Titanium_Man

I don’t know anyone who buys a performance car to drive it like Mrs Daisy is in it!?!

I agree with Sup, sticking calliper, or piston to be accurate. You might get away stripping and rebuilding the calliper with new seals, but depends how corroded the piston and hole it sits in are.

Not attempted it yet, but seems fairly straight forward ......

Yup, the filament on mine was also intact.... and no worries 👍

I’ve come across this myself and l was also convinced that the bulbs were ok. But, when I took it out and held up against a brand new bulb there was a very slight black tinge to the bulb. Replaced the bulb and was all good. Gotta be worth a look.

OK, I don’t have an eco map, but my car has been mapped..... You’re getting good fuel economy as it is, which I have no doubt will get worse once you get it mapped as you’ll enjoy the change in performance Plus, at 150k you may find that the increase in performance will put extra strain on old parts which may not like it! Then you’ll probably wanna beef up the brakes... then it will take you a wee while to get back the money you’ve saved on fuel to cover the cost of the map and brakes, if you do at all. If I were you I would Keep it as it is and save your money, or change your car for one with a bit of performance.

For me, bolt on refers to parts that are from another car that can be fixed (bolted on) without further modification. I.E hardware like turbos and brakes. A remap is a software update and therefore I don’t consider as a bolt-on part.

As long as you have a hatch and it’s coming from a non-vRS hatch you’ll be fine

Ah yes, for some reason the OP had a vRS, which is not stated anywhere 🤗. Therefore, Lee01’s answer is the mot useful 🤪

I can’t see any difference between the bumpers on my ‘53 and ‘05 plate vRS’. Brake lights ..... 2003 is pre-facelift

My cambelt snapped at 4yrs and 2 months after the last time it was changed. I service my car myself every year and had covered about 24k miles in that time.

😔 bugger. Professional job I reckon. Always worth trying hot water, as it’s a free go!

Keep meaning to actually try out the one I bought 18 months ago ☺️

Can you explain how they are useful for a Toc H Lamp, which is what by the way?!? @sepulchrave not that I don’t believe what you’ve stated he means, but assumption is the mother of a F ups and all that 😋

How small we taking?!? 20p, 50p, 1p?!

Big-a55 dents, yes, but not had any success with small dings / dents using boiling water.

👍

That’s kinda my point. I’ve spoken to a few people who think they’re both the same thing, which as we both know are not. Some places will check it and only charge for any adjustments, I they can be made. Again, I’m sensing you know this but others may not

I would check tracking, bushes, lower arms etc for damage or movement. If this shows up nothing then I would be looking at a 4-wheel alignment using a Hunter or similar piece of kit. Note that this is NOT tracking / “laser 4 wheel alignment”, but I’m. Or expecting you to need this with inner edge wear.

...... but you’re talking like power is the only consideration but there are plenty folk that simply do not. The demise of performance diesel is down to the environment and how emission standards have changed in recent years. Likewise, the price comparison of petrol vs diesel purchases is down to governments / dealerships pushing the greener petrol engine over the diesel. Nothing to do with what the car is putting out, what country you live in or what colour your skin is.

That’s one opinion, but remember yours isn’t the only one, and isn’t always right 😉

All you need is for the tracking to be checked. Find a independent garage who won’t charge a lot for it to be checked.

Thanks for pointing out the process the local repair bloke went through to try and sort my rust, but as I said, this didn’t cure it and came back. Replacement was the only option after that.

It was never it doubt whether to keep mine or not. The garage were good about it given their mechanic’s insistence that it was not due when I challenged him, so only cost me £500 in the end to put it all right.

Keep it. Had mine for 10 years this January and like you not much maintenance needed at all. You could sell this car and end up with a lemon, so I would change it only when I had to. Mine is an ‘05 on 145k and do between 6 & 9k a year. (Average is 7 over the last 10 years) and only had to replace one boost hose, lower engine mount and DMF. Oh, my cam belt did snap, but that was after the garage told me it wasn’t due and 6 weeks later it went!