sepulchrave

Gearbox crunch is the synchromesh failing, live with it or get the box reconditioned, some joker will jack in the box and suggest comedy snake oil additive or changing the oil but there's no magic jizz going to replace the worn material so the choice is simple.

Au contraire, decent nylon trim tools are excellent and invaluable, my snap-on set is entirely plastic and doesn't mark or damage trim parts at all, only the button fork is metal.

With the correct tools it's pretty easy, without, impossible.

Yes, the gauge won't move but the heater will feel cooler because the radiator will remove heat really fast, hence if you mask it the heater will run hotter and the cabin will heat up much quicker than normal.

But it will because these engines overcool in cold weather so when the thermostat opens the coolant temperature will not drop so much and cabin heat will be maintained at a higher level so you will feel warmer quicker.

I just replied.

At that mileage it's completely unnecessary, chains don't age like belts but they eventually stretch through mileage.

A 1.9 TDI is not a VRS so therefore a PD100 is most likely, these run even cooler than ASZ or BLT, cold climates get an auxiliary heater but not here in the UK so there's not much to be done other than blank half the radiator off.

I can recommend a cheap air riveter if you have access to a compressor, awesome and cheaper than lazy tongs.

You may not be able to do that, the Marelli 4MV ECU is not programmable. Which is why I said you'd need the ECU as well.

Put it through one of the bulkhead grommets which come out behind the dash.

One tooth on the crank sprocket is valve damage for certain. Sorry.

Yes it should be a straight swap but the ECU would create coding problems with the dashboard and immobiliser.

You can fit the head and cams and ECU from a BBZ engine to give you 100 BHP. But it's probably easier and cheaper to sell it and buy another Fabia with the 100 BHP engine already fitted.

Not if using secondhand parts, good luck finding a car that will work flawlessly for three years, even brand new cars will have recalls or warranty work done in that time. It's almost certainly the pump unit since angle sensor failure will put the pump into always on mode and you'd have some assistance.

EGR is shut during regen. EGT's are therefore higher, higher EGT's are what promote regen. Simple logic really. If your EGR is permanently shut then your EGT is permanently higher so your DPF will run hotter and thus cleaner.

So bell the wires out, there's no easy way to tell and a MAF really isn't that expensive if you shop around. If it's had an EGR delete then the DPF is stuck in permanent regen. the EGR must have been mapped out, unplug it and see if any codes are thrown.

You should make sure the EGR valve is clean and can shut properly but first you need to address the MAF problem by replacing it.

It's safe to assume that a 1.2 12V engine is effectively unmodifiable, it's built for economy and emissions, you might get 100bhp out of it with custom cams, exhaust and throttle bodies on standalone management but that lot would cost five times the value of the car!

With a 1.2 performance is hardly a consideration either, his other thread is concerned about efficiency, wide tyres will increase drag substantially, reducing performance and efficiency even further as well as making wet grip a serious issue in such a lightweight car.

He's a new car owner with no previous experience looking for validation and recognition rather than advice, I'm not bothering any more.

I use 195/50/15 on 6J rims, I have a set of 16" VRS rims but the ride was too harsh and the handling skittish in the wet so I stuck with 15".

Yes.

I believe they are the same, the camshafts are completely different however.

Such dribbling guff in this thread, he wants to change TWO springs, not two hundred. ANY old Chinese rubbish will get two springs done if greased first.