sepulchrave
Resident Member
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Everything posted by sepulchrave
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Find another electrician, it's NEVER the ECU and almost never the throttle body, there has to be an air leak somewhere.
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Only brand fairies care about brands.
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Are your eyes ok? The wear is terrible on the inside, the belts are actually visible! Inflation has played no part in this, it's entirely down to high speed motorway use with really bad tracking. No tyre brand would have survived this level of abrasion, there's nothing wrong with the Avons, I have a pair on the back of mine and they're just fine and dandy.
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Excessive toe-out is the only thing to do that so fast, hit a kerb hard recently?
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Wino is right about the standard system, it's indestructible, made of a basic grade of stainless my twenty year old 1.4 16V is still running on the original system it left the factory with, the rear silencer is double skinned and the outer skin does ablate, simply clean it off with a wire brush if the MOT guy complains leaving the inner skin intact.
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The head needs to go to the machine shop anyway to be skimmed and for the valves and seats to be recut.
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If the door is deadlocked you need to smash the plastic lock body using a hammer and chisel, it's a horrible job, try searching for step by step instructions, it's been a while since I did mine.
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Just unplug the EGR valve to start it.
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It's ancient and obsolete, spend more!
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Bulbs often fail at the same time when the car hits a pothole or speed bump really hard. Just replace the bulbs.
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Either, it doesn't matter, as mentioned you want high octane and they're both the same.
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I use the cheapest, Tesco momentum 99, it's all much of a muchness, even a chemistry lab would struggle to tell them apart, it's down to the additive pack really, the rest is all marketing.
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Not much compression left in that engine, spins too fast and doesn't kick back as it stops. I think the valves are damaged.
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1.2 6V with leaking exhaust valves?
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There will be two narrow tubes running to the exhaust, one just before the DPF and one just after it, these tubes will be attached to the sensor itself which is usually on a bracket nearby, it will be hard to see and may be hidden by heatshielding but it's down the back of the engine there somewhere.
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Ok, I see, nonetheless there is still no possibility that the engine is actually only reaching 60 degrees, there has to be an electronic metering malfunction. The gauge is clearly displaying nonsense, either ignore it or fix it, but there is nothing wrong with the cooling system so stop throwing money at it, your mechanic will cheerfully change every bit of it until you run out of money.
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One circuit for the engine, one for the charge cooler, nothing to do with each other. We're talking about engine temperature here.
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CTS is coolant temperature sensor, there's no such thing as an oil thermostat.
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No it's not true, however your car is so underpowered that such big wheels and tyres will slow it down even more I'm afraid.
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There is NO WAY your actual engine coolant temperature is 60 degrees after driving the car any distance, your CTS must be toast. Your car does not have two thermostats, it only has one by the way. The garage is mugging you off after dipping your wallet!
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Paddles are awful, complex gearbox nonsense is HIDEOUSLY unreliable, it's not a Fezza, it's a Fabia. Stick with a stick.
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