nafeun

Exactly what I plan on doing cheers pal

Already checked and it's a 0 so going to go as high up the loom I can and check the voltage there. I ll take a look Sunday :(

12v on the purple and 0v on the blue... Alternator at 12.9 Amps on tickover and 14 when revved. Help :( where does the blue wire enter the bulkhead ?

70k or 4 years

Thank you for doing that, I ll have a look at the weekend with my mates vagcom and fathers volt meter. I ll post the resukts

Thanks for that no not yet as my friend with vagcom is currently away. All the tell tail signs are its load signal...power steering loss at random times and no bat light on ignition on

Hi all, My 2004 VRS is poorly :( first time in 3 years. 3 years ago I suffered the usual battery drain problem and found the load sensor wire had snapped by the starter motor. At the time I managed to bodge it with some solder and it made a connection...just. My intention was to at some point make a proper repair. That proper repair never did materialise and my bodge worked well up until 3 days ago when my wife lost power steering. I made the assumption that my solder had failed since I had no battery light on ignition on. I checked and it looked a poor connection so resoldered, however it still failed. Therefore I cut all the connector out and replaced with fresh wire and crimps using good crimp connectors and good crimping tools. I'm still not getting the battery light :( I have checked the colours match 3 times over and have checked all connections. Therefore I assume it has been damaged elsewhere in the loom. Would this be the only logical suggestion? My plan of attack is to firstly check conductivity from alternator to ecu. If there is a problem I will replace the entire loom from alty to ecu. To summarise, no battery light, dodgy wires repaired and still no battery light. Questions. 1. Could be anything else? 2. What pin on the ecu is the load wire? Cheers Nath

Mine has same problem as op. What is the part number of this splitter you mention?

Badgerman. I had same issue and I folllowed the Instructions here using shielded cat5 cable, works brilliantly. The purple connector is just an antenna required on the older units

Using would of instead of would have mate

They all blow a bit of smoke, keep an eye on consumption but I wouldn't worry

Perfect excuse to bin the useless standard calipers for bigger ones. I did and the new set come with almost new pads and discs. £60 for brilliant stopping power

Turn esp off?

Battery dead?

Sell your columbus and buy a dab one. Neat and OEM. Will need a dab arial however

I see one has appeared on ebay this morning...I would start asking for serial numbers for those on ebay. Arseholes.

https://robpol86.com/guides/US-RNS-510-Video-In-Motion/

Look on my gti website for the rns video in motion hack, can download the ISO which will work with the columbus

Don't get me wrong, took some work. Needed newer BT module which I managed to get for a cheap £45, new wiring from module to stereo as sound was in mono which cost another £5 in repair wires and some spare shielded cable I had then it wouldn't always pick up my iPhone 6 so upgraded the columbus firmware and it now works perfect all of the time.

My BT is perfect

Sure it's not the clutch pulley? Common on the bosch alternator. Mine was whining and I replaced it a few weeks ago for £30. Search forums or Google search, really common. INA is OE manufacturer

I found instructions with part numbers for repair wires required (pins to solder to speaker cable) in the tagged thread on bluetooth.

It's only mono wired :( you have to wire from bluetooth pin to rear of stereo pin with shielded cable. Quite easy when you know how. I used shielded cat5 network cable and some fibre glass rods to go under carpet. Works great now full stereo

What model bluetooth unit do you have too? Look under drivers seat and quote part number

Golf*