simion_levi

There does seem to be an issue with faulty oil pumps in (some?) DQ381 boxes - VW have TCU updates labelled 23x4 and more recently 34x1 that apparently try to diagnose and flag problematic units with a fault code. https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/41966-dsg-re-call/ It's a topic I keep at the back of my mind, as I'd expect Skoda could be similarly affected. I haven't seen any reports, but wonder if that is just because Skoda haven't rolled out equivalent TCU updates yet? Not sure if this is what you've had, but I have seen some of the 23x4 reports mention poor driveability after the update - sluggish behaviour, sport feeling like drive, drive like eco etc.

Not sure about Carplay, but Android Auto certainly seems to have issues more recently, at least with certain phones. I have fairly regular app crashes and restarts when using Waze with my Pixel 4XL that never used to happen until this year - same phone and car, just both have received firmware updates and one has obviously introduced this instability. Many discussions on the web about it, e.g. https://support.google.com/androidauto/thread/136985712/pixel-6-keeps-disconnecting-with-android-auto-is-there-a-fix?hl=en

Does 0480 remains the latest version, please? I've had a few issues with Android Auto/Waze dropping (MIB2 screen black or drops to the 'App' home screen) only to reconnect seconds later and I don't recall experiencing it on 0478 or older versions. Of course it could be cable wear issues (though I've tried a few) or phone firmware updates that have added some instability, so curious to know if anyone else has seen the same?

Thanks for that screenshot - it prompted me to check my access again to verify that I absolutely do not have the option, as I remember looking before - I was right, completely missing the option. Changed my registration from individual to company though and it is now present.

They are hidden by square stickers and covered with the underseal, there are some promising looking patches on your photo. I know they are well hidden, I fitted the OEM bar to my vrs last year.

Hi @pab567, very grateful if you can share a link to the 480 firmware:

Hello @pab567, I'd be very grateful if you can share the latest firmware for my Amundsen (478?) I've had a couple of occasions where the clock jumps around, I'd like to see if this will fix it.

There are several latching clips, circled on your picture. I can't recall if it's 3 or 4 in total. You need to release them all and pull the fusebox forwards. It'll probably be fairly stiff and movement will still be restricted by wires, but lots of gentle wiggling should get it out enough to get a hand behind. Next, remove the purple locking strip from the row you want to add the cables - it pulls out to the left of the fusebox. Finally, easiest method to get a new cable lined up is to put the flat end of a plastic cable tie or similar through from the front, clip the cable over the end of it (just as it grips a fuse blade), then pull the cable tie back through.

Irritating, isn't it? Assuming it's the same as a 2019 VRS, get the Skoda part below from a dealer, TPS or Skoda parts websites. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e9955425a-rear-wiper-combi-skoda-21136.html

I'm pretty sure my DSG ACC hands back control if it comes to a complete stop in traffic - it warns you to apply brake manually, then switches off after a couple of seconds. This is meant to be because of the manual hand brake in the Octavia, whereas models with EPB will apply it and then release & resume ACC after a complete stop of any duration. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that TJA will therefore require EPB.

That seems to be the suggestion on various forums. I have engine code DKTB in my September 19 registered Challenge and cannot definitively say that is the case from ETKA as the intake manifold options refer to PR codes rather than engine codes, but there are certainly two diagrams available - one showing port injectors, one without. I'll try to remember to have a look under the bonnet to confirm. However, on the Superb 272 forum, there is indication that Gen3 EA888 is not so badly affected as the Gen2, potentially because EGR is no longer used. EDIT: I did clean my 2010 Gen2 EA888 valves myself when doing a waterpump change at around 50,000 miles. it was a bit of a faff but not too bad. If the problem is reduced in Gen3, I'm not too concerned - at worst it's likely to be a one off service requirement, if I keep the car for more than 6 years.

Neither video nor power. Grey connector position 6+12 are CAN high and low, for data communication. With the cameras, this is needed for the superimposed moving lines showing your steering angle. You will have cables already in the positions you need to connect in the camera loom, hence either you would need to splice in the new ones - or you use the provided piggyback connection. This just saves cutting/soldering cables. You take the existing cables out of the grey connector 6+12 position, latch into the piggyback shown below and connect the leads from the loom into the grey connector instead.

