chimaera
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Everything posted by chimaera
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That cover is a rubbery plastic which will flex and stretch if the airbag fires. This stretching will likely cause the bits you stuck to it to pop off and fly into your face. The chrome strip that's part of the cover is engineered to stay in place on the cover so there is no risk there. The basic rule is never stick anything to an airbag cover, or run any cables across one.
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Service manual will have all torque settings. You can purchase it from https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do
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Which 1.2 is it? The NA 3 cylinder or the 4 cylinder TSI?
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Maybe floor mats in a contrasting colour? I'm not sure what else you could change easily in the interior, perhaps some vinyl film on the smooth plastic surfaces (I don't think it'd work well on the textured plastics). A word of caution since you mentioned sticking things on (apologies if you're already aware if this) - don't stick anything on or near the airbag covers as it will become a projectile if the airbag fires. Aside from the front two, you have one at knee level on the driver's side, one in the side of each front seat, and the curtain airbag running down the roof on each side from the A pillar to the C pillar. Also be careful running wires along the headlining at the top of the A pillar (common practice for dashcam installs) as you could end up with the cable crossing the curtain airbag. Good luck with the car 🙂
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The Superb 2 is based on the B6 platform, not B7 (or B8 for that matter), so it's quite likely that B7/8 parts either won't fit at all, or will be incorrectly specified for the B6. Unless you have documentation from Skoda/VW that the geometry was unchanged from B6 to B7 this is bad advice, especially when there's a significant cost involved. Also, Bilstein B6 dampers are really stiff (I have them on my Porsche 944 so I speak from experience), as they are aimed at drivers looking for a more sporty drive. A lot of drivers would find them uncomfortable.
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From that part number, you have one of weight range 1-6 installed on the 1JB package. The spring P/N you noted above is not specified with that damper in any of the manufacturer's configurations. That spring is listed for weight range 7 (0YG) with damper P/N 3C0 513 049 BP. In the table I prepared in the linked thread above, I included a list of the paint codes for each spring P/N so you could check yours against that. The component manufacturers usually have a parr number cross reference or lookup. I'm wary of trusting the likes of Autodoc as I have seen errors there at times, especially on something like this where there are multiple configurations - they might just list the most common one as compatible with all models because most consumers won't be able to spot the difference in part numbers.
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If the buttons are activating as easily as you suggest in earlier posts, then something's up with it. It needs a fairly firm press to activate them normally. It's not impossible to press them when they're in your pocket but it's not a routine occurrence IME. The only way your wife gets irretrievably locked into the car is when you hit the lock button on the remote when the driver's door is fully shut. In that situation, the deadlocks are activated and the interior handles and unlock button are disabled. It sounds like your wife got locked into a car at some point in the past, and is scared of that happening again. It might be good to talk through that and see what's really spooking her.
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If it's the same one we have on both Skodas here, it should just pop open along the seam in the middle. If you're going to replace the remote casing anyway, it doesn't really matter if you make bits of the old one. Disabling the remote functionality is going to take more time and effort than just repairing the remote, so I'd just repair it.
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The oil's performance as a coolant is a function of its specific heat capacity, and I doubt that would change very much between different oil grades. Thermal stability is a function of the oil's chemistry, not its viscosity, so clever chemistry can create a thermally stable low viscosity oil. Consider also that modern engines are designed to keep the engine temperature within a pretty tight range regardless of load or environmental conditions. As long as the cooling system is suitably rated to deal with the heat load from the engine, the oil is unlikely to get too hot and break down.
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I'm not sure what your knowledge level is, so I'll go back a few steps. Oil gets thinner as it warms up, quite a bit through the temperature an engine will span from cold start up to normal operating temperature. A single grade oil that works well in a cold engine will be poor at operating temperature. If this single grade oil is optimised for normal operating conditions, it's going to be like treacle in a cold engine. Multigrade oil overcomes this by changing viscosity characteristics as it heats up, resulting in a constant effective viscosity through the temperature range. Oil works as a lubricant by creating a film between the two parts so that they don't rub on each other. Lubricity is a measure of how well the oil does this. Lubricity is a function of viscosity and the oil's chemistry. Thicker oils create a thicker film and improve separation between the parts (up to the limit of the tolerances between the parts). Oil chemistry looks at improving the oil's ability to prevent contact and friction at a given film thickness (basically making it more slippery). This is a way to give low viscosity oils better lubricity. It's a combination of basic oil chemistry and additive packages. Lower viscosity oils take less energy to pump around, reducing parasitic losses. They will also make it into all of the oil galleries faster from startup, so you improve cold running protection. Manufacturers like this because they can improve efficiency in the first instance, and protect the engine better from ignorant owners in the second. An additional consequence of lower viscosity is that it allows tighter tolerances between parts which can improve performance. So that 0W8 oil is going to be pretty thin all the way through the operating temperature range, and provided the chemistry is good enough, it should be more reliable and efficient. A side note on test cycles: they are not a reliable prediction of how the vehicle will perform on the road due to the variation of real world conditions from the test. What they do give is a basis for comparison: a better WLTP figure will on average mean better fuel consumption/lower emissions on the road. So if Toyota's test with the 0W8 has improved its official test rating, then it will also have improved its real world performance by some amount. Even if the test is done in bad faith by the manufacturer, basic physics still dictates that improvement in the test figure will improve real world too.
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AliExpress is a bit of a lottery when it comes to accurate descriptions and quality. Caveat emptor.
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Viscosity isn't the only parameter affecting how the oil performs. Modern lubricity additives will allow a lower viscosity oil function well compared to thicker 'conventional' oils. Lower viscosity means less work pumping it around, and more importantly I think it gets oil into all the moving parts faster since you're not waiting as long for the heat to thin it out.
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Probably damage to the wiring between the door and the body. If you have the door card off, you could try applying 12 V to the central locking motor to open it.
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Read here:
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Read here:
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That's an unusually short time for it to fail. Was the installation done correctly ? You do not want a single mass flywheel. The engine was designed specifically to use a DMF and components have been lightened as a result. A snapped crankshaft is not something you want to deal with.
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Pretty immediate if it's going to happen. I avoided all this hassle on mine by using Skoda's wiring kit. Everything plugs in neatly, and you get some nice bonus features: ESP towing mode (can detect and correct sway), engine/transmission knows you're towing and can modify its operation accordingly, alarm will go off if the trailer is unplugged while the car is locked, you'll get bulb out warnings for your trailer too.
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Our 2012 does, so I'd be surprised if a 2013 didn't. It's easy to check anyway, just pull up the seat base and see if the fittings are there.
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The tail lights are powered/controlled from the BCM. If you get this wrong you could fry the BCM (you wouldn't be the first). A new one of those is expensive. The subscription to erWin is a tiny fraction of the cost of a BCM. You get the factory wiring diagrams immediately (pdf download) and no more confusion or guessing. I can't help you because the diagrams I have are for my pre-facelift 2012 and may not be the same as the 2014 you have. (Even year to year there can be minor changes)
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It'll cost you less than a tenner to go on erWin for an hour and grab the Skoda wiring diagrams.
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You can buy the service manuals (which include the wiring diagrams) from Skoda at https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do
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Feed for the relay should come from a fused power supply from the fuse panel. Connection to the lights should only be for switching purposes. Any large current draw on a bulb connection could blow fuses or damage the BCM.
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You probably won't want to hear this, but single mass flywheel is a really bad idea. These engines were designed specifically around the DMF and the crankshaft is lightened since it doesn't have to withstand high shock and vibration loads. They're not strong enough to last long term with a SMF.
