xman

10yr old will be a mk2 fabia, 16yr old will be a mk2. You should always buy on condition, mileage means nothing if its been neglected, not serviced well or run on too tight a budget. I'm inclined to think a mk2 is a better car than a mk1, going on experience.

Just for information, the fixed interval year used to be 372 days on the service indicator, it is now 365 days on my MY18 Superb (checked after every service) I suppose for dealers that is "simply simple and a little bit more money clever"

Skoda UK talk about 10,000 mile intervals, but the Manufacturer works in 15,000 km intervals which on the car's service indicators works out at 9400 or 9300 miles depending on model, I've see both after reset. The point being 10,000-9400=600 mile difference minimum. Where the warranty quoted earlier allowed only 500 miles. So which is used for warranty purposes? And some people would be better off on variable 18,600/2 year intervals to stop breaching that condition.

It very much depends on the particular warranty that the car has and when it was put in place, you need to refer to the t&c of the particular cover that was applied. There are many variants, manufacturer warranty, dealer warranty, approved used warranty, extended warranty, maybe even aftermarket warranty. The skoda warranties get t&cs updated every few months so you need to dig out original t&cs I have just taken out an extended warranty (all component cover through skoda financial services) and on reading its specific t&cs it appears to have some ambitious get out clauses which I have highlighted below. Not sure if that is entirely legal, how can a late oil change void all the warranty, e.g. sure if my engine blows up but what if my wiper motor stopped working? Since I took it out a fortnight ago, the t&cs have been revised yet again for policies taken out after April 1. The other issue is that you can choose between fixed and variable interval services, can be 2yr/20,000 mile, 2yr/18600 miles, 1yr/10000 miles, 1yr/9400 miles......which is the manufacturer's service schedule they have in mind?

There'd been several times over the years when our Fabia ii suddenly without warning, loses the ability to close or move some of its windows. Its usually on a warm day, I've parked up, cranked down one or more windows part way. Then after a while, wanting to close them, turn on ignition and they won't move from the switches. Sometimes I can get individual windows closed by using the local switches, or sometimes use the key in the drivers lock held in lock position to close them, but it doesn't always work, and there doesnt seem to be a pattern. Then if I go for a drive, or just leave the car locked, after a few minutes they mysteriously start to work again, with no further problems for weeks or months. It is rare, doesn't happen very often, but definitely a real and random occurence, and sometimes its only one window, sometimes more thats affected, different each time. I put it down to a software/module/CANBUS glitch. Not sure what modules there are in or what they're called, but maybe its to do with body/convenience functions, central locking or CANBUS. You mentioned OBD port wasn't working so it could be CANBUS related, a dicky module or wiring/connector, not necessarily one directly associated with the windows. As it always comes back to normal after a few minutes at most, I just live with it. Once, when I parked somewhere in Sheffield and I really needed to leave the car unattended and the windows refused point blank to close, I did think about disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. But the wife then came back so instead I just drove off with windows down and voila, again after a few minutes, normal service was restored. You need to get the OBD port working methinks and scan for errors.

Styrofoam is transparent to radar as it doesn't reflect em waves..... I don't think pedestrians can be seen by the front assist radar either. You need "front assist with pedestrian protection" which has only recently been introduced across VAG, i think it uses the (appropriate) windscreen mounted camera to detect pedestrians, not sure its available for Skodas yet and probably will be a paid for option on most models like recently introduced predictive ACC Older cars, the front assist system is to avoid collisions with cars travelling in front of you, not stationery objects such as street furniture. Iirc starting with MY18 for Superbs, the parking sensors provide an anti collision function at slow speeds and close distance, these are ultrasonic sensors and can detect a pedestrian. https://www.skoda.co.uk/news/details/skoda-assistanec-systems-enhance-safety

Probably unrelated, on another forum (can't remember, I came across it via google) a guy with a 1.5tsi car (not a skoda) having horrible hesitation/jerking problems after his car had been stood a long while during lockdown mentioned he finally turned off the front assist, and all other assists and his car seemed to sort itself out. Concluded it might have been a radar unit or assist issue causing the car to jerk badly. Could be worth a try I suppose if you have similar symptoms.

