sepulchrave

Start with the diagnosis, you need a compression test done to determine whether the piston rings are sealing properly or not. Then you need to make sure the PCV system is working properly.

The only mechanism other than piston blowby is valve guides which means failing stem seals, even turbo seals generally fill up the intercooler first.

The only thing to check is that the exhaust valves are sealing properly for which a leak down test is needed.

Yes of course, I'm interested in the cause not the effect. I guarantee at least one cylinder will be low.

I wouldn't worry too much about spark plugs right now, they have no bearing on the oil consumption issue we're discussing. Some people will post what they know rather than what you want to know whether it helps or not. Get the test done then post back with results, my sense is that you have bore glaze.

5k a year is very low mileage, it's been used as a shopping trolley, get the compression test done.

The sweet spot on the VRS is a low torque remap, more speed, more economy, no reliability penalty. What's not to like. I say grow old disgracefully!

Just get a cylinder leak down compression test done, no need to throw thousands at it just at yet. Low mileage cars often have poor piston ring sealing due to lack of use.

Instead of being maintained and repaired, low mileage cars age badly due to lack of use.

History and condition are far more important than mileage, you'll always pay a silly premium for low mileage cars and they're always more trouble than high mileage cars which have been well maintained.

You're out of luck, those mats went out of stock anywhere a long time ago and are now deleted and cannot even be ordered.

Big, wide cars have electrically folding wing mirrors, the little Fabia doesn't really qualify!

VCDS doesn't have a clue, there's no thermocouple fitted to that petrol engine.

That's not 900 degrees because you're looking at it in the dark, look in daylight!

No, I mean it's a double pole switch, one pole does the brake lights the other pole sends a signal to the ECU, this is the part of the switch that has failed.

Stop looking at it! The cat will be working perfectly.

13.5V with engine running is too low. Replace the brake switch first, it's two switches in one and one part of it has failed.

Very good, peak power at 7000, peak torque at 5750 giving a working power band of 1250 rpm. Does it still idle ok or did you have to increase idle speed?

Good for you, it would be nice if you could post a picture of the Dyno chart so others can see the RPM you needed to spin for that result.

From Skoda, if they have any left.

In that case there are broken wires in the driver's door bellows. To repair the heated seat you must take it to pieces and replace the element under the cover of the seat squab.

Drivers seat element is broken, you could try repairing it but it's probably not worth the agro. Drivers door latch needs replacing or the wiring in the driver's door bellows is damaged. Try turning the key in the driver's door lock and holding it clockwise, both front windows should open, turn and hold the key the other way and they should both close. If so replace the drivers side window switch. If not another wiring fault awaits. Finally, the headlamp switch may be faulty but first examine the fog light bulbs for signs of failure, muppets tend to drive around with them on all the time and they overheat and blow.

It looks like the boot is split, you'll need to get under there and check using your hands, not just your eyes.

You can start by seeing if it's still on the road by running an MOT check. No point in stalking it if some wally spanked it and wrote it off.