muddyboots

Mine froze in the popped-out position recently, noticed when I got to work that they were both stuck out. When i got back to the car later it had warmed enough for them to defrost and they'd popped back in and are still working fine. Suppose it's possible the missing one is the result of hitting some debris ? The surrounding bumper can bend and then return to shape, but the washer mechanism could have got broken off ?

Can you use seat covers OK with the side airbags ?

Mine's regenning more and more frequently (typically less than 100 miles between each), taking longer to do so each time, and I had the first DPF warning light last week. It's gradually been smoking (diesel smoke) more and more during regen too. Current mileage 97k.

By the way, if fitting uprated pads, check if there are any bedding-in procedures to be followed, and follow them. Long straight roads with no following traffic may be needed

Evening all. Wondered if anyone has had to replace their DPF yet ? If so - did you use new genuine, new aftermarket, or used part? And cost ? Think mine's reaching the end of its life, so am weighing up my options. Cheers (Just for clarity, this is NOT related to the emissions fix as mine has never been touched)

I use EBC Yellow pads front and rear on mine, they are excellent from cold. I've used other pads before now on other cars, the best performing were Carbotech XP10s but when cold you'd have got better performance from blocks of wood. 16" wheels are fine.

My mileage is around 20kpa but on similar roads, nearly all rural A & B roads. Prior to the Yeti I'd got by well with 2wd cars, with winter tyres Dec-March(ish). But I'm definitely a 4wd convert now, really notice the difference in traction just in general driving on damp/greasy roads etc, no wheelspin pulling away anywhere. The other advantage I've found is that extra bit of ground clearance means I avoid hitting the various bits of debris (dead animals etc) that you tend to encounter more on rural stretches. Mine's a 170 4x4 with Shark Stage 1 remap, owned since around 20k, heading towards 100k miles now. No significant problems to report. Handling wise they're better than you expect. Be aware the aerodynamics of a house brick mean MPG tails off when you start getting above 55-60mph. Have you considered buying an earlier facelift car with low miles ? You'll save a chunk of depreciation.

From experience, I suspect Shark not answering emails is due to how busy they are...best to give them a call.

I have the STS for mine; aside from the purchase cost, I see no downsides really. Just takes 10 mins to switch maps and you also have the ability to set it back to standard map if you feel the need. Or if you ever get Shark to provide a revised map in future (maybe to blank EGR, or whatever....) then they can justy email it to you, for you to apply at your convenience.

I tried one of those...then promptly removed it after I saw the effects on oil temp and intake temps on uphill dual carriageways (logged with VCDS)

Regarding brakes...of course, the manufacturer will always fit brakes that are capable of stopping the car safely from speed. There's a difference though between being "adequate for the job" and "having plenty in reserve". If you like to drive with a little enthusiasm occasionally, then improved brakes make the car feel so much more reassuring to drive, especially on twisty roads with repeated bends. I imagine if anyone tows, it would be an equally noticeable improvement and provide more fade resistance. Before I ever started with any mods on cars, I was also of the mindset "the standard brakes stop the car perfectly well, and I can brake hard enough to lock and trigger the ABS, so what's the point in upgrading". But then I gave it a go - replaced the 288mm discs on my Ibiza with 312mm (simple change, just needs larger caliper carriers) - and now it's the first thing I'd change on a car ahead of a remap, have done it on every car I've owned since (except my Yeti, which has 312mm as standard). The 312mm upgrade is very popular across the VAG community, it's so simple too *if* you have the right hubs to start with (ie not the ones on the 110) and at least 16" size wheels. Same pads & calipers, just swap the caliper carriers and fit the larger discs. The joy of VAG sharing components across so many cars You've also got the option of uprated pads too...I've been running EBC Yellow pads all round on mine for some time now, they provide a noticeable improvement, yet are as good from cold as the OE pads, no squeal, and much more fade resistant.

Insurers vary - there are plenty of mainstream insurers who will cover such modifications. I've got my uprated brakes, suspension and remap all covered without an issue an with very little increase to my premium. The comparison sites now even have boxes to tick for various modifications such as remaps.

Are these still for sale? Cheers

Would be interesting to see if that £69 does actually include the filter change, that the preceding text suggests is necessary

There's always a chance both bulbs have gone ?

That's where I got mine from. Plan an hour with no interruptions (and the kids aren't caning your broadband watching Youtube) and download, download, download! I got the entire collection of manuals for my Yeti and the wife's Superb in one 7 euro visit.

Wanted a decently powerful TDI with decent handling, but with slightly raised height and 4wd to cater for Peak District winters Yeti was the only car that ticked all boxes. If i had to replace it now - I'm really not sure. Most likely the Ateca 190 4wd, but would rather wait until a 2nd or 3rd MY car with niggles ironed out came into my price range. Either that or one of the very last 170 4wd Yetis, although I personally feel they are getting a little dated now.

You'd be very, very lucky indeed to go 800 miles between active regens, fix or no fix. I think that's around the maximum distance-based limit the ECU will allow between regens, if you somehow managed to maintain perfect driving conditions / exhaust gas temps for passive regeneration to occur and keep the soot loading low for that long. In reality... I did extensive logging of EGTs, soot loading and regen patterns on my stock, un-fixed 170. I'd be lucky to get 300 miles between active regens, and that was with a large proportion of my journeys cruising at 60mph+. Generally I think I got around 250-300 miles before the soot loading triggered an active regen. The EGTs simply never got high enough for passive regeneration to keep the soot loading low enough. Drive faster to increase EGTs - soot production increases too. But it's OK, as the active regens are unobtrusive, and work just fine. Everyone's journeys and driving conditions will be different, and so will their distances between active regens. What's becoming clear is that increased EGR associated with the fix, is decreasing the mileage between active regens. Increased EGR causes more soot production, which loads the DPF faster, and I guess the increased soot may be the cause of increased EGR failures if it's causing the valves to clog.

Whereabouts in the car is that fitted ? Can't make it out from the photo.

There's also a separate issue of rust on the trailing edge of the front doors, where the paint rubs against the rubber seals between front & rear doors. Both my doors have it, just a very thin line of rust on the trailing edge, doesn't seem to have spread though. You can't see it with the doors closed. I've read that others have this problem too.

It's about the same length as a Focus, hardly massive is it...

Do the hydraulic clutch mechanisms require bleeding ? If it's been in for work on the gearbox, I'd probably drain and fill with pukka gearbox oil, to make sure it's got the right stuff in. I've read many a post about crunchy VAG gearboxes over the years working best with genuine oil. It's not cheap though. It's a relatively simple task to try, and eliminate, before moving onto more worrying things. Also, if the noise is as a result of some debris floating about, a drain/refill could get rid of it.

I only noticed recently that the rear seats slide backwards and forwards

I noticed this a while back - but I'm not convinced "A" mode actually does anything...

It'll do an active regen though, so nothing to worry about.