xman

I think the same spark plug is used in all EA211 (cambelt) engines with turbo. So the same for all 1.0tsi, 1.2tsi, 1.4tsi, not certain about the 1.5tsi though. Double platinum Bosch plug as above. If you buy from Eurocarparts, don't forget to apply the discount code which will fetch the price down to about £10 each. Free delivery, and you can return them for a full refund anytime up to 365 days after purchase provided they are unopened of course, no quibble, thats a great thing about ECP. So you can keep them in your boot just in case, if you want you could keep returning them year after year and repurchasing! The price quoted by your dealer indicates they live in cloud cuckoo land and don't deserve your business.

You live in France.....case closed m'lud....

How is that possible? With Kessy, it shouldn't be possible? With a conventional remote, maybe locked with door/boot open and threw the key inside before closing. Perhaps the OP if he's around will kindly explain what happened. To answer OP's question though, call Skoda Assistance on 0800 526 625 and they will.....assist!

None of this DSG rubbish for me too!

Swap coilpack 1 and coilpack 3 and see if misfire moves. IME almost always faulty coilpack. Can sometimes take take a couple of restarts and a bit of revving to clear the fault down and resume fuelling on faulted switched off cylinder. If a faulty coilpack is confirmed, you should have 2 good ones in the 3 you pulled (you said you replaced them all). Check you bought the correct coilpack type for the engine (CPGA)

I've not seen any problems running the Bosch plugs instead of the original NGK on a 2011 CBZC 105ps 1.2tsi, which is basically the same engine as yours.

Not sure he'll still carry on posting his acheivements in the 272 thread, ....have Karoq will travel....

And 560Nm available from 1000 rpm which is where he mainly cruises. (36mph average as above pic)

Mentioned in another thread, Bilstein now have B6 DCC compatible shocks available for the Superb.

Sadly I don't qualify, nor does George for your latest geatest mega posting thread cum contest. I trust you will be offering the odd Disney toy to runner ups as you must regularly stop them escaping in your line of duty.

Is this a contest? Or is it like the First Word (anti dementia) thread? Will you run a leaderboard? (With you at the top naturally) Whats the prize?

For information: The Bosch plugs are different to the OE NGK plugs in that the Bosch have a resistance of 6k ohms and gap of 0.8mm whereas the NGK are 1k ohm and set to 0.7mm gap. Don't think it should make much difference though. The Bosch are supposedly OE on Seat Ibiza versions of this engine.

Probably no.3 lead had gone open circuit (common) and those connections (2+3) were getting far higher voltages than normal leading to those deposits. Would have eventualy broken down and killed the coil.

Just a simple point, its important never to overfill the engine oil, check when hot, the level on the dipstick should lie within the hatched zone on the dipstick. I tend to stay a bit under, say 75% as I notice most of our engines are not installed level but tend to drop at the gearbox end. Overfilling oil can lead to churn and excessive oil mist and pressure that could overwhelm the oil seperator and finds its way though the pcv and into the intake, ultimately into the cat/exhaust. Have you checked the battery voltage during a cold start, just in case its low?

That's normal for this engine. The waste spark ignition system means plugs fire in pairs, 1+4 and 3+2, one plug in each pair has a positive current flow and the other has a negative current flow, so one will wear the ground electrode, while its partner wears the centre electrode. The plugs have an iridium alloy centre electrode (very tough) and a platinum alloy disc on the ground electrode (less tough and tends to fall off eventually, leaving a bare ground electrode. On our engines, the worn ground electrodes were always on cylinder 1 (left side) and cylinder 3. Are you sure your leads are correctly configured?

Didn't quite catch that Shy........how many mpg are you getting......do keep telling us......I have a tendency to forget after an hour or two, I wonder why?

If the LED does not match the characteristic of the "bulb", i.e. draw the expected current, you will get a bulb out warning on the dash. 2 ways around this, either use a " Canbus friendly LED" which is a led with a parallel resistor (that probably gets effing hot) or code the car to accept led replacement using VCDS or other tool. Not sure, but the led may have to match the OEM led closely as its still monitored for failure.

