Ray Luxury-Yacht

Yes, just to confirm - I enquired about this at my last 50,000 mile serivce and was informed by my main dealer that there is no fuel filter service item as such, so not to worry.

Probably obvious, but check where the headlight switch is. If it is in 'AUTO' then the lights will swivel as normal. However if you go a click past 'AUTO' to 'ON, the headlamps will work, but the swivel function is disabled...

Just for fun really. My car came with the pointless 'sound generator' fitted, and I disconnected the thing immediately. Which lead to me thinking, I know that manufacturers build new cars down to a budget for each and every component, costing it all to the penny. I've often wondered who thought it would be a good idea at VAG to sign-off on the cost of this item, rather than spending the money elsewhere in the car. Especially one built down to a budget, like our Skodas. So, if it had been you signing off the budget for this car, and you thought, like me, that the generator was pointless, what would you have spent the money on instead? I have no idea what the unit cost of these would be - ten, fifteen pounds maybe? Someone will probably know. What would that have bought instead that would have benefitted the car more? Full-size spare wheel? More sound-deadening? Under-bonnet insulation? Gas bonnet struts? What? I'd be interested to hear what other people think! Cheers and stay safe people

You're welcome my friend! As I said, it's just my thoughts, and people are welcome to make their own minds up. But it sounds like you already know what you are doing! Different additives have definitely had their place and have been useful additions in years gone by, but modern vehicle engineering, fuels and oils are so good these days that in my opinion, there is no need for them in well-maintained modern cars. Good luck with your car in the future anyway. I also see that you're quite new here, so don't be afraid to join in and discuss anything with us. That's how this keeps being such a great forum for us all!

Modern engines running modern oil really do not benefit from any additives these days. And indeed, there is evidence that they can even do more harm than good. Also, as you have stated, if you bother to use decent fuels like Shell V-Power, or the new Esso Synergy, they have decent additive packs anyway which do the job of keeping the fuel system, inlet valve stems and combustion chamber nice and clean for you. Combine that with a sympathetic driving regime like this: After starting, warm the engine gently by driving in a low gear, keeping the load on the engine low whilst it is warming up - and I mean the oil fully warmed, not just the coolant. When the engine is fully warmed right through, don't be scared to give the car a decent caning on wide-open throttle once in a while. Then when you are nearing your destination, drive gently for the last few minutes, then once stationary, allow the engine to idle for a minute before shutting down. Yes, I know that turbo-charged Skoda have an auxiliary water pump which runs coolant round the turbo after shut-down, but to me, this is still best practice as it allows the oil to flow through the turbo as it cools as well. And you'll have no problems! This regime has served me well for cars and motorbikes, including race engines, over my 35 year driving and racing career! It's all about having just a little mechanical sympathy and using decent fluids. Hope this helps!

Nice one. It's so satisfying doing your own bit of maintenance, and obviously, a lot cheaper. Well done! Was the old filter pretty grubby? When was it last changed, do you know?

Yes, I'd say that they got too close / keen with the pressure washer, and some water has leeched into the headlamp. It's not going to affect the operation of the lamp, and once it dries out it will mostly go away. It may leave a small stain, but you'll have to live with that unless you fancy removing the entire bumper assembly, the lamp, and dismantling it to clean the inside. Hope this helps - and may I respectfully suggest that you edit your post to remove the word 'Pakistanis' - it's unnecessary and a wee bit derogatory. Cheers!

Hey dude, and welcome! Thanks for the video, I really enjoyed that. It reminded me of all the reasons why I still love mine. Long may you enjoy yours! Cheers and stay safe.

There's a joke there somewhere....sorry, couldn't resist! I'll get me coat...

I took the silica bag out of my 2014 VRS years ago, but I have also heard recently that due to the bag not being present, the G13 won't provide enough protection and so it has now been superseded by G12 evo. This was confirmed as correct by my local main dealer last week when I enquired. So whilst it was in for a service, the other day, I also had the coolant system drained, flushed and re-filled with G12 evo. Cost me around 200 quid with the vat, but they said that it should now last the life of the car, with regular checks and the odd top-up.

That's unlucky mate. Yes, it's a common-ish problem. Some people experience it quite early on, and other cars cover starship mileage without it ever being an issue. So far, so cars! It's not a monstrous job, but if you ask me the quote you've had is ridiculous. Most places would be able to do that job for less than half that price. I would find a good indy if I was you. Good luck, and let us know how you get on mate!

