Morph

I got mine from here https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/

Ok. After a long time believing my window problem was caused by a new regulator (a comfort one as it was called). It turns out it was either the motor or the control unit. Turning the motor around made the issue do the opposite. Currently without any odb reader/computer connection so had to do things the old fashioned way. Bought an identical motor and control unit with all the numbers matching exactly, put it in and it works perfectly - was in reverse so turned the motor around again and all is good. Still don’t know if it was the controller/coding issue or motor. So in summary I changed the drivers side window regulator and at the same time something happened with the controller/coding/motor meaning my auto windows kept resetting.

If the motor has been removed then you should be able to pretty much freely lift the window up and down by hand. If this is stuck then as Alasdair says it could be the glass has popped out the holder/s or it’s the regulator (cables).

Have a look under the scuttle panel as the air intake area could be dirty (leaves mainly). Just a thought.

Trying to repair one window (see topic below and you’ll get the idea) and managed to break another. Broken window motor with part number 1K0959704J SK2 - HW 006 SW1201. Many secondhand ones available but none that match up correctly, how do I know what ones I can use? Ie. there is one available but the part number is the same but ends SK3 with HW006 SW1301, would this be ok?

Thinking motor swap with another door???

My saga continues. The above worked for around a day but probably just a coincidence. So I tried something out which was to reverse the actual physical motor and now the auto windows reset when at the top as opposed to the bottom confirming that it is either the motor itself or the control unit. Any idea's how to now work out which one is at fault moving forward?

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/febi-bilstein/20844181?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&tb_prm=21793047529&gshp=1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21782702145&gbraid=0AAAAAoWFwrel1HG3W3uphUXiTARS_IVk1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8p7GBhCjARIsAEhghZ2iLJsYOebgNapFEeQVCIw_qM8hjpgK5st3fk7XWQSJBy5rRwBbN30aArx1EALw_wcB

There’s a sensor or sensors connected to the wishbones. (front/rear) The arms move under load. These will need to be disconnected anyway if you are doing suspension work so you’ll get the idea. I tend to undo the bolts instead of prizing the plastic knuckle off as they can break. These tell the controller what to do which in turn tells the lights what to do.

Try to disconnect and reconnect the controller which is probably in behind the hvac controls.

Not sure with aftermarket sensors but the oem unit is in behind the passenger side, side boot lining and are bolted on to the wheel arch next to the cd changer if you have one.

when reversing and putting full right hand lock on I get a knock at the point of reaching the maximum lock point. And possibly when I’m moving along straight and I put my foot down. Seems to come from right hand side/middle of engine area. Changed drive shafts, arb, suspension, drop links and ball joints to name a few parts which has resulted in no change at all. Any ideas?

Yes you are correct, about 5 clips run along it under the raised bars. Just pull at it and it will come off.

Resolution to this issue finally. The new eBay comfort regulator has a little rubber grommet at the bottom of the front side runner as does a oem one, it wasn’t good enough meaning the window dropped a tiny bit further than it should, hence switching off the down one touch option. I glued a small piece of rubber on top of the original and it’s now all working again. Will it last!!??

Done it myself on the drive and got it recharged at the garage, horrible job especially for someone with limited experience. The dealer sells a little black plastic grid screen that attaches to the fins to help prevent this. 1K0820746

Any ideas if this bleed is fixable?

For anyone else who has the same problem I’ve found that my ODB11 reader works on other cars just no longer mine for some reason. Other readers work on my car.

Reader also works ok on neighbours Focus

ODB reader stopped working on my car, tried it in a Mercedes and it worked fine, back to my car - won't work. Removed pins from OBD connector to test for clamping strength, all seem ok but I closed them up anyway - still no connection. All 7 pins give expected readings in relation to ohms, voltage and continuity. Red power light and wifi light working on reader. Until I can test another reader tomorrow what are the thoughts on this?

I understand that I want to find a solution to a problem so you believe differing things but despite being way beyond me this extract from a forum seems plausible, any thoughts? @MaticMD: Thanks for the auto-scan. I suspect (hope, really) that it might contain a plausible explanation for your window regulator problem - maybe? So, from your auto-scan, here's a better view of the long-code strings on both your driver and passenger side door modules: Byte Driver-side Driver-side Passenger-side Passenger-side Hex Binary Hex Binary 0 00 00000000 00 00000000 1 11 00010001 11 00010001 2 03 00000011 01 00000001 3 20 00100000 20 00100000 4 00 00000000 0A 00001010 5 02 00000010 00 00000000 6 08 00001000 04 00000100 7 00 00000000 00 00000000 8 00 00000000 00 00000000 9 00 00000000 00 00000000 10 10 00010000 10 00010000 11 00 00000000 00 00000000 @downtime conversation about the module dataset is spot-on (I reckon). I've highlighted Byte 6 in the table above to show that there is an apparent difference between the coding of Driver/Passenger modules. Now, normally different Byte values across both modules is not unusual on MQB platform vehicles, but the software switches on Byte 6 selects the window regulator Dataset that the module uses to control the "fast-glass". Remembering that binary numbers are read from right-to-left and the right-most digit is Bit 0 - I hope you can agree with the following observations from the table above: on your Passenger-side module, Byte 6, Bit 2 is set- which means that the lower-nibble has a value hex04, which means that the module is using Window Regulator Dataset 1. on your Driver-side module, Byte 6, Bit 3 is set - which means that the lower-nibble has a value hex08, which means that the module is using Window Regulator Dataset Auto-recognition. My suspicion (guess, really) is that the hex42 module might be having problems selecting the correct Dataset when in AUTO mode. I'm not sure why this might be happening. Perhaps, there is a degree of un-OEM-ness about this non-standard module that's causing confusion with this part of its operation (again, just a guess) So - given your statement that the hex52 module is operating OK, it's probably safe to assume that Dataset 1 is also the appropriate protocol for the hex42 module. Therefore, try changing Byte 6 on the hex42 module to hex04. Don PS: here's the relevant long-code helper screen FYI:

Only the regulator was changed, not the motor.

Brand new - called ????? comfort. https://share.icloud.com/photos/08cYhkr7inUI7mMvG2QSEOQgw

I have followed all the variations banded about on the internet and such of reset procedures and still the same, works perfectly until you let the window open fully (at its lowest possible point) and then the automatic side stops. If I try and hold the window in the down position to reset it never works as this is where the failure point is. If i put it up and reset it both up and own options work again - I can open automatically all the way down again but if it gets to the very bottom, auto open and close stops again.

Thanks for the reply, at 12.6v and just above when resting so the battery is good. I have a sneaky suspicion based on research that I need to recode something for the car to relearn where the bottom stop point is.

I have the BMN and have always thought the smell was horrible even from nearly new and certainly gives me an indication of exhaust problems by it getting worse.