This is my MY20 245 Challenge, appears to be HW442 4388 and guessing AC from the sw string too. Drive mode is automatically reset

I know it signified low battery in the MK2

To do the switch neatly You'll be wanting to get connector block 8E0 972 710 to fit to your Audi seat to the Skoda loom. If the Audi cables have the wrong terminals, it looks like this connector block uses very common JPT and JT terminals (if this picture from Aliexpress is anything to go by).

It should be easy enough with a multimeter and following some cables to components. Just leave the airbag and yellow connector well alone, you know that fits already. Work on the basis that for the Audi seat: yellow airbag, black occupancy sensor, red is power motors (you don't have) plus footwell light, green is seat heating. Trace back (or put 12v across the contacts) the 2x wires in the red connector to confirm footwell light, and trace the light in your Skoda seat back to the large connector block. It'll be a pair of the narrower gauge cables. Black occupancy sensor has two cables in both Skoda and Audi, just using different connector blocks. It's a make/break circuit depending on whether the seat is occupied so the order probably doesn't matter, but I'd go for yellow<->yellow/green being equivalent You are left with four wires in the green block to match up with four remaining cables in the large black Skoda block. You will have a pair of heavier duty cables (brown & purple in the Skoda block and looks to be brown stripe and purple stripe in the Audi seat?) that will almost certainly be 12V supply and Earth for the heat mat, use your multimeter on the car loom to work out which is which. Two narrower gauge cables left that will be trigger wires for turning on/setting or sensing heat level. I'd do some research on wire colours for both the Skoda and the Audi examples you have before gambling with these, ETKA online should have the necessary wiring diagrams.

You need to stick a narrow bladed screwdriver/pick into the tab hole and pull it forward. Just doing one tab whilst wiggling the connector should free it from the tailgate body.

Presumably these have a power switch? Just make sure it is off before connecting up to eliminate risk of spark at the battery terminals.

I used the Kufatec loom to fit USB hub 5Q0 035 726 L, with two cables - connecting to the fusebox and the earth point in passenger footwell https://www.kufatec.com/en/infotainment-multimedia/entertainment-accessories/cable-set-usb-hub-for-vw-audi-seat-skoda-43184 I've not seen your cable before. It looks like it is meant to piggyback on another connection to share power/earth. Not sure if that is going to be the front USB port or one of the buttons in the centre console? The loom doesn't look long enough to reach radio/fusebox or elsewhere in the dashboard. Might not be applicable for the Octavia, of course.

I will say that the larger JT terminals still seem to fit and latch in the standard size fuse positions.

In case this helps anyone else: I did this a few weeks back and spent ages buggering around trying to get the JPT fitted connectors on a couple of looms I was adding to latch into the fusebox. In the end I had to give up and rely on the secondary lock (the purple strip) to hold them in place. It'll be absolutely fine, but frustrating and a job not done 'properly'. Well today I got hold of a similar fusebox from a scrapped car and very quickly realised that JPT will never latch. MCP 2.8 connectors are needed instead! Photo attached - JPT (TE Connectivity AMP Junior Power Timer) crimp terminal at the bottom - I've used these in previous generation fuseboxes (Octavia MK2 etc) and received several ready made looms for current MQB models, to fit to my Octavia MK3, with them attached - so naturally thought they should fit! Whereas top connector, crimped to a cable, is the MCP 2.8 (TE Connectivity AMP Multiple Contact Point) connector that is actually required in fusebox Octavia 3 and other MQB models for minifuse connection. Note different latch position.

Great, thanks Sasha - should've known if anyone had done it, it would be you! I'll have another go at it then.

Has anyone successfully added a circuit to the Octavia 3 fusebox without disassembling the whole dashboard? That is to say, pushing cables with JT/JPT connectors in to the back of the fusebox, not using the add-a-circuit fuse taps. I've wired in my OEM reverse camera recently, it's the correct loom with a JPT connector for 12V so I'd like to connect up to fuse position #18, as it should. I've had a bit of a poke around, but I couldn't see a way to get the fusebox forward enough to release the purple locking strip, Some success stories would help give me motivation to return to it another day, rather than leaving a temporary bodge in place! I've shamelessly borrowed a couple of photos to demonstrate from our Cupra friends at: https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/retrofit-heated-seats-a-complete-how-to.457156/ The Octavia has a crossmember passing straight over the large white shield/connector near the bottom of the box, but this looked to be integral to large parts of the dash.

120Nm is the standard I use.