As said by another poster, GT-85 is great for creaky joints. It penetrates well, but does not attack rubber or plastics. It contains PTFE (Teflon) which leaves a dry lubricant on things once the solvent evaporates. It's great stuff, and as a bonus, it smells lovely

Hello Tony, and welcome! I'm sure you'll find this forum to be as helpful and friendly as I have for many years now. Good choice of car too, but we need to see pictures man!! Keep safe, cheers!

Thanks for this V6. I'll go for the G12++, seems like the best option. Cheers!

Bit confused. My 2014 petrol VRS had the coolant bottle with the ghastly Silkat bag installed. I removed it a year or so ago. I topped up the system with G13, which is what is marked on the outside of the bottle. As the car is seven years old now, I am going to flush and replace the coolant. After looking round the internets, some people are saying to re-fill with G12++ spec coolant now, which is needed becasue the silicon bag is now missing. But others say to stick with G13. Which is right? Comments gratefully received, ta.

Many years ago when I started driving and I was anxious to buy cars, I would find one, and rush off to go and look at it. On the way I would be already imagining driving it...the excitement of youth! Then my Dad would find one or two things that he didn't like, and advise me to walk away. I would feel crestfallen, but his wise words were always 'there's always another car...' And over the years, I have found that to be so true - not just about cars, but anything - even houses. There's always another one. So, for me, nowadays if my gut says there's something not quite right - I just walk away. There's always another car!

Turns out they're an 'appreciating classic' now. Who knew?! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2005-Skoda-Octavia-1-8T-vRS-Black-MK1-20v-Turbo-89-000-Miles-RS-HATCHBACK-Petrol/133679713722?hash=item1f1fee8dba:g:-6IAAOSwBTpgPR-v

Nice, a gentleman can't have enough trinkets!

Have you got the horn yet? Giggle /child

I bought a roll of one inch wide, sticky-backed foam tape. The foam is about 3mm thick. Lika dis: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121388027214?var=424692676835&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=424692676835_121388027214&targetid=1140163973249&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007237&poi=&campaignid=12125486765&mkgroupid=116380571266&rlsatarget=pla-1140163973249&abcId=9300482&merchantid=113583048&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1Z68sfSZ7wIVR7DtCh2xXA17EAYYBCABEgJTBfD_BwE I cut a section off the roll of about an inch by half an inch, removed the backing, carefully posted it in the gap and pressed it down using the adjuster. No more rattles. Ten minute fix. Hurrah!

Yeah it's not that great Allan, but at least you've been looking at your own tyres, and keeping an eye on them before this happened, which heartens me greatly because I dare say 90% of the driving population doesn't ever bother to do so! I suppose the least you could say is it is better than having nothing. Although with regard to your comment about being on a motorway, doesn't necessarily mean it would be a horrendous problem. Back in around 2003, I was driving my Volvo S40 in lane two of a dual carriageway at 70mph plus a bit (!) when I had a catastrophic failure of the nearside rear. The tyre blew and de-laminated with such ferocity, it tore a huge hole in the side of the plastic rear bumper. Despite this, and a loud bang, the car remained in control and I was able to bring it safely to the side with no dramas. It was a fairly new Pirelli, and the post-mortem did not reveal the cause. I can only assume I was unlucky enough to run over something like a sharp piece of angle-iron or something. Anyway sorry to hear of your drama, I hope you're feeling more relaxed about it now. Sounds like an occasion for beer o'clock! Cheers and stay safe mucker.

The system on our cars doesn't have any devices inside the wheel to monitor the pressures like other brands. It's a half-assed system that just computes wheel speed from the abs sensors. If it detects a wheel moving slightly faster than the other ones, due to it going flat and having slightly less circumference, it flags up a puncture. But it doesn't work very well, as you have found out!

Following - good question this, I'd be interested to see also. Mine is dreadful for the offside wheel spinning in low gears, along with the nearside wheel chassis hop. Thinking about a re-map one day, but not before I do something about the appaling traction issues these seem to suffer from.

Ooh I hate nasty little problems like this. Everyone scratching their heads for ages until finally the diagnosis is made which no-one could have ever thought of. Cars are sent to try us eh?!

Quality, that's really made me laugh!