Morph

Changed out my window regulator on drivers door and now every time I open the window fully it cancels auto open and close. Reset it using the hold up on the switch method and it works fine unless I ever let the window fully open and it stops working again. If it goes all the way up it will still do the auto function, so will go automatically down again, if I stop before fully open everything works as should. Battery had a problem when doing it and I needed to jump it, just using the window loads whilst trying to lubricate option. I would’ve done things like run the motor when not attached to the regulator. Any help appreciated.

Hi I’m trying to add a remote control to a water pump circuit but struggling to get my head around things. Below is the manufacturers wiring diagram and I want to add a remote control unit, this has 4 wires, 2 positive and negative input and 2 for output. It needs to work after the speed controller. I want to be able to turn the speed controller on and off remotely and leave everything else to work as was. Help would be much appreciated.

For others with the same problem. I changed the freewheel pulley and now the noise has gone. Pulley was 20 odd quid and the tools 16.

My car is sounding like a tractor when idling, put my foot on the clutch and the noise goes. Two possibilities I have been told are, the alternator or thrust bearing. With my limited knowledge and good old YouTube I have managed to work out that when the belt is off and I have a screw driver in the alternator the freewheel pulley does not spin either way which I believe means that it is knackered. No charging or starting problems. Would it be sensible to buy a pulley and the two tools needed to change it or could there be something else that I am not thinking about?

You can change the ignition starter switch on some. I did on mine and I think I had similar problems but along with other issues I’m not 100% sure. 1K0905865 for mine. Here is a pic of the old one out and stripped down.

Sort of being lazy/sensible and not wanting to get everything out, jacking it up and all that.

Brakes are wearing uneven and I’m going to rebuild the caliper but I’m struggling to find the piston size so I can order the correct kit. Anyone know? MK2 VRS 312mm discs.

Hi Could anyone tell me if these are put on from inside to out or outside to in please? https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/audi-rear-bumper-breather-air-vent-flap-genuine-audi-3t0819465a/id/9421 Probably answered my own question now that I've looked at it again as I assume the rubber seal around the face as shown in pic is on the outside to seal it!!

Would like some advice on my pads and discs. picture shows some old Brembo discs and pads. Both inside discs and pads have worn funny whereas the outside ones are as I’d expect. Any thing I need to be looking at or is this normal!!?

BMN. Had the crank speed sensor replaced by Skoda about 1 year ago. no VCDS I’m afraid.

Any ideas on my rpm counter. Up until today it would sit at like 6-800 rpm but now the needle drops to nothing. Works fine when driving.

A while ago I noticed a bit of water in the spare tyre well, I have had similar problems twice previously I recall and managed to sort it but this time I have found lots of water in the actual subframe of the car is the cause, by just the amount of water in the subframe sloshing about and getting into the well. In the middle of the picture is a round hole, I can push a piece of pipe in there and down and suck the water out. 1 Month ago I blew and sucked it all out and threw it around a bit, blew the water out again and so on, also left the car open to dry and I believed all the water was out completely. I went away for a month so the car pretty much sat for this time with the only rain being a massive downpour 1 day after I left and someone giving it a wash and apart from the 1 day rain and wash it has sat in the sun for the full month, but today I put the air gun in again and there is loads of water. Obviously there are what I believe to be three possibility's here, 1 - I didn't get it all out, 2 - the huge downpour on day 1 caused it or 3 - a jet washer/washing it is causing it. The water is very clean and tastes clean. Has anyone one else come across this please. I have extensivly tired sourcing it by tracking back things like, bungs, seals, third brake light and so on and can find no water tracking. It happens on both sides but I believe the passenger side is just the excess from the drivers side. Car always sits on a slight slope facing downwards so after getting it all out I parked it the other way to see if this helped.

Think I’ve managed to answer my own question and found out that it’s thermal pads.

Hi. I’m repairing a radio that has had water ingress. I’ve cleaned everything off of the circuit board but I have come across something I would class as something similar to heat sink paste, it feels more like a spongy type substance but this could’ve been down to the water ingress. Pic below shows one larger area of the blue paste and you can see some which has fallen away from a little rectangle raised tab that is below and to the left of the bigger bit. Anyone know what this is please?

Calm down mate only asking a question.

Around 13 years ago I purchased a nearly 2 year old Octavia (9000 miles) from a main dealer. When I purchased the car there was a few things that concerned me but it's one of them where I could've been overthinking things. There was and is a permanent liquid stain down the back of the passenger seat and a broken rear air vent amongst other things. I asked the dealer what the provinence of the car was and I was assured it was all above board and came from Skoda to them directly (previous named owner on paperwork) and had all relevant checks for mileage etc. 12 years later I decide to take the rear bumper off to have it resprayed and notice that in the rear quarter there has been some crash repair, noticeable by a seem where the sealant is totally different from factory and that the bump stops are quite a way from sitting where they should do, again with some other things. Would the dealer have known about this and do i have any recourse.

If I recall correctly mine looked great and tested well, changed the battery with a brand new one and it still didn’t work. Put in a second hand one and it’s worked perfectly ever since. Ok it might not last that long but part of it for me in the first instance was to check it was the alarm unit and nothing else. If it goes again in my ownership then I’ll just buy and brand new one, think they were about £150.

I had everything off and out, cleaned connectors, sensors and dried everything out over night but still the same. Gave the sensors a T cut and they have worked for about the last year with no problems and I had the same or very similar issues - just saying as I know sometimes we can get into holes looking for things, just like I did.

Turn the ignition on the first click (no engine running) and turn the wipers on, this will mean the wipers stop in the up position. If open close bonnet, lift wiper blades/arms off the glass as if you were changing them, this will make the arms sit better on the spindle enabling you to use the puller. If they don't pull off keep the puller under tension and give the arms a knock at the base with the spindle with a hammer. Nut can be left on but as is in picture or removed.

This nut holds the alarm into the metal protective box, you can undo the other nut and bend it all downwards giving you some room to hopefully get some purchase on it.

Try giving them a bloody good clean, I had very light overspray on mine which caused a problem.

I had problems when I turned on the passenger side rear fog via the OBD. It worked initially then stopped and it threw up an error. No matter what I did I couldn’t resolve it so just switched it off again. Now just drivers side works but no problems.

Mine is 15 years old and I had one go after about year 3 and then again at say like year 10. Easy to change but be careful as the clips can break the plastic which could mean a new trim, with the main piece being about £50.

You do not need to drill out anything, leave that in situ and you can bend the box it sits in back to access, remove and replace alarm and then push back into place.