rossa123

You can apply the charger straight to the car while the batteries in situ. If charging the battery in situ you should use a trickle charger that gives no more than 7 amps - larger may cause problems to other components. Voltage can also cause an issue The only thing you have to watch out for is how high the voltage on the charger goes to charge your battery. 1) You will never get a problem charging an 'okay' battery 2) you will never get a problem with a decent car charger. You will however get a problem with a completely flat battery, and I mean flat as a pancake with a charger that doesn't have the ability to sense a dead battery. In this instance the charger increases the voltage to a level sufficent to charge the battery. Its this raise in voltage that will potentially harm you cars electrics. I would monitor the voltage and anything up to 14v will be fine. If the charger gets the voltage up to 18-19v to charge your dead battery something is going to get damaged, and quick

Pink everytime

I have bought several plates over the last couple of years and use the DVLA site - they are the same price as everyone else and you get that security feeling that you are buying from a legit source - Most of the "cheaper" adverts forget to add in the extras like VAT, DVLA registration fee etc etc - so do the comparison My VRS has **** VRS and will stay with the car when it goes My others have initial/name specific plates. Good hunting

Put a call into Seat and they will sort it for you - Had one, got ripped off several times by speed bumps etc , gave it away to another forum member , he had it ripped off as well IMO not worth the hassle and no significant benefit.

In the OP the question raised "Does anyone run any more power from a standard" . I very much doubt that without an upgraded turbo anyone gets 220+ , IMO you may as well just use a decent panel filter. Dont forget that significantly increasing the bhp will lead to not only an upgrade turbo but upgrade clutch and stopping power -

Awesome fitted the Ap's on mine about 18mths ago - no issues, great service from guys who know what they are doing -

You will probably not notice any difference. the basic idea is to get cold dense air into the turbo as that produces better charged air - hence the standard filter being enclosed in a box. Sitting in traffic and idling fills the engine bay with hot air which will then get sucked into the turbo - perhaps causing a little less performance. As most things its a case of personal preference.

just a thought - 43k miles in 9years is about 4750 av per year - thats 395 a month. take an average speed of 35 mph that would mean that the car only spent an av of 11 hours per mnth on the road - where has it been - just a thought ?

Mileage is abit of a non-entity if the car has been well looked after - some say there is no such thing as high mileage for a diesel . IMO as long as a diesel has good service history its all good, more mileage is better on a diesel rather than LOW mileage of stop and start journeys as the engine is always running cold. With average mileage in the UK being around 13,500 miles a year for diesel cars, then 80+ for a 7 yr old car wouldn't be excessive. My SE has done 102k , oil change every 5k , fuel filter etcetc every 12 months - never missed a beat.

I had mine done in situ several months ago - no issues as yet . As previously said the spoiler is bonded and would require cutting off - damage to both the spoiler and hatch bodywork is most likely - the job then becomes expensive. Provided you find a decent body shop they should be able to do a good job in situ. Anyone need one in the Manchester area let me know

Simple if you have the car to hand - I haven't cos it's 30 miles away on my ramp with no oil in it and I'm at work - thanks to the guys giving me some sizes , now I can buy a 32 and 36 on the way home do the job and return the unused one for a refund.

The garage that did the service last year has put the oil filter "lid" on so tight I cant shift it with an a footprint wrench - What size socket do I need to get - ( mark 1 VRS SE ) thanks

Thanks guys - done !!

Hopefully I will get to marshal this one and give you guys some encouragement without having to pick up any pieces !!

I will try and get to marshal the Oulton day and give you guys some encouragement - hopefully I wont need to collect any pieces !!

On the mark 1 fabia I expected the aerial to just come away after unscrewing it - is there something I've missed or does it just require a good pull - Ta

You should use a mix that will prevent freezing - this then stops the joints popping, especially the bulkhead one

Some like the SE some don't - some like micras some don't - same old tales but reason enough for some to teke the time to belittle the car IMO they are more expensive because of the limited edition tag - that said they are cheap to run/maintain can be played around with easily according to an individuals budget- you only buy something for what you think it is worth and the seller will only get what someone is prepared to pay. Everyone to their own

Had one on , speed bumps etc ripped it off three times , removed it ! Only cosmetic anyway - makes no performance difference IMO

I have used salford spray shop - excellent job on mine 07541 764211

Been there as have many others - there are lots of posts about attempts to claim etc - Skoda offered to repaint mine for £400 - then offered a 25% discount due to my loyalty to the brand - FSH, previous cars etc - thus making my contribution £300 - a crazy price ! I got it done locally for around £80 and a great job it was to !!

I just called the local skoda dealer - from memory I think it was about £30

Why not just use a decent oil and change it regularly -

The drivers side on mine became intermittant so I changed the switch - reasonable price from the main stealer - don't buy a used one as it could have the same fault -

One of the standard questions is "have you ever had a policy cancelled" - and they can check !! No doubt it will help them to load a policy price. I am too old for these black box things now so I doubt it would make any difference - I would suggest the best plan is to take the hit on cost early on then build a decent no claims amount and protect it -