Everything posted by numskull
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ATE Ceramic Front Brake Pads - Skoda and Other VAG - NOW SOLD
NOW SOLD
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ATE Ceramic Front Brake Pads - Skoda and Other VAG - NOW SOLD
@GREEBO_22 Thanks very much for that; I didn’t know that was an option and I’m sure many others didn’t either. 🙏 This was user error at the time and I’ve now sourced the correct pads at a cheaper price than Autodoc from Spareto in Estonia. They have very good feedback on Trustpilot. We’ll see how that turns out.
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ATE Ceramic Front Brake Pads - Skoda and Other VAG - NOW SOLD
Thanks. I’ll PM you, Keith. 👍🏻
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ATE Ceramic Front Brake Pads - Skoda and Other VAG - NOW SOLD
Hi Keith, You have double-checked they will fit your car? If so, great. I can send via Evri. Cost will be around £6 I think. You can pay on PayPal? Let me know if that works for you. Cheers… Rob
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Display showing boot open when closed and warning chime sounding when driving - Skoda Superb MK3 SE with power boot
True and I’ve fitted those “CANbus friendly guaranteed not to trip a warning” in the past and of course they’ve still caused the same issue and, TBH, I’m not prepared to pay the £35-odd difference for the ones at Kopeck to stop an occasional “bong” when the glovebox is opened. I know, I can’t help it! Yep, those’ll be the one I have and still have the same issue. 🙄 Yep, I live with that too!
- Display showing boot open when closed and warning chime sounding when driving - Skoda Superb MK3 SE with power boot
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ATE Ceramic Front Brake Pads - Skoda and Other VAG - NOW SOLD
Title says it all. I ordered these back in April and went to have them fitted on Friday only to discover that… A. They’re the wrong ones, and B. Autodoc only give you 14 days from date of receipt to return them. Thanks very much for that. 🙄They cost me £90 and selling for 1/2 price, so £45. These give better braking power and produce almost zero dust which is primarily why I wanted to change from the standard pads, as I’m sick of cleaning the alloys! The ATE part number is 13.0470-2785.2. They will fit Skoda and VAG vehicles including some Superb builds with the following OE part numbers. Apologies for the weird formatting… 8V0 698 151 S 5Q0 698 151 5Q0 698 151 A 5Q0 698 151 AD BVO 698 151 B 5QO 698 151 D 500 698 151 AA 5Q0 698 151 AH 5Q0 698 151 AF 8V0 698 151 G
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What have you done to your Superb III today?
Nick, Can I ask where is the connector is located for the strut and how do you access it to dis/reconnect it?
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No cooling on back seat
Yes Lee. Heating and only on the outer seats too. They’ve never produced a Superb with cooled rear seats as there’s no gap under the seat base to fit the fans or to allow the disposal of the air. The system draws the air through and thereby away from the seat base rather than blowing it through, which what the wife’s Kona EV does.
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Something is killing my battery - where should I look?
Sounds like the battery is failing. Do you have breakdown cover with the AA /RAC? If so they’ll come out and check it.
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Please help me solve my problem
Really? Have they all replaced it then to confirm their flat-out statements? With the time and effort you’ve invested so far, and the original battery being close to EOL, I’d just replace it. It got to that stage with the factory battery on our car and I waited too long and found it dead one morning. In Ireland. 🙄
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Heated windscreen, or maybe not?
Feckin autocorrect… 😂
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Heated windscreen, or maybe not?
The heated screen used on VAG kit do not have filaments. They have a silver layer in the sandwich which heats and deforests the screen.
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Stage 2 saga update- good, bad and ugly
@MarioVrs Absolutely love that exhaust stack!
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Air conditioning
SWMBO Focus went for 23 years before it needed to be regassed. The MKI Superb was a year old when we bought it in 06 and the AC didn’t work. Had it re-gassed and it was still fine when I sold it in ‘21. The 280 had a leak at the top joint of the condenser about 4 years ago so a year out of warranty, so it was re-gassed then. But 2nd borns 1 year old Hyundai Kona EV AC failed at 6 months and it was empty, so it was re-gassed a couple of months ago and it’s already failed again, so there has to be leak. He’s booked it in under warranty. Only a 10 week wait but only two more to go.
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I have a couple of hatchback accessories to give away
I’ve got the boot mat, Lee. It’s excellent.
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Chrome trim How much!!!!!!!
I had some creep on the NS when I first got the car. I whacked it back with a rubber mallet and it’s been stationary since then. Never had an issue with the OS.
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The 280PS Thread
Spot on, well done UTR. It’s a 2004 A209 CLK500. It was gifted to me by our son who’s gone fully EV. This is a long term project, albeit I’ve already spent > £3k fixing MOT failure bits and others that annoyed me - meant the dash out for two of those! Back on topic now….!
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The 280PS Thread
Cleaned the Sahara Desert off the 280 today. Didn’t realise how dirty it was! Also cleaned my wife’s Focus MK1.5 and our latest money pit too. Anyone want to take a guess as to make / model? (NO - NOT YOU TRAVS!😂).
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The 280PS Thread
I have a Racechip,XLR Throttle Controller too and it’s amazing. I also have a Racechip GTS Black. Love that too. However, the XLR made the biggest immediate change. When I first got the 280, it did get bogged-down on many occasions. Now it doesn’t.. ever.
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The 280PS Thread
I came to the 280 from a MKII Superb CR170. Whilst it appeared to’ve had more torque than the 280, it did not, with both delivering 258lbft. However the diesel peaks between 1750-2500 rpm and that short peak is what gives you that “kick in the back” feeling. However, the petrol engine delivers it in a more linear way between 1700-5600 rpm so it’s less of a kick and more of a longer push. And of course, the 0-60 times are 8.4s vs 5.5s.
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I have a wet belt engine!!
….and perhaps find out why it’s consuming so much oil too?
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Battery change
I should add I know this to be true, as I used it to trickle charge the 280 during Covid, and kept the battery In perfect condition in the Superb MKI which sat in the garden for three years before we sold it.
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Battery change
The one in the boot is permanent live.
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The 280PS Thread
Hmmm. Perhaps reading all this, I should move to a lower 0-20 oil, given the low mileage and low distances I cover on my daily commute. and perhaps especially even at -5 in the winter, the engine will get to 90c, the oil doesn’t even register its temperature. Opinions?