chimaera

First thing is to verify the timing. If the timing is off far enough, the engine will lose compression because the valves are out of sync and it's impossible to get all the valves in any cylinder to close fully. So we don't worry about compression yet. Second thing is to use a borescope to check the condition of the pistons. If they have hit valves they will be marked. If the pistons look good then I think it's worth a shot at sorting out the timing. You're as well off fitting a new chain and tensioner once you get in there, given the labour involved.

The fault code is an indication that the ECU detected a problem. Resetting a fault code will not make the fault go away. Not resetting a fault code after repairing the cause will not cause the fault to re-occur. This is a red herring here.

Your best bet might be a private sale to someone with the skills and resources to do the repair themselves. You'll get more than a dealer is going to give you for it. Alternatively see if you can source a known good used engine.

^This. The differential will handle the difference in speed. It wouldn't be great for handling though.

Assuming the cylinder bore isn't badly damaged, the head has to come off to remove the piston and the oil pan has to come off to detach the con rod from the crankshaft. Lots of labour, and there may be a bunch of 'while-you're-in-there' parts to replace. This is doable with the engine in situ I think. It would be worth having a look into the cylinder with a borescope to see what things are like in there before you go any further.

Have you established where the leak is coming from? If it's hitting the spark plugs, it's probably getting in through the intake which would suggest crankcase ventilation or turbo. Turbo is easy enough to check if you pop off the high pressure hose going to the intake manifold and check for play in the shaft. A lot of oil in this area would also be a strong indicator.

A note on that M18 XZN holding the hub in place: it requires a tightening torque of 180 Nm followed by a further 180°. You'll need a large torque wrench to do this correctly.

Most servicing is distance based rather than time unless you're doing very low mileage. The main things I can think of outside the distance based schedule are cabin filter and brake fluid.

Push it on fully first to relieve tension on the release clip, then press the release clip and it should slide off.

I'm pretty certain the front diff and gearbox are in the same casing and share oil. Not 100% sure about the transfer case. I'd suggest you get hold of the service manual: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

Standard 18" wheel on the Superb is ET40, so ET29 will be a bit further out towards the wheelarch. It'll increase steering castor a bit so you might find the steering heavier than you're used to.

On the variant on my car, there's an M6 hole in the centre of the hub assembly and you can thread a screw in there to push it off the shaft. Check if there's something similar on yours.

The V6 got 345 mm disks and require minimum of 17" wheel. Everything else is 312 mm or less and works with 16" wheels.

Unless it's a V6 they should be fine, but worth double checking.

Go looking in scrapyards, there's going to be plenty of dead Superbs in them by now.

Definitive wheel and tyre guide for the Superb 2:

That's not it. This thread shows what you're looking for:

Can you post a picture of the label on the BT module? I've some recollection that certain earlier versions had compatibility issues with some phones, and it would help to know what you have in your car.

If a sensor fails with a plausible value it's never going to set a code. You'll have to monitor things over a period of time I think. The VAG-DPF app with a Bluetooth obd adapter could be helpful here. Another possibility is that you have an engine problem that is resulting in excessive soot generation and leading to frequent regens. A check over fuel and turbo systems might be no harm.

It's regenerating the DPF. It shouldn't be doing it so often though, so you have a problem in there somewhere. You'll need diagnostics to figure out what. Differential pressure sensor is a good possibility but don't go throwing parts at it blindly.

If an external Bluetooth module is fitted you will find it beneath a plastic cover under the driver's seat. What head unit is fitted to your car? Does BT work for phonecalls?

IIRC it allows +/- 15%. @OP, you will need to do a few brim to brim economy checks and for each one reset MFD2 to zero. When you fill up each time record the MFD average economy and compare it to the actual economy from brimming the tank. If you do this over a number of tanks you'll get a pretty accurate correction which you can use in adaptation channel 3 on the instrument cluster: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_(1K)_Instrument_Cluster#Adaptation

I just bought one for our Fabia (HH variant). Dealer said we were lucky that one was in stock as these harnesses are made in Ukraine and supply is severely disrupted right now.

MFD is usually off by around 15%. If you have some patience and VCDS, you can correct the calibration.

What year is your car and what engine is fitted?