litre

I get paid by the word.

Depends on the type of glue - there are so many different types. What does it look like? Colour? Texture? Smell?

https://www.arnottindustries.com/part_AUDI_yid17_pid124.html http://www.blauparts.com/audi_allroad_suspension/audi_allroad_airbag_suspension_conversion_kit.html http://www.accuair.com/vehiclekitproducts/accuair-sport-air-suspension-audi-b8 Sure, no problem at all. When they are knackered, spend another fortune replacing the suspension. That was just the first google page. Between the howto's on utube. Maybe there were some UK/EU ones in the next few dozen pages. Arnotts at least also have systems for rangerover's. Both a coil replacement and an upgraded air.

I don't think it is so much the freezing in the pipes that is the problem, but spraying even a -30C screen wash on your screen when travelling up a German Autobahn in darkest mid winter (ambient temps -15 to -20C) can cause a brown trouser moment. I'm sure there are plenty of alternatives, but the Lidl one is (usually) available and very convienient. You can put a big flagon in the car and top as needed on the way. No mixing or faffing. Great if you are travelling the 1200mile round trip to Frankfurt. It is also fan jet friendly. I'm not sure how much of a deal that is. I had a crusty rear when I first got the car, but a drizzle of the good stuff and a bit of probing sorted that. No smell yet, is four years long enough? The nicest smell screenwash wise was one I used to buy from Carrefour in France. Fresh grapefruit. Like eating Opal Fruits without the tooth rotting.

That sounds like the use they were intended for - vehicles standing long term. If the battery is needing charge every day then its likely there is a problem. Even short journeys and everything on, an alternator should be on top of that. Are they all rated 120 amp? or just the tdi?

Not seen the Lidl stuff on their electronic flyers. Fortunately I have two flagons left - but will that last the winter?

You are probably right. Weren't the belts at the back of the block? It was a long time ago. Octimark, thanks for some real life experiences.

Its for someone doing the odd trackday in his own daily driver. Presumably he is not stupid enough to drive like a t1t. Whenever a gruesome accident is shown, it is pretty rare the head area shows damage. If it does, then without a roll cage, its not likely to be survivable with even the best helmet. Wind noise won't be a problem inside a car. I use a Lidl visored openface for popping into town on the scooter. £20, much better than scratching up my Shoei.

Had it for the first time when in Southampton yesterday. Nice and quick, unlike the almost un-useable 3g only here in Fenland normally.

^^^ Yes. I had that once. Just brake harder!

@ OP. Helpers needs to know what car you have. More details = more chance of a solution. VCDS is the 3rd party interrogator, it's pretty comprehensive, 2nd only to the official VAG one and usually much better than the generic handhelds.

I had the glass holding clips go after someone smashed their way in. This happened in Paris, and I had to go on to Frankfurt. I thought it would be easier in Germany, but the glass place could only locate Golf glass which was identical though clips were different. Drove home with the glass jammed up with a stick. I found a place up on Tyne side which seemed to be a bit of a specialist on this sort of thing, and they posted me off the stuff I needed very efficiently. It was ages ago, so no address. I found this on ebay. Price seems ok. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-OCTAVIA-WINDOW-REGULATOR-REPAIR-KIT-FRONT-RIGHT-/220685348986 Reassembly was not just the reverse of removal as I hadn't taken it apart. The cable bit was a bit reluctant, but doable - just about within my patience span. Re pads and stuff. I have std Padgid stuff, pleased with it. Noise, dust, wear and effectiveness breaking, all good. ECP for that?

Ah! a 2007. A good year, nearly as good as the late '06's. But it is 7 years old and some of the bushes could be starting to go soft or split. A thorough inspection of all of them and any metal bits which are in contact with, part of or in close proximity should reveal your problem. That should give you something to do over the weekend. Hope you get it sorted. Being old and decrepit, I don't roll about under cars. When I had a noise problem last year, I took it to a decent and sympathetic garage. It took two of us a while to find the bit of broken spring, and to make note of a couple of bushing which were past the possibility of optimum performance.

I have Padgid on the front. Came with the 312 brake upgrade. After 40,000+ miles the pads are about 1/2 worn, the discs look as new, no grooves or lips. The Apec fitted on the back by the supplying dealer are about ready for replacement. They've done less than 60,000 miles. Globalisation, don't you just love it. I don't know who owns what, but a manufactures www showed a big list of brands last time I looked.

I've had a Whiteline RARB fitted for 4 ish years. Its has not squeaked or rattled or hit anything. I drive over the Alps often, and any other hilly, twisty bits of road I can find. I usually have a max load +. Wine and camping stuff for a summer, so reasonably down at the back. Still no problems, still feels so much better. Is it fitted correctly, as already alluded to? Is it the correct model for you car? Hope you get it sorted soon and start to reap the benefits.

Either a signalling fault, the sender or allied stuff is duff. Or, not making enough pressure, the oil pump is duff. Or, unable to hold the pressure due to pressure release valve opening OR wear (and soon tear) internally. Too much clearance on the crank/bearings will allow the oil to escape and the pump will be incapable of moving enough oil to fill the gap = metal to metal = destruction. If you don't have enough pressure, and the light is the very last ditch warning, then the crank bearings will not "float". They need a minimum pressure to do the hydrodynamic surfing thing which stops them destroying themselves. Something to check out properly.

A very low amp one "may" improve the situation temporarily, but the sulphate tends to fall off and eventually shorts out the bottom of the plates. This is what we call a terminal problem. (boom! boom!) Similar end result to using a high amp charger, but they tend shake out the lead peroxide filling in the plates. But faster. Since alternators became standard, batteries last until they don't, ie years longer. Dynamo powered ones were lucky to go a couple of years. Once they start being funny(not), don't waste time, effort and money on pellets or chargers or other hoodoo. Man up and get a new one. A decent Bosch S96 @<£100 or similar or the one Mike Holroyd found for <£50. If the world economy wasn't in the toilet you would get some scrap value on your old one, too. Only use for a charger is if the vehicle is left for a long time, then an optimate type thing will limit sulphation. I've been on this forum a while now, and can't recall a post where someone had an alternator charging problem. Tensioners, yup, one going round at the moment, but an actual alternator not charging? not so much.

Heard somewhere that it might take a while, weeks to months rather than days. We must minimise environmental risk. Not a proper quote, but the gist...

My Londoncolour HID's may be cheap, but they have functioned for over 4 years, and provide beautiful light. What have they done wrong? The mechanical installation take 5 mins each, and the VCDS even less.