mbames

Have a look at the recent threads about swimming pools for an idea where to check for leaks!

I would expect that the lights behind the centre console have burnt out. This was certainly the case on my parents mk3 Astra (L reg) - I have replaced the bulbs a few times as they are on all the time the ignition is on. I should say this is a guess, as I have a climatronic unit on 2001 old girl (with 222,222miles on the clock)

Why not try locking the car, but with the passenger door disconnected? That might help to show if the problem is with the central locking or the passenger door.

If the black cable is getting hot, then I would check the crimp connections at both ends. It may be possible that some Octys might have a thinner (lower current rated) alternator cable (no idea if this is the case, but worth checking that if you source a cable from the scrappy that it is of >= thickness to that of the existing cable).

Do you get full travel on the actuator (about 1cm, iirc), maybe it part-sticky.... The engine code should reveal what turbo is fitted. It is 3 letters long and on the service book as well as the sticky label on the boot floor (probably AGR or ALH)

Winter = greater load on the electrics if you have headlights, fans, demister, etc turned on. This will cause the weakest point of the system to fail is there are any issues. As for being at Longleat, the tigers caused it... they were hungry ;-)

For reference there are 4 drainage points on the sunroof. Both A-pillars and out out the back (in line to where the 6 disk CD changer is mounted (blue pipe). If you open then sunroof and gently tip some water into the rails you can see where it dribbles out onto the ground.

Which door? Front or back? The floor pan slopes towards the rear of the car, so it could be a front one which is failing.... If you extract all of the seatbelt, does any of it feel damp?

The mounting/mirror bases are different so not a direct swap from what I remember.

This is more than likely caused by damaged (or missing) membranes in the doors. Remove the door cards and check the membrane is intact and sealed along the bottom edge.

blocked fuel filter / diesel supply issues

Sounds like typical sticky vanes, but OP seems to be sure it doesn't have that type of turbo, so it must be a early 90 (pre-facelift). Plus he says the actuator on the turbo moves ok. I would consider checking the CTS and MAP next.

If the car rear indicators fail to work when the trailer is connected then that would suggest to me that there was a fault in the trailer wiring. I know you said they worked when attached to another car, but maybe both the trailer and other car are wired up incorrectly. Does the Octy have an additional relay/sounder unit which beeps when the trailer indicators are operational (or should be illuminated)? Is it a factory fit towbar, or 3rd party? If you place a voltmeter across the necessary connectors on the towbar socket and operate the indicators do you see +12v for the left and right bulbs? I am not sure what this microswitch you talk about it?

When my TDI needed a new one I went with a Bosch S5

If none of the green backlight works, then I would initially check dash fuse (not sure which though), might need to consult with Mr Haynes. Maybe F11 or F14? Next I would check the light amplifier/dimmer control next to to the headlight switch. It you remove it from the dash (can't remember how, but a search should reveal the answer) and check for a +12v feed when the sidelights are on, and a varied output upon dial adjustment.

Given the location of the "melt" I would suggest that the normal cause (loose nuts or a poorly crimped cabled) aren't the issue here. I would think that one end of the fuse holder was defective (ie. not gripping the end of the fuse well enough, or the fuse itself was at fault)

Mine is stuck on, so not sure.... Sorry.

If the cambelt was done recently and the noise started after, I would pop back to the garage who did the work and get them to check it out. A failing roller/pulley on the cambelt could be bad news if left unchecked. Loss of PAS isn't too bad, just moving the steering wheel at slow speeds becomes a challenge. I lost mine in the middle of Salisbury when the alternator pulley broke off.

Might be worth popping off the drivers door panel and seeing if the membrane is still intact (and sealed along the bottom). Windscreen been replaced recently?

any dampness on the bottom of the door seals (especially the drivers rear door)

I would check your power management profile settings.

Not to mention the mk4 Golf has the most stupid headlight cluster ever made - I am surprised that loads more are not crashed into given the idiotic positioning of the indicator bulb.

Wow that must be a big leak. The floorpan slopes towards the rear of the car, so generally the first thing you see is the puddle of water under the drivers/passenger seats (even if the point of entry is from the scuttle area). Obviously this assumes the car is parked on the level, etc. Often when aftermarket speakers have been fitted into the doors (or the glass replaced) then the membranes get cut. Had the windscreen replaced recently?

Have a search, is a very common issue. You don't state which side, and if front/rear so harder to give specific advise. However the following should help Check drains from scuttle panel area Check grommet next to pollen filter Check grommet for bonnet release cable Check door seals Check door membranes

I had a feeling that the 12v sockets were controlled by the "window lock" on the drivers door control panel, l so it might be worth checking to see if that switch works (the one which prevents front & rear passengers from opening/closing their windows)