muddyboots

To get access to blast out from behind would mean taking the condenser out.....I think if I was going to the effort of doing that I'd just replace it.

Here's a peek at the condenser through one of the apertures in the lower grill. The entire visible surface is like this....no way is that letting a full flow of air through the intercooler behind it!

There's no way the fins will all straighten out, it's totally mashed. I'll try and get a photo later I think it's still gas tight; the aircon doesn't blow as cold as it could do but that may just mean regas is required (or it could be due to lack or airflow through the condenser fins). However, as it's a remapped 170 - I'd rather the intercooler was performing to the best of its ability, and not having its performance reduced below standard by lack of airflow.

Hi all I'm considering replacing the aircon condenser on my 2011 Yeti, and wondered if it's a DIYable job ? Reason for replacement is that all of the fins (visible from the front) of the condenser are completely mashed in from stonechip hits, there's no way air can flow through in any quantity, which means the flow over the intercooler behind it must be significantly reduced too. Anyone done it themselves ? Or if you've paid for a replacement, how much did it cost ?

Interesting idea, will look next time - though I doubt there's enough slack in the cable to reach the bikes.

We use a towbar-mounted bike carrier on our Superb. It's an Atera Strada DL, and we carry three bikes on it for holidays. Very secure, and it slides right back out of the way so you can open the boot and get to it just fine. I did try a similar Thule one before buying the Atera, but found the Atera easier to mount and a bit lighter too. If you get one, set aside an hour or two before your first trip and practice getting all the bikes on - can be fiddly first time to work out how to get all the restraint bars threaded through the frames, and the bikes lined up, so they can't rub against each other. Then get a photo of it to remind yourself how you did it... To make it easier, I slacken the stem bolts on the kids bikes and rotate the handlebars 90º so they're inline with the front wheels. Just remember to take the allen key with you The towbar on our Superb has a substantial eyelet built in, through which I thread a decent quality padlock, and to which I attach a thick security cable threaded through all the bikes. And then put a couple of good quality D-locks between the frames. Reduces chance of theft a bit. For day-to-day use though, I just put my mountain bike on the roof of my Yeti. I have Thule aerobars and a Thule 598 carrier permanently fitted on the car, so I can just stick my bike on within a minute or two and head out. Just remember to watch out for height barriers. Although these carriers have locks, there are videos on Youtube showing how bikes can be taken off them in seconds even when locked, so if you're leaving the car for any time with a bike on top, stick an extra lock on (I thread a D-lock through the rear wheel and round the roof bar). Roof box...we use a Kamei Corvara 390, have had it for about 6 years now, they were recommended by the roof box company at the time as having the most useable space inside (compared to others advertised as having the same volume) and being the most durable. It's one you can open from either side, which can be pretty useful. It's had lots of use, but still looks as good as new. Has never let a single drop of water in, despite motorway speeds in a lot of torrential rain. Well recommended and you'd probably double the luggage capacity of a Yeti!

Ours was delivered to home by trailer, so location of the supplying dealer was unimportant...local dealer happily sorts all warranty and servicing. From memory I think we got 22% off list price.

Interesting, am just considering going down this route myself, either a T5 or T6 Kombi. What model have you got, SWB/LWB ? I want something we can just quickly chuck bikes or camping gear in the back of. I'd love a 204ps 4motion but not certain it'll get budgetary approval....

Just to add......when we bought our Superb around 3 years ago, we bought through one of the various new car brokers....discounts were significantly higher than those we got via Carwow.

All investigated under warranty, no charge.

The dealer never managed to replicate the problem, and it's never happened again since...so nothing was done.

Interesting....have they admitted as such in any writing/emails anywhere ? Ours need doing very soon due to the state they're in; if there's any way of getting a contribution from Skoda then I'm all ears

The rear discs on our late 2015, 30k miles Superb III are in a horrendous state - really badly corroded and pads are almost worn out, worst we've seen on any car we've owned. And nowhere near the coast either...

Not necessarily, the Gen 4 Haldex does pre-empt slip by engaging when you pull away from standstill and also under harder acceleration (even if no wheel slip is detected). There's some info on it in the self-study guide.

I believe there have been some instances of failed DMF and/or clutch machining their way right through the bellhousing - might be worth having a search for more info on that. It could be the cause of the noises you're hearing.

If you're more performance orientated, also bear in mind the 170 diesel is fitted with larger diameter (312mm) brakes as standard, I don;t think any other models were. And they remap reliably to ~200-205bhp.

Interested in how you're measuring the voltage increase - is this using VCDS ?

If you dig around you can find datasheets on the likes of Nightbreakers, which state the average life expectancy. It isn't long.

Here's a random thing I've noticed. During a DPF regen, when I'm stationary, and the idle speed is increased due to the regen.....if it's in neutral, foot off clutch, and I quickly blip the throttle to the floor (has to be all the way down) and back, the idle speed drops to normal. It still carries on doing post-injection of fuel to aid the regen process (based on data from the VAG DPF app) but the idle speed is reduced to normal. Until you move off and stop again and it's back to the higher idle speed. Not suggesting there's anything beneficial - just something I've noticed!

My pre-facelift Elegance has HID headlights but halogen DRLs.

Thule aero bars for me too. They stay on permanently with a bike carrier.

If you're thinking of having two bikes on the roof alongside the box....couple of thoughts specifically spring to mind: 1) Check you can actually open the box - remember the box lid will need room to hinge sideways when it opens. Depends on the box size I guess, but when I have our box on the roof of our Superb, I can only realistically fit one adult bike alongside it. 2) Getting the bikes on the roof might be quite awkward due to the height of the car, especially the one nearer the middle of the roof. Lifting my mountain bike to the outer side of the roof, is a physical challenge (it is an adult sized, full suspension bike) as in you have to be able to press it right up to arms length overhead, and then hold it in place on the carrier until the clamp is done up. It's only fallen on my head once There's no way I could do it further inboard without having a reasonable sized step to stand on. Other random thoughts: With the car being higher already, watch (and know) your overall height if you have bikes on the roof. With my mountain bike on the roof, I have to be careful of overhanging branches especially going down any rural lanes. Watch our for height barriers. Easy to forget!! You'll almost certainly notice the effect handling characteristics - it'll roll more in corners with more weight up top, probably understeer more (eg coming off roundabouts etc) and with the weight of bikes hanging further out back it'll bounce up and down more. Beware of your extra length with bikes on a towbar carrier. The rear parking sensors won't be any use, so reversing into spaces will be trickier (based on my experience of having 3 bikes on a towbar carrier on our Superb). Also beware of the extra overhang when turning, for example pulling out of parking spaces. Unless you get a towbar carrier that tilts or slides back, you won't be able to get into your boot. Unless you have it already, a set of roof bars, bike carriers, roof box and towbar carrier won't be cheap! And you need somewhere to store it all. We've done the last few camping holidays with 2 kids, loaded up with roof boxes, one bike on the roof, and three on the towbar carrier (in our Superb estate). I'm now seriously looking at a combi van (eg Transport or Transit Custom sized van with two rows of seats) - much less faff, just chuck it all in the back, and it's out if sight! And somewhere to get changed if your muddy when you come back from rides, walks etc.

Or if you start with a 170, a remap will take you to around 200-210bhp (and the 170 comes with the larger brakes as std).

Interesting :)

Incidentally, I found the rubber bump stops on mine were crumbling and falling apart - and I believe it's not uncommon. If you're changing rear dampers I'd suggest changing the stops too.