mbames

Looks like if we want "multi-function" rear lights we need to fit different light assemblies, which have 3 pins - ground, +12v perm, +12v door-open

As you have already found - hatch and estate rear door glass is different. £20 does like a good price as it includes delivery. I think I paid something like that when I needed a front passenger piece after some w***er smashed mine to steal some stuff from my car from a scrappy (and I had to remove the glass myself)

I have found that my interior lights want to stay on all the time, so until I can be bothered to look at the problem properly I switched the switch up near the internal mirror to "always off". Not ideal in the winter, but one little extra to ensure your battery won't go flat. Have you checked the fuses on top of the battery, and the cabling to the alternator The crimps is not nice and tight will be a source of resistance (and hence heat), which means the battery won't charge as it should do.

Rob did a guide: http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/RearInteriorLights.htm I have factory fit lights in the rear (of my Elegance) which you manually switch on & off (rather than being linked to the doors).

I put one of the guys on hold while I finished off some plumbing at home. After that waste of 10 minutes we then started the download of a goto my PC client, but I pretended it was only downloading at a few bytes/second..... then my machine BSoD, and we had to wait for it to boot up again... haha, I think I wasted a good 45-60 minutes of his time.

Wow that cleaning method changed your air filter housing too

Just popped mine out, sanded down the spindles and repacked it with grease. It seems to be the spindle which drives the passenger side arm with is most affected by corrosion. I noticed a very slight judder when driving home last night, so figured I might as well give it some TLC before they packed in and I got stranded somewhere!

charge pressure control positive deviation = sticky turbo vanes (probably), won't affect starting valve for intake manifold flap open or short = guess this is the anti-shudder butterfly valve on the EGR assembly. If stuck shut then the car won't start (no air) coolant temperature sensor g62 open circuit/short with power = if the old black sensor these are known to cause problems, replace with a proper green one (don't go with a cheap ebay option). However, not so sure on the lack of fuel. If the filter is bone dry, then pout some diesel into it, these cars don't self prime, and you can kill a battery/starter motor getting diesel to flow again.

Order by surname, that should it quicker? I have 2 phones - mine and works. If I drive for work (during office hours), then I sync the work phone to the car, but otherwise my phone syncs.

That might explain why one of mine is dimmer than the other. It was noticed as a "not-quite-advisory" list last year. Plus I think the plastic lens covers are dirty, but ad above the screws are all rusty. I wonder if I might be able to clean them by taking the internal boot trim off, pulling the bulb holders old and then using a cotton bud....

Oil seals in the turbo starting to fail....?

A bit late for me to chim in (I changed mine a few years ago), but as a "splitter tool" I found a socket mounted allen key worked wonders :-)

You need to see if the actuator arm on the turbo moves freely (when cold) before jumping to any conclusions. I agree to the above re: pulley and aux belt tensioner, as mine failed at St Marks roundabout in Salisbury one morning....

Might be worth checking there isn't a high resistance on the connection cables (thinking possible semi-broken loom where the loom passes through from bodywork into the door.

A sharp smack with a hammer to the starter motor might help.

Also (as a fail safe), once you have lowered the window a bit, some gaffer tape stuck over the top of the door and onto either side of the glass will stop it going anywhere till you are ready for it to move. Do your best not to bend the inner and outer windows rubbers as you will never get them straight again afterwards.

I managed to fit in a ISO loom and my parrot carkit round the back of the back of the HU. Took a bit of fiddling about - even with the glovebox out :-)

mk4 golf

90, 110, 130? The 110 is most definitely not a wastegate, but VNT. Some 90s are VNT (generally the latter ones) and others are wastegate (generally earlier). If VNT, then the chances are the vanes are stuck. If you have semi handy you can remove the exhaust manifold, take the turbo off and clean it. The quick (but less long term, imho) solution is the Mr Muscle trick. Initially you need to to see if the actuator arm moves on the turbo when a vacuum is applied, etc.

Sounds like a wiring issue for the diagnostic socket - so I would check wiring first - at least then you might be able to read off some fault codes.

to be fair, I have changed the cambelt twice (and it was changed before I bought it), and I have no idea if it was ever set up properly. I have just "locked" the pump with a 5.5mm (iirc) drill bit :think: I'll check block 4 tomorrow - assume the engine doesn't need to be warm for that (as I am working from home tomorrow). Thanks for your input so far guys

this post covers a variety of options http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/274193-water-in-drivers-side-rear-footwell/

CTS was genuine VAG - got it from my local Skoda dealer (unless they are selling knocked off tat!) Right, just grabbed these images. It looks my timing is too advanced - I noticed I can't select the engine type with my old version of VAGCOM. Got home after a 60ish mile commute, mostly at NSL, with the last 6 miles at 30ish (through town) before reversing into the garage and connecting up the laptop.

I fitted a green one, pretty sure it used to have a black one (it is still probably rolling around in my glove box).

Grrr.... Got to work, popped into the office for 5 minutes, went back to car with laptop - coolant at 80.1 (phew!). Could not remember what to do, popped back into office - read instructions, went back to car, found the timing option and then the coolant was too cold. Surprised that the coolant temp dropped so quickly, and then the laptop went flat. Not my morning!!! I'll charge it up and try again tonight when I get home, and have an extension cable handy - must only get 5-7 minutes from the laptop (if that) when fully charged :-( Still it was free and it does have a serial port :-)