chimaera

Probably dead antenna. OE sharkfin is around €90 and easy to fit.

Looking at the wiring diagrams, there's no switched live available at the stereo, only permanent .

If I'm not mistaken, the stock radio on these gets ignition status via CANBUS rather than a switched live input on the wiring harness, so there may not be a switched live at the connector at all. A good way to check is probe the different pins for voltage with ignition on and off and see if any of them switch on with the ignition.

If I switch mine off in media player mode, it powers back on in the same one. Mind you I don't use BT as a media source, just an SD card.

This is what mine looks like hitched up and loaded for a trip. It's sitting higher than yours is with nothing loaded.

I think a lot of the estates got the weight range 6 springs, which are not up to the job even without a caravan on the back. I didn't realise this when I went to replace mine. Since then I fitted a pair of MAD helper springs and it's much better. I've summarised all the rear end configurations in the thread linked below. I'm towing a 1.4 tonne caravan and performance from the CR170 is fine, quite a bit slower than without it but still more than enough not to be a nuisance to other drivers.

Check the immobiliser system. If it's not working, the car will start and run briefly then cut out.

If you cut a slot in the plate it can be fitted without removing the bearing.

This is the Superb 2 forum, you have a Superb 3.

Search for videos on towbar fitting and you'll find them, that's what I was doing when I took that picture. It's a bit of work to get in there as you have to remove a bunch of other stuff first.

It shouldn't move every time if you have matched the key to your settings. To match the key, move the seat and mirrors to your preferred position, store it in one of the memory slots then remove the key from the ignition and press the unlock button (don't open the door before you do that). If you hear a ding from the instruments, you have paired the key to that seat memory and the car will automatically adjust to your position if necessary when you unlock. Repeat for any other keys used by other drivers.

What issue are you having?

That's the ride height sensor - needed for the headlights to adjust the level correctly.

Is it in good mechanical condition and fitted correctly?

Insurance quotes are always sky-high because they are done through estimating software that assumes a lot about what's damaged underneath, uses book values for time and prices for new parts at retail. Ask around you for recommendations for a good body shop that you can rely on, bring their estimator to see the car and get an accurate quote for the repair. As I mentioned in another thread, you also need to push your insurance company MUCH harder on their valuation if you are genuinely struggling to find a similar car for the money they are offering. They are always going to lowball on their first offer in the hopes that you'll go away and they save on the payout. You have done a lot of research already trying to find a car, put that together in a file and send it to them, and ask them to come back with a realistic offer. It took me nearly three weeks to get my insurance company to cop themselves on when I had to go through this, it was hell, but I got the result I needed and got an almost identical car to replace the writeoff. If you want a good result here you will need to put in the effort to chase the insurance company because they are really not your friend when it comes to parting with money.

Sounds like you need to have a deep and meaningful conversation with the insurance company about their valuation: if what you say is true you're being fleeced by them. Show them the ads with prices of actual cars similar to yours and don't take no for an answer.

Why not pop out the master cylinder and take a look at it rather than just guessing? Could also be a blockage in the line if anything got in there.

Or the more likely possibility is that the MAP sensor has failed, it's not unknown for it to happen. One way to check is to swap in a known good sensor and see if the problem persists.

I've gone through a lot of the details here:

If it's anything like here, the only hard time limit you'll face is the expiry of your insurance policy if you don't take it back up. When this happened to me a number of years ago I had a month from the date of the collision before my policy would be cancelled. I wouldn't put myself under as much time pressure as you're doing to yourself. I know it's awkward being without a car, or out of pocket on a rental, but it's nothing like as bad as living with a car you don't particularly like because you bought it in a hurry. One option is to buy a cheap runaround to tide you over, something that's easy to flog on later when you've found something you like.

This is the thread:

I have this one: https://www.cars-equipment.com/en/shop/skoda/oem-rvc-rear-view-highline-camera/?tpl=product_detail There's a thread around somewhere with instructions for fitting, I'll look for it in a sec. Looks like this with a trailer hooked up

Oh it's super handy for hitching up the caravan, I can get right in under the coupling no hassle.

If the gauge is behaving erratically it's probably the coolant temperature sensor. Bad thermostat is going to result in the engine staying cooler than it should be but the gauge will still be stable.

Interestingly, when you have a reversing camera fitted it keeps the camera on when a trailer is hitched. Very handy for getting the towball lined up, and for reversing the trailer too as it's much easier to check your angles.