sepulchrave

The pads need to be loose in order to still move when very hot, the problems come when they're too tight, then they bind and wear unevenly and you lose braking power. If they're not rattling then they're not too loose.

Northern Scandinavia maybe...

https://images.app.goo.gl/Hjsd6UJar4R1Pncm6 50 Nm.

It's high tensile, is it M8 or M10 metric fine?

Weird coincidence that this happened right after the front wheel bearing job.

Are you sure the driveshaft hasn't pulled out of the diff on the side where you did the wheel bearing?

Quite likely that the pump unit is faulty.

You need to make sure the selector mechanism on top of the gearbox is actually connected to the selector shaft and not just floating about, it sounds like the gearbox is stuck in neutral.

All this is caused by low gearbox oil level, changing the oil is no better than topping it up, the problem is after a while actual wear happens due to lack of lubricant, at which point topping up can only arrest the wear.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365202399834?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=LvABOjziQgG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_BlMq7ebT3O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314069113483?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=I8Fs6_MYSDa&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_BlMq7ebT3O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176521140033?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Kkiwt_joQDG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_BlMq7ebT3O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY There's three for you, how hard are you trying?

Secondhand engine is the most cost effective, there are plenty of crashed 1.4 TSI cars in breakers.

Immobilizer fault will be dry solder joints on instrument cluster main connector at PCB, simply reflow them, do a search if you need details, it's been covered many, many times before on here. The other fault is still most likely to be a leaking vacuum line but your MAF may also be faulty, simply unplug it it and drive without to see if power improves.

An expansion tank allows the coolant to do what it says, expand when hot. As long as it returns to the same level when cold it isn't anything to worry about.

It's not awkward, you need to be specific about your location and asking price so that people can decide whether to come and take a look or not. It's too rich for my pocket anyway.

That was hard to find, I had to go to your profile to find the listing, then I had to go back there to find out your location which turned out to be unhelpfully vague then I couldn't see a price. It looks very nice but unless you tell us where you are and how much you want for it then I suspect you won't sell it. Also dumb phrases like 'hardly run-in' are superfluous since you're selling to the cognoscenti on here!

It would be better if you just start a new thread detailing your problems.

It sounds to me like the car may have a misfire, change the spark plugs and the ignition coil pack, also check the vacuum pipework for splits between the brake servo and the inlet manifold plenum.

Just unplug it and see if it drives better.

Wet and brown?

Super reliable would be the PD100 or the 1.4 16V, rear legroom is consistent across the range so consider an Octavia if you need a larger car.

Check the cam timing.

Yes, you can just change the turbo, injectors and headbolts then remap. I wouldn't bother with the gearbox, sixth is an overdrive and the five speed unit is more robust anyway, also you already have a SMF on the PD100 so just fit a stronger clutch and you'll be good to go. LSD will rush you a grand plus fitting and isn't necessary for the <200 bhp you'll be running. You'll need the hubs and struts with the 288mm brakes already fitted from another VAG group car.

It doesn't matter, the turbos are MUCH more suitably sized and will fit your engine much better.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/481489-turbo-swap-choices-for-ea211-12-tsi/

I am an expert, I worked in engine tuning for many years.