Your profile indicates you have a 2012 Fabia 1.2 That would make it a Mk2 Fabia and not a Mk3, so wrong forum As advised above, get hold of a code reader to see whats putting the EML on. Could be something as simple as a worn spark plug/failing ignition coil pack/faulty ignition lead. OBD code readers are available from as little as £20 from places like Euro Car Parts, might be cheaper than asking a garage to do it.

He has a photographic memory, so can presumably recall URLs on demand.

I think @peter3197 is right. But may still be worth trying recharging before throwing the battery away. https://www.moll-batterien.de/dateien/pdfs/Datenblaetter_Batterien/MOLL_startstop_engl.pdf Key to looking after stop/start batteries is to recharge them with an external charger from time to time, especially if the car is not used a lot. So I recommend you invest in a good charger

So are you going to go for it?

Found this ref motorcraft batteries but probably same as for Moll So low charge.... What has probably happened is the battery self discharge over winter has led the battery management system state of charge calcs (SOC) to get out of whack, as it can't track self discharge current. So you need to recharge the battery fully, preferably using an external means. If you have a decent charger try recharging it first, a good 2–3 days will be required to fully recharge a lead acid battery, particularly if it has been partially discharged for an extended period. Take care to follow the instructions on the manual regarding charger connection. The negative lead MUST go on the earth tab at the bodywork end of the batteries negative lead. Alternatively, when driving, always turn on your headlights, overide any auto setting (last position) and maybe other consumers such as fan, heated rear window. This will force the battery management to charge the battery instead of allowing it drift along in micro hybrid mode. It will still take a long time for the battery to return to full SOC. Good luck

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=133257

The water pump on EA211 engines is a complicated and expensive bit of kit housing 2 thermostats iirc and certainly costs a lot more than £100. It would require removal of several hoses and draining/refilling coolant if it were changed. So check that price, it may not apply to your car, or it may be simply to replace the small drive belt that runs the water pump. The small drive belt is like a very small mini timing belt, the kind of belt found in some hoovers. Its not under a lot of stress and if it were to break, it wouldn't be disastrous, you'd obviously lose cooling and the temperature gauge would indicate a problem.

Over twice as much as my Superb petrol 1.4 manual! Might be because yours is Diesel, DSG, 4x4 maybe and already covered 30,000 miles (mine had only 6,000 miles) and its a more expensive vehicle. Or maybe Kodiaqs are generally more expensive to repair or more unreliable than Superbs, who knows..... Also the difference with excess is a lot more than I was quoted. One thing to note is the terms and conditions have been changed several times over the last few years. The latest change is effective from today 1st April. No idea what has changed but previous terms are available to download if someone could be arsed to compare. Probably more exclusions and conditions.

I've always kept cars from new for a minimum of 10 years and never considered taking out an extended warranty. But over the last couple of years and reading about various issues experienced by Briskoda members I started to get nervous about the expensive tech fitted on my Superb. Even something simple as a faulty folding mirror, led light cluster, electric boot strut , etc would cost hundreds to fix, never mind infotainment, ACC, turbo etc. which could easily be £1000+, an engine or gearbox might be thousands. So before it was too late I checked out the Skoda extended warranty, expecting it to be expensive. It was actually surprisingly dead easy to get a quote online https://insurewithskoda.co.uk/extended-warranty/ Mine came back at £182 for thee all component cover option, zero excess and up to 15,000 miles. Which is about half of what the factory extended cover would have cost had I taken it at point of delivery. Interestingly the price is the same to start cover any time up to 30 days after the original vehicle warranty expires so you could in theory delay it 30 days - sort of effectively 13 months cover. When I put a start date in that was past the 30 day limit, the premium quoted doubled. Do download and read the booklet carefully though, it's full of all sorts of exclusions and get outs. It must be a sudden failure, there is no breakdown cover included etc. It is not transferrable if you sell the car and you must maintain a full service history to Skoda requirements using all the right stuff, which to most people probably means main dealer servicing. On the basis that virtually any failure costs more than the premium, I thought it was probably worth it though I do realise it has its limitations. From what others have posted, they invite you to renew annually and it looks as if the cost remains roughly the same each year, (presumably if you havent claimed.) It is a Skoda financial services insurance product, backed by Volkswagen something or other, its all in the booklet.

