numskull

Oh yes, definitely get a wheel with a flat bottom… cos road cars steering wheels are supposed to have that… 🙄 When you can turn lock-to-lock in 180 degrees, like an F1 or rally car, they make sense. When your road cars wheel turns lock-to-lock in 450 degrees’ish (complete guess) from the centre in either direction, I’ve found it to be a bloody nuisance as you turn the wheel, as your palm searches for something that inexplicably, ain’t there.

Nick H/CosmoJ, Ok… Have you ever noticed how many people drive with the steering wheel 20cm from their chest, their arms splayed-out like a spatchcock chicken or with their forearms actually resting flat on the wheel and their legs at a 90 degree angle beside their elbows? Or the ones who are so far back, their arms and legs are straight-out and rigid, holding the wheel like they’re on a white knuckle ride. And then there are those who have their feet off the floor when using the pedals because their seat is too high or those with the seat so low, they look through the wheel to the road ahead? When you ask them why they drive in these contortionist positions they say, well it’s the the way I’ve always done it, it’s the most comfortable for me, or I was taught to sit / hold the wheel / lift my legs like that (WTF…Seriously???). And then you ask them if they get tired quickly, or get pains in their arms, legs or bottom and yep, they all do.

Yeah, I have been happy with all the cars I’ve owned. The SII Superb seats were fine until I had my lower back injury and the discomfort of the seat got worse and worse, especially since it was a manual. And you won’t necessarily find the seating comfortable, even when you’ve driven for 1/2 day in my experience. It can take weeks to find the best driving position and that may not last. If you have an injury during ownership, as in my case, that can also change. But it’s amazing how many people “enjoy” the worst possible seating position!

That’s because they’ve been fully and expertly trained to be Customer Dis-service and Dis-engagement for at least 10 years. It’s a shame.. When Skoda was trying to establish itself as a “proper” manufacturer in the early 2000’s, (we’ve owned Skoda’s since 2003) the whole organisation and most of the dealers were fantastic; they really went the extra mile - and often beyond it - to keep customers happy, getting problems solved quickly some of the time at no cost to the customer, even when it was out of warranty (the whining diff was replaced FOC on our 1.6 Octy is a case in point) and because of this, they were able to use owner-drivers as an extension to the very positive corporate PR campaign. However, as Skoda became more successful, that ethos soon disappeared and they finally became just like any other manufacturer. Actually, they’re probably worse; there’s no acknowledgement of emails, no follow-up, no single person owning an issue and now, stupidly, they couldn’t give a hoot if you bad mouth them to friends and family. Sad really as the product is great but they just don’t care, as 80% of sales are now in the corporate market and probably 70% of those are via leasing or contract hire. After my terrible experience with two dealers last year AND two dealers this, I’ve given up on them and will just be using a fairly local, excellent independent VW specialist.

I’ve had a left sacroiliac joint injury for more than six years and due to that, I had to change the MKII once I was able to afford it as the seats became unbearable. I’ve found the Superb MKIII seats to be as good as the MKI, in which I drove more than 30,000 miles a year and we still have today. Seats are a very personal thing and I’ve driven and had more cars than most, having worked for two car rental companies for more than 20 years. I had a new cocar every three months and was driving a different car every day when I was in operations. I found the Ford Mondeo seats of all models to be really uncomfortable, Mercedes seats were great (some find them too hard) but I could never get comfortable in any BMW I drove. Getting the seat position is the most important thing and the guide Budster posted is excellent. It’s amazing how the smallest change can make a massive improvement.

Yeah, probably me being dimwit or not concentraiting properly. I'll give it another go later.

Unfortunately, neither suggestion worked for me. When I changed the value to 100 on your version and tried to save it, it said the value was out of range. The other version supplied by Gizmo also didn't work because I couldn't find the field "Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9 (Front left eyelashes)" so couldn't go any further.

Yep, they’re B Type units.

Go to Block 36 And in Byte 3, set Bit 1. Save and Exit VCDS, turn off the ignition then turn it back on. Reset your seat position by pressing “Set” and 1 til it “Dongs”. Turn off ignition and (take out the key if non KESSY) the seat should retract about 10 cm.

Cheers… I’ll report back later this morning (it’s 05.28 and dark!).

Don’t think Skoda Connect is good for anything, but it might work in your case!

Thanks for the info mate. No idea what the part number is one our 280. I’ll see if I can find it in a VCDS log which I collected a few weeks ago.

Didn’t with mine.

Fantastic! Thank you Gizmo! 👍🏻

I’ve tried searching without luck, so would someone kindly post the coding to enable the whiskers to operate with the DLR’s please? We have a 2016 L&K with them fitted. Many thanks in advance.

Yep. I noticed it at the bottom of the very long down hill section of the A6 Glen Shane Road, going from Derry to Belfast, between the Ponderosa and Oak Leaf restaurants. It drops about 800 feet in 3 miles. Having read all your suggestions, I guess it could be hot fluid related rather than a mechanical problem, as a couple of miles on and it had gone.

The front and rear anti-roll bar bushes are creaking and squeaking like billyo again, having been replaced just a year ago under warranty; I now fear sleeping Policepersons! 😁

Good. Just be vary careful and gentle; you want the trim to go round the curve, not off it!

Thanks Wino and Chazzy. Hmmmm. So the same single pot brake calipers are used on a 1.4 Kodiaq (and no doubt others) and a 280? I raised the question following driving on one long downhill stretch of road, and there was definitely brake fade, which was quite worrying. I note the Mk7 R has practically the same caliper.. well, it’s a single pot floating unit, which I’d doubt is any more effective. I’ll investigate options for replacements.

No one?

I’ll check the last scan I did of the 280 and see if I can find it. It’s a December ‘15 build ‘16MY car, so I suppose it could have either.

Great.

If there’s a “visible blockage” (presume it’s a clear pipe then?) and this can be unblocked, wouldn’t it be better to find out the cause, given they’ve unblocked it before? Does the £200+ they’ve quoted for the motor include the removal/ installation labour, or is that another £100/150?

Get a soft block of wood, like pine, about 10cm long and 3cm wide, place it on the end of the trim and gently tap it with a rubber mallet. It only needs to be moved about 3 to 4mm.

@AndyCr15 Have you reset the head to factory? Have you now downloaded the manuals? I ask as they’re a lot easier to view than fumbling with a physical book. You’ll need the Infotainment manual too.