My car 2018 1.4 SEL Hatch with DCC 235/45 R18 I drive like a grandad mostly, I'm a grown up now. After 2.5 years, yes the suspension is very disappointing. DCC makes only subtle difference between modes. Unless you knew you would not detect the difference. My son who drives 20k miles a year couldn't until I showed him. Normal = simply the best compromise Comfort mostly not much difference from Normal. But if you go over a speed hump you notice its bounce is not controlled, it continues well past the half cycle that it should control. Basically damping is very much reduced. With a road that has, what rail engineers call cyclic top, a series of dips and crests, even quite slight, it can get very hairy, very quickly and uncontrolled as it hits the natural frequency of the suspension Sport = reminds you just how crap the road is. It doesn't seem to offer much in the way of improved handling, just you can hear and feel all the little bumps far more. Makes me feel sick and tired after a short while. To me this car has obviously been set up for high speed motorway driving, it really starts to feel great at speeds of 80mph+ but that of course is illegal and licence robbing speed in the UK. Its not too bad if it hits a bump, provided its on both sides straight on and going fast enough. But if you are go over a speed hump on just one side, its not pleasant, I think the arb has some blame here. If the road conditions make left and right sides do things out of sync over a certain level of unevenness, it gets messy. In its defence, DCC does seem to assist sudden changes in direction and taking corners at reasonable speeds, more than a simple arb would. And thats regardless of mode. Very little lean. Maybe thats the Dynamic bit of DCC. All in all it's a noisy affair, road roar is loud and constant (P7) and highly surface dependent. Road joints, manhole covers etc usually are loud slapping affairs. Potholes do bang loudly and can be very disturbing, but I doubt its the suspension bottoming, its just that the front setup in particular is not well isolated from the body. Stupid low profiles just make it worse, would not buy a car with 45 or less profile again. In summary, its a large barge with big armchairs on squidgy springs/dampers and in my case, hard wheels/tyres. Its size and wheelbase is never going to make it sporty, not that that interests me a great deal. Road noise and a tendency to wallow are its most annoying traits for me. There is a short stretch of the M1 somewhere near Sheffield where everything is bliss, super silence and calm, sadly less than a mile or two. If only all UK roads were like that.

There should be two nylon adjusters, usually white, visible on the top of each headlight. Adjustable with an allen key. One adjusts up/down and the other left/right. Stand your car on level facing a wall or a garage door with dipped beam. Make sure the level control inside the car (on the dash near the light switch) is set to maximum height. Mark the top level on the wall at least a couple of metres away for reference. Then try adjusting. Can't help as to which is which adjuster as I dont have a rapid. Don't go daft or force them if they become stiff, they may be at their limits and you can easily break something internally which would be expensive.

No It refers to the fact you have some more LED driven lights. High functionality means the inner bits on the boot lid now light up as well (with LED), the number plate lights are LED and possibly the front indicators use the drl led strips instead of an incandescent lamp and so on. Even with the high functionality option you may still have some old fashioned lamp bulbs e.g. rear indicator/stop/reverse (as in the case of my Superb high functionality) Its a marketing/trim term.

Explained in this pdf SSP-510_Active_Cylinder_Management_ACT_in_the_1_4_l_103_kW_TSI_engine.pdf

@Sunny_Kay please report them using the DVSA link. They are obliged under the MOT regulations to keep printed results for a minimum of 3 months and make copies avaible to the customer. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/complain-about-an-mot They need to be held to account. Depending on the DVSA response you will be entitled to a refund.

It might be as you say, the oil seperator not doing its job properly. Check the pcv (positive crankcase valve) system is not blocked and causing over pressure in the crankcase. I wonder if its worth trying to clean with some engine flush, although it may very well cause even more problems, so maybe not. Could be piston ring wear, excessive blow by and crankcase pressure. Wet/dry compression checks will reveal. No ideas about numbers. But check they are balanced. Clue might be cylinder 1, loose plug could be the problem cylinder? Maybe see if you remove the oil filler cap, or alternatively the dipstick, you can feel/see air blowing out.

I had my initial test drive in a 2.0tdi dsg superb and the salesman demonstrated, with ACC engaged, how the car could slow down by itself, changing down gear to a complete halt whilst following a car slowing down to traffic lights at red. It did so and was quite impressive. However, he smiled at me nervously as he was demonstrating while using the words, "hopefully this works...." and said he kept his foot over the brake just in case.... When the lights turned green and the car in front moved off, the car set off on its own and accelerated away under ACC (not sure if he stabbed the accelerator to initiate it). This, I presume, is Traffic jam assist in action. I dont have dsg so I can only comment that its fairly predictable if I'm travelling say 20 mph+, and the car in front is closer than maybe 15m turns sharp left onto a side road it often triggers the alarm. If you are too close (which is not that close), the brakes then come on full whack as evidenced by the ABS cutting in on my crap P7 tyres. Done this twice, but as soon as the car cleared, normal service was restored, so far only 1 second duration braking. Did it once on a motorway when I was passing a rather large Mercedes ML class 4x4 (on the correct side), I think the Mercedes started moving to the left lane just as I was about to pass. Was a WTF moment. On at least one occasion when I got a little too close the car in front ( >25mph) when following in a relatively straight road (no one turning) the alarm has gone off and if I was too slow to react (maybe 2 secs) then the car started braking, but in a controlled manner before I took over. ACC was not on in this case. I think the answer to your question is it depends if the car thinks a crash is imminent. Skoda rear traffic alert