You bought both cars less than 3 months ago and you were not covered by a dealer warranty? Surely the Consumer Act 2015 gives you legal rights up to 6 months..... As you happened to mention the dealer involved........I won't say any more apart from I'm not at all surprised.

But which engine are you/they talking about? IME 1.2 HTP 3 cylinder engines (no turbo) are very robust 1.2 tsi 4 cylinder engines (turbo) have known issue with camchains

Skodas when delivered from the factory are filled with 0w-20 grade oil to VW508 spec. This is super thin eco oil that optimises fuel consumption and emissions. When you have your car serviced at a Skoda dealer, it is quite likely it will be refilled with 5w-30 grade oil to VW 504 spec. Or if you are on or switched to fixed servicing regime and have a dealer like mine it will be refilled with 5w-40 or maybe even 10w-40 grade to VW502. Reason they give me is the Skoda service computer printout tells them to use VW502 oil (real reason is it saves them £5 or so) The result is my car now returns around 5% less mpg on long runs and even less on short runs (upper 30's opposed to upper 40's) On both services (bought as a plan with new car), so far, my dealer ignored verbal and written instructions from me regarding oil grade to use. The 1.5tsi engine is specifically designed to use vw 508 oil, so make sure the dealer uses that when its serviced, if you want best fuel economy.

No, they are classed as wear and tear. Covered for 6,500 miles/6 months under factory warranty, no cover at all under the extended Skoda warranty https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/warranty Don't even ask how much they cost to replace...... I have DCC but find the difference in modes too subtle, just too bouncy/uncontrolled over speed bumps in Comfort, too bone jiggling over rough roads in Sport. Spends all time in Normal for me. Not really worth the £1000 I paid.

With car batteries, bigger isnt necessarily better Neither is AGM vs EFB Recharging to 100% often and regularly is key to maintaining all lead acid batteries in prime condition, thereby stopping permanent and irreversible hard sulphation forming and slowly losing capacity. A decent charger is one that does a proper float/maintenance mode after bulk/absorption charging, at a constant 13.5 volts + temp comp. IME it takes 2+ days continuous charging to top off the final 5-10%. Tanya is worth a look for batteries

The high pitched hum for a minute will be the electric aux coolant pump, which continues to pump coolant to cool the turbo bearing for approx one minute after shutdown. If you look at the coolant reservoir you will notice the coolant being returned. It does this on shutdown regardless of engine temperature btw. I still think you still need to go through the diagnostic adaption routine. It would highlight if the shim you have fitted is the incorrect thickness or even is not required. An incorrect shim will cause it to go into limp mode. The youtube video I posted suggests that by repeating the sequence of turning on ignition, waiting for the actuator to go through its initialisation then turning off ignition, around 15 times, will be sufficient to re-adapt. You could try but I have my doubts, as I understand it, you probably first need to establish if the shim thickness is correct by running VCDS adaption and checking the voltages returned by the actuator's position sensor are within limits.

You need to carry out the wastegate adaption using VCDS. Alternatively you could always try this

Just a few suggestions as to what it may be Wastegate may be sticking when getting hot due to thermal expansion of the shaft in the turbo housing. The 2011 year had a TPI issued - requiring a shim fitting between the actuator and turbo housing so the wastegate travel was correct. Check on ERWIN for the recall and if so whether the shim is fitted. Have you adapted the new actuator after fitting woth VCDS. Not sure whats involved but it needs adapting to endure the actuator position is calibrated. Is the actuator the correct part? There are variants with different rod lengths. Is it a genuine, really new actuator or a buffed up s/h part bought on ebay? Have you got the receipt? Could be just another faulty actuator. This may be of help 7zOC0B2.pdf

Following comments here and with some further testing, I can confirm what others have suggested as an alternative. Hard braking whilst reversing at a fair speed applies the rear brakes in priority to the front, so also useful for cleaning up the rear discs. Makes sense that leading brakes are used depending on direction of travel. Obviously this method is a going to be a bit gentler than using EPB (forwards) at speed, depending on how fast you reverse and how hard you brake. Obviously its more dangerous to reverse at speed especially on a public toad but less dramatic without the mysterious fart from ABS or whatever. I would recommend some cleaning is done regularly as once the disc corrosion gets to certain level, it may be difficult to restore them to an acceptable condition. A little often rather than a lot all at once.