numskull

I had some creep on the NS when I first got the car. I whacked it back with a rubber mallet and it’s been stationary since then. Never had an issue with the OS.

Spot on, well done UTR. It’s a 2004 A209 CLK500. It was gifted to me by our son who’s gone fully EV. This is a long term project, albeit I’ve already spent > £3k fixing MOT failure bits and others that annoyed me - meant the dash out for two of those! Back on topic now….!

Cleaned the Sahara Desert off the 280 today. Didn’t realise how dirty it was! Also cleaned my wife’s Focus MK1.5 and our latest money pit too. Anyone want to take a guess as to make / model? (NO - NOT YOU TRAVS!😂).

I have a Racechip,XLR Throttle Controller too and it’s amazing. I also have a Racechip GTS Black. Love that too. However, the XLR made the biggest immediate change. When I first got the 280, it did get bogged-down on many occasions. Now it doesn’t.. ever.

I came to the 280 from a MKII Superb CR170. Whilst it appeared to’ve had more torque than the 280, it did not, with both delivering 258lbft. However the diesel peaks between 1750-2500 rpm and that short peak is what gives you that “kick in the back” feeling. However, the petrol engine delivers it in a more linear way between 1700-5600 rpm so it’s less of a kick and more of a longer push. And of course, the 0-60 times are 8.4s vs 5.5s.

….and perhaps find out why it’s consuming so much oil too?

I should add I know this to be true, as I used it to trickle charge the 280 during Covid, and kept the battery In perfect condition in the Superb MKI which sat in the garden for three years before we sold it.

The one in the boot is permanent live.

Hmmm. Perhaps reading all this, I should move to a lower 0-20 oil, given the low mileage and low distances I cover on my daily commute. and perhaps especially even at -5 in the winter, the engine will get to 90c, the oil doesn’t even register its temperature. Opinions?

I’d go for it then.

Personally, I’d wait. You need a list of must haves and try to stick to it. Is this around the maximum budget you have? I recognise that pre-owned vehicles have appreciated since I bought the 280 L&K in 2020. And of course, insurance premiums have practically doubled since then, yet settlements have remained stubbornly low. Odd that. I knew what I wanted. It had to be an L&K and it had to be a 280. I was lucky. I “knew” the first 280 owner from Briskoda, it was 4 years old with 20k, FSSH, huge amount of extras and with 13 months Skoda warranty remaining, I had all that it for £19k from a really great independent. I still love it and am still amazed by its performance. So every day, I just keep my fingers crossed neither I nor another idiot come into contact. The reason is, apart from potentially injury or death, I’ll have zero chance of getting a like-for-like replacement, let alone one that comes even close to mine in terms or mileage or spec, and to cap it all, they’ll probably offer a £6k settlement. That’s why when, hopefully, it hits 60k, I’ll be garaging it and keeping it for dry weekends. I think this is going to be a classic.

Is this just the accelerator pedal?

IMHO, I think it’s about £2k too much, especially as you have a £1k of work due now.

So the connection to the sub, or the sub itself is different in earlier cars?

That appears to be identical to the Ali CN one I installed last week.

Sorry? The was achieved just by reversing the polarity of the sub?

Worth a try. It was a bit disconcerting, having the seat suddenly move but it saved me pointlessly spending anywhere from £80 to £300 (oh yes; on eBay one CAN spend more for a used part than for new!) for a replacement module so for that I’m very grateful!

It does.

Mine does, but I do a LOT of very short journeys. Mind you, only around a 1/4 ltr. in 2/3k.

Yep, you know this to be true, Lee!

Since I moved to an excellent Indy, it’s had Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 which meets VW 502 00.

Washed the 280 for the first time in a couple of months. Bloody Sahara dust. It’d stopped beading so it needed a new coating of ceramic wax. I use Turtle Wax Ceramic. I also replaced the air quality sensor with a Chinese “copy” (are they, or are they actually pattern parts?) unit I bought from Ali two or three years ago, as I knew it’d fail at some point. I think it was £13, maybe less. Anyway it works perfectly.

So, an update. On Tuesday afternoon I was going to change the air quality sensor so, as I always do when changing something, I disconnected the battery. Unfortunately, I ran out of time, so I left the battery disconnected overnight. I replaced the sensor and reconnected the battery in the morning and cleared the normal illuminations on the dash. After about 15 mins of driving, I heard the confirmation “bong” for something and my seat then moved to my saved driving position. No idea if the battery disconnection reset the seat module, especially as it’s probably not a permanent live unit. Still, it’s up-and-running again so that’s a ridiculous sum saved for a new or used module and a contortionist job avoided to replace it!

Cheers JS 👍🏻

Unfortunately, I don’t but thanks for the offer. 🙏