Woolfy

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

I'm surprised that joke made it out today. It is a bit cold out, and the zimmer frame must have been chilly to hold onto:D

Do you mean the bump stops? One of mine is split, and i'm pretty sure it must have been like that at MOT in July, and there was no advisory at all.

Doh:orb_bonk: Triggerfish beat me to it:P

The problem with Parkers is you need to look at when the items in the spec were available. Different items made up the Elegance spec level over the life of the model. For instance the parking sensors were only available as a dealer fit option earlier on, but became standard later on. Also, I think rear electric windows were deleted from the entire Fabia Mk1 range, so later cars always have manual rear windows AFAIK The mini leather pack (gear kn0b, handbrake and steering wheel) was a option earlier on, and later it became part of the spec IMAO you should go for the Elegance, as the extra kit makes the car feel less like a cheap VW (although, of course it is;)) HTH

That's the most apt so far:rofl::rofl:

errr........... Eric Lusby?? Hmm, only fluffing work for me I think:eek:

Hi there if you search for fixing the dash creak, you get this guide (<-----clicky) with some nice pics explaining how to get the centre one out and the principle is the same for the tow outer ones. When you remove it carefully note where the sprung pin is that holds the vanes in the end positions. You will know what i mean when you can see the mechanism. They have a tendency to ping off into the ether if you are not careful. It is more likely that the vanes have lost their end pins rather than become detached and you can't get the vanes separately. I fixed mine by carefully drilling a 1 mm hole into the end of the broken vanes and then heated up some of SWMBO's needles (shh, don't tell;)) and stuck them in the hole. I then lopped the ends of the needles off with a dremel and Robert's your Dad's brother:cool:. The needle ends aren't visible when it is all reassembled. You can get a used replacement from a scappers or on fleabay if you don't fancy all that mucking about.

You can upload you own picture, but you will need to resize it first. Not that I would advocate such things, but I'm sure you can find a suitable one on t'interweb and save it to your pc and then resize it.

If the washers are missing from the lower clips then it is a possibility, as the nub of the problem is that the bottom of the door fills with water, and can't drain fast enough from the drain holes underneath, and then gets passed the carrier seal and then runs down the inside of the door between the metal and the door card, into the car, rather than onto the sill, on the outside of the rubber door seal.

:+1:it's like trying to get out of a speeding ticket by saying that "the bloke in front was doing 90 as well". It isn't going to help your case. You need to be as nice as possible to them and get them on your side.

why didn't that turn up on all the acronyms dictionarys I looked at. The old, if you can't fix it with a hammer it's an electrical problem school. My kinda tool box

Yes, kicking it off the trolley jack is always an interesting (and sometimes expensive: how did you get that hole in floor pan of your car - it's going to take quite a bit of welding sir) experience. Just make sure the jack wheels are chocked as well as the car wheels if you try this. I didn't - I paid for the welding:O

WTF is FBH ??????

:+1:and look for white foam on the engine oil filler cap, and if you are really unlucky oily scum on the top of the water in the expansion bottle. The water coming out the back is almost certainly just condensation from the pipe and cat. Get a compression test if you are really worried, don't take the head off just yet.

I know the octy is pimped, but there is no way it can average 480 mph:D Personal longest is Leeds - Pymouth - Leeds in a hired transit helping a friend move house roughly 650 miles, and humping furniture at both ends. earned my beer tokens that that day!

:+1: Post this question in Awesome's section here and I'm sure they will give you all the info you need:thumbup:

This thread seems to be degenerating into a discussion about licking and white bits.

Failing that, http://www.fabia-vrs.com/technical-info/service-checklist-for-mk1-fabia/ is a good place:thumbup:

Does anybody know the part no(s) for the underseat mounting brackets for the OEM cd changer I've done a search, and all I can glean is that it was £49.99 back in August 2008 (should have gone down then, with inflation LOL) I have the changer, headunit and wiring harness, and now all I need to do is swap out the passenger underseat storage box for the changer's mounting. An exploded diagram would be even better if anybody has one Cheers:thumbup:

It's dead easy 185 - that's the width of the tyre in mm 60 - that's the height of the tyre expressed as a percentage of the width, so your tyre sides are 111mm measured from the edge of the rim to the top of the side 14 - that's the dia of the wheel in inches (rather helpfully tyre and whell sizing is a mix of inches and mm) 6j - is the width of the rim in inches. so 6 inches so 152.4mm. So your tyres over hang the rims by 15mm or so on each side. Lokk onn wikipeadia, there is a good explanation on there

:+1: I have a petrol 1.4 16v elegance estate, and with two young kids it can still cart all the gear around, and you feel in relative luxury because of all the little extras. I was looking for a 1.9 diesel, but found it harder to find a nice example (the estates tend to get more use and abuse) and ended up with the petrol as i ran out of time when car hunting. The only real niggle I have with the car is the handling and grip levels are not good, but I moved from an Audi A£ with full sports suspension, so the comparison is probably pretty unfair. Whereabouts in Yorkshire are you, it's a pretty big place!

I have a 1.4 16v Elegance estated on 185/60/R14's on the OEM 14" alloys, anmd mine is 10% over stating the speed as well. It seems that this is the norm

Yes, but as the tyre is lower profile there is less tyre flex to add to the overall suspension travel. So if you the car is set up as a good compromise between stiffness and comfort on 16" rims, then the set up will become stiffer/harsher on 17" rims, and the lowering might need to be reduced to get back to the same compromise levels. HTH

Thanks for all the help peeps:thumbup: I'll have a go at it when i get chance. Hopefully it will be the elements burnt out as that sounds the easiest fix. I'll post up how i get on