sepulchrave

All the cranks are forged steel, nobody uses cast cranks any more and I would expect the cams to have different part numbers to denote different lift and ramp geometry. However it is possible the pistons and conrods are different, many modern engines use sintered rods with cracked bearing caps and cast pistons. I think you may be traumatised by the expense of the engine failure but as wino says the same part numbers should convince you.

The switch itself is the most likely culprit, these fail fairly regularly across the entire VAG group range.

IF IT'S AN EXPENSIVE ONE IT MIGHT BE COVERED BY YOUR INSURANCE!

Yes, don't bother changing the rear drums to discs.

Errr, no need for the strut braces or exhaust system though, they do nothing on a diesel road car.

Is it more than having the entire dash and heater plenum professionally removed and refitted? Because that's the choice, personally I'd rather buy a brand new and improved hearing aid rather than trying to recover the old one.

Just repairing it may simply move the problem to another part of the PCB, consider reducing the current draw appropriately.

Yes, from a dealer, it's the only way to get a perfect match, it's basically a big sticker. You could get a bodyshop to do it if you don't fancy it, they are pretty tricky to get right first time.

Ooh, pretty lites. It's what Wino said, the PCB has failed due to the excessive current draw.

Yes, you can buy it as a spare part and replace it, you'll need heat to remove the existing one.

Along the NSF inner wing and across the subframe to the rack, check all four unions are tight while you're there and clean up any oil that has travelled so you'll be able to see the leak.

I think you may have lost it, the air doesn't get hot enough to damage the battery and the cost of removing the entire dash to retrieve it is prohibitive. Buy another one.

If the rack isn't leaking then it can only be from the pump in front of the NSF wheel arch or the pipes running between the rack and the pump, it should be obvious once you get under it and take a look.

Oh well, nothing ventured, nothing gained. You'll just have to put up with it for another couple of months.

That sounds fair for supply and fit, it's a really nasty job without a lift.

Just reset the gear linkage as per the instructions. Squirting magic jizz or changing the oil will do feckall.

Ok, so are they on all the time or not if the switch is left in the middle position? Edit: and do the elements really burn out? Because I've had Fabias with heated mirrors since 2008 and never had a single heater failure and I leave the switch in the middle position permanently.

How can you tell?

The heating elements only come on when the rear demist is on as well. No rear demist = no mirror demist. Unless your Fabia is somehow different to mine of course.

It's not urgent unless it fails the MOT on CV joint play. Ok.

It'll be just fine.

I think he saw the aeroplane first and his mummy had to take him home.

No of course it won't work otherwise nicking immobilised cars would be really easy. You need to develop critical thinking skills so you can filter out moronic advice like that. Timpsons can probably do it for you.

You don't need a six speed box, that's the beauty of the ATD, a nice wide torque curve. In any event the old six speeder is fragile and elderly now as well as very expensive and sixth gear will be too tall for a PD100.

Monkey spunk or Cheetahs fanny batter...