sepulchrave

Gearbox input shaft bearing is failing.

The stuff worth keeping are the bits unique to the VRS, there are a trillion PD130 engines in breakers everywhere so the oily bits are largely worthless and should be weighed in.

Possible cam and tappet wear.

Pickup from what area?

Ok, so I've answered post one since I know about it, I'll leave post two to you, let us all know when you're ready to make a firm recommendation between the 1.6 Tip and the 1.2 DSG 🙃

Not really, the knocking noise is highly suspicious though. I thought about the dogbone mount but can't see how it would cause the kangarooing.

Dude, I can read, the article made no mention of an oil change, why are you charging off on some sort of massive tangent then getting ****y pants when I ask questions? The OP simply wanted to know whether or not to change the ATF in a tiptronic gearbox ferchrissakes, not some rambling story about your faulty DSG recall. As a general rule MANUAL gearbox oil does NOT need changing, there are sound engineering reasons why this is true, those who advocate changing the oil do so for personal religious or superstitious reasons, they're not doing any harm by changing it but doing it because it "looks nasty" or "smells funny" is not really a valid objective reason with any basis in the scientific method and advising others to do so wastes their time and money, particularly when they have a gearbox fault. Do you honestly imagine that manufacturers base their advice on guesswork, no, they base that advice on TESTING gearboxes to destruction and tribological sampling to determine the condition of the oil as the gearbox wears out. The conclusion reached is that the oil actually outlasts the gearbox components.

You didn't reconnect the battery and cycle the ignition with the airbag disconnected, doing that is what set the flag on the OP's ECU.

The article clearly states that the mechatronic unit was replaced, it doesn't mention mineral oil at all, I would say that the gearboxes had to be drained to replace that unit and that they were refilled with much cheaper oil because they were part-worn already and didn't need the additional protection of the fully synthetic fluid. The MCU was the fix, the use of mineral oil was incidental and an expedient cost saving on work that had to be done FOC.

You can fit an oil cooler to your lawnmower if you like, it's your money, you can throw it anywhere you like. The OP's oil temperature is within the normal range and he doesn't need one because his car is otherwise standard.

Manual gearbox oil does not get hot and cannot get contaminated like engine oil does, the colour change from light to dark is due to oxidation of the additive pack which contains sulphur so it gets smelly as well, changing it is not necessary but maintaining the level is important because the gearbox relies on the splash effect to lubricate everything so occasional top ups are essential. A DSG gearbox is a robotized manual, not an automatic. ATF on the other hand should definitely be changed in conventional automatic gearboxes with a torque converter, this includes tiptronic gearboxes.

That pocket in the pump casting is like a fusible link, a deliberate ploy to allow the seal to move if it is distorted by excessive pressure, this causes an obvious leak to act as an early warning if the system is overpressurized. The fact that your tank cap is also blowing coolant out just provides more evidence to support the theory.

It's possibly your DMF failing.

That's not enough difference to suspect significant binding, a binding caliper would cause a big difference, well over a hundred degrees.

Some of us have worked in the tuning trade for years and really know what we're talking about 😉 Stick to the driving and keep writing those cheques.

You're just a troll really, a chequebook tuner with no sound engineering experience at all otherwise you wouldn't say these things, I'm trying to help the OP while you shout and show off. Thermistors are not accurate, they get worse as they age, I would expect it to be as much as ten percent out by now. But then you knew that already, amirite?

Maybe, but the engine would overheat really badly and blow the head gasket first, is your cooling system over pressurizing and blowing the seal out?

It's only restrictive if it limits the engine, so you're saying with a standard turbo the engine will make 150 with or without the DPF, which is exactly what I'm saying, how are you missing the logic exactly or are you really just looking for an argument? As far as I'm concerned we agree, end of story. The OP doesn't need to mod anything to get the maximum power from his car, just get a good remap. Poverty tuning on modern cars doesn't do anything good, the fines for using non-emissions compliant vehicles in low emission zones are so large it simply isn't worth risking.

So you're saying the DPF is restrictive on the one hand but then... Which strongly suggests the DPF is in fact not restrictive. So I guess you're just being contrarian? The OP needs to understand that being filthy and smelly like an old tech oil burner does not make a CR diesel faster so he should not remove the emissions control equipment because some moron told him otherwise.

Which bit?

A DPF is only really restrictive when it gets clogged, if your EGR is in good condition and you don't use the car as a shopping trolley then it never gets clogged. If the turbo is giving you peak boost then there's no restriction, you can't make any more power without more boost and more fuel to go with that extra air. Once again, it isn't a 90's petrol turbo so the crude tuning tricks used on those really won't help.

It's not going to just "go away", it's going to get worse until it stops working completely, you need to verify this with a code reader but it sounds like the pump unit itself is failing.

The wheels will fit but the tyres are too big so you'll need to change them, IIRC you need 40 profile and 215 is the maximum width you can use with 17's.

You won't increase power by removing emissions reduction systems, it isn't a 90's petrol engine. You'll just make more noise and belch toxic fumes as well as permanently putting the dash warning light on. Just get it remapped for instant results.

There's nothing to worry about but if it worries you then don't monitor the oil temperature since there is no action you can take and the sensor may not necessarily be very accurate anyway.