mbames

Sticky turbo / limp mode is the big issue. Older cars: - dash remembers trip details, etc when ignition turned off/removed (voltage regular/dry joint fault) - broken springs - smooth wipers - damp carpets (especially in the rear) - tension not broken on the aux belt - cambelt (etc) changed on 60k (/3-4 years?) - keys work in the locks (esp tailgate on an estate) Otherwise standard mk1 Octy faults.

Are these suitable for a diesel too? Do they come with the necessary pipework, or do we need to supply that ourselves? If so it would save a lot of money to buy a long roll of pipe, and cut that up and sell it on with the cans. Are the moment I have my elephant mod, which does the job very nicely, but means I can't use my sunroof as the car smells a bit oily (might be because I am using waste water pipe from a couple of washing machines/dishwaters).

The final letter of the part number is the revision. So D would be your best bet....

Check Halfords and see what footpack they recommend, and then look on ebay....

If you don't have roof rails, you will need this lot (I think): http://www.roofracks-roofboxes.co.uk/products/roof-racks---boxes/skoda/octavia-4-d-with-fixpoint-97-04

I assumed it mean it had bought it after the 3k of damage, but has now parted company with the car.. Maybe it was a large boulder in the road....

Search on here for Lofty's Mr Muscle guide. However before doing that check to see how smoothly the actuator on the turbo is. Do you get: - smooth travel - full travel - any creaks & groans - can you push it with your thumb, or do you need to apply a vacuum to make it move The job takes a couple of hours. Basically you remove the EGR recirc pipe and then use some flexi pipe to squity some mr Muscle into the exhaust side of the turbo and then you need to exercise the actuator for the next couple of hours. You will need some socket mounted allen keys to undo the EGR recirc pipe, and you can remove the EGR valve assembly to improve access.

I should say I cleaned my turbo again this morning, and it amazing the difference in performance. You don't notice the performance drop as it gradually fades away, but once vanes in the turbo move freely it is totally transformed!

Generally if cycling the ignition causes the turbo to come back to life, then the car will have dropped into Limp. It does this to protected itself. Normally the cause is sticky vanes in the turbo producing too much boost. Try logging request and actual MAP and see if they follow a smooth and similar shape. In my experience when the turbo is just staring to get sticky, then no faults are logged, but once it becomes worse then the codes start to appear. If the car was slow all the time and cycling the ignition made no difference then contenders would be the MAF, MAP sensor, n75, vacuum leak.

The dampness in the area might have been caused by a junction for the rear washer too.... It has a habit of popping apart and making things wet!

tends to disagree with your next statement: mmm, the turbo dropping out and being restored by cycling the ignition is limp home mode. Mine would do this and early on it never used to log any codes. I am puzzled why you ask a question and then ignore the same answer we are all giving you?

They will fit... but they might not be the correct rate.... However, to be fair the OP only asked if they will fit, not if they will ruin the ride quality or make him crash into the first tree he sees after going over a speed bump

temp light = borked CTS?

Time to get the Mr Muscle out. I am re-treating mine this morning as a few more limps have been occurring. Oddly it was fine over the winter, but since the weather has been a bit warmer it has started to play up again.

If it were brake fluid, then I would expect the system to be almost dry, as only a small amount of fluid would just absorbed into the carpet/sound deadening material. The other possibility is that it is the aircon drain, if the a/c was on prior to parking up and the draining pipework has been dislodged then I have heard of that leaking into the car. However my money is on the compost factory :-)

While you are clearing out the leaves, undo the bottom couple of screws on the rear of the front wheel arch liners and remove the compost collection from in there too. Flush through with a watering can from above.

Sticky vanes in the turbo won't cause that type of rattle / 3 cylinder action. Maybe a sticky injector, or a dodgy sensor. Can you get the fault code read?

Mr Muscle won't do any harm - check to see how the actuator on the turbo moves before hand though. what colour is the exhaust is the exhaust while it sound really rough?

If you pop the switch out you should be able to find the part number on the back. I am not sure if the "wrong" type will work or not. I think I might have borrowed one from my last visit to a scrap yard :-) Welcome to Briskoda, btw.

with a thin cable you might get lucky and push though a straightened out metal/wire coat hanger and the have the wire taped to it it. I think that is what I did (cause I was lazy - even if the glove box is only 5 screws and the cable for the light....)

There is a grommet to the right of the pollen filter under the scuttle panel, but make sure you seal it well, as all the water run-off from the passenger side of the windscreen goes over it. I filled mine with sealant, but after a couple of years it had shrunk and was letter water in, and I had a very soggy rear passenger footwell. I ran a cable for my radar detector via the same route (though the plastic ducting from the engine bay up to the scuttle panel area)

May car would sometimes hang back and then be ok the next time I requested power, so this might be the early onset of sticky vanes. I would start by checking to see if the actuator on the turbo moved smoothy, and then after that consider the MAF, MAP and CTS along with vacuum issues.

Mine looks like yours (2001, Elegance). Either a dealer, or a visit to the scrap yard... It seems like kn0b-snappage is rather common.

plus one screw for the indicator assembly too

Tis easy to get the tensioner assembly off.