chimaera

Ok, having done a little digging on this controller, it's not using the OEM harness, it comes with its own which is fitted in a similar manner to the OEM one, connecting to multiple fuses at the fuse panel (should be 43, 44, 45, and possible 8 & 9), and hooking into the CANBUS at the BCM. It looks like it may also have the additional power supplies for the caravan included internally like the OEM controller does (if fuses 43/44/45 are fitted it almost certainly does since these positions are reserved for this function). That bypass relay seems to be a pretty basic dumb one and shouldn't be connected to the towing controller at all. If the controller has this functionality built in, then having this relay fitted as well would definitely mess things up. Provided the correct power and CANBUS connections were made at the fuse panel/BCM it should just work, so as I suggested above I'd disconnect the bypass relay and see if the lighting functions are ok. It would be worth checking pins 9 & 10 on the towing socket too to see if they are showing 12 V - if they are then you can bin that bypass relay.

You can purchase the official Skoda service manuals from https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do including wiring diagrams. An hour's subscription is usually enough to get everything. You'll need your VIN handy to register. Can you show a picture of the connectors going to that module? Let's assume nothing about what's there since you've already spotted problems with the original installation. It would be really strange for someone to go to the effort of fitting the OEM wiring harness and not spend the little bit extra to fit the controller to go with it. Unless you strip down the boot liner panels and verify that the wiring is OEM it's safer to assume it's not and proceed accordingly. The reverse sensors should function normally with the controller unplugged, so this is a red flag. The correct way to handle parking sensors is send a signal over CANBUS to the parking sensor controller to disable the rear ones while a trailer is connected, and instruct the screen to display the trailer icon instead of the rear sensor position. Unplugging the controller should have no effect on the rest of the CANBUS network. For curiosity's sake, have you connected the caravan with just the lighting controller connected i.e. leave the bypass relay disconnected. This would help narrow things down - if the lights work normally without the bypass relay then we can focus our attention there. Proceed with care all the way along here - spurious voltages flying around the car can cause expensive damage to control modules. Check everything carefully.

Sounds like an aftermarket wiring kit. Can you post make/model for the controller and bypass relay? Get the wiring diagram for both controllers, and the car, and confirm that all wiring is correct to start with. Also check that your 13-pin socket is wired correctly. Figure out where the three power supplies for the caravan are being fed from too. Some towing controllers won't activate unless a trailer is connected, so probing individual pins may not produce the results you expect.

You may need to change the dampers too.

A diagnostic scan won't say much about the condition of the fans. You need to physically check them: any play in the bearings, damage to the blades, debris in the housing, etc. You need to check that there is nothing stuck in the radiator that would reduce airflow. If you have compressed air, blow it through the radiator from the engine bay to blow out any material that is stuck in it; don't blow from the outside because this will push stuff further into it.

Under less load the cooling system doesn't have to work as hard so it can keep temperature under control then. 160 km/h is hard work and the engine will get hotter, so if you have a small problem with the cooling system you will see it at that speed. The water temperature gauge is programmed to read 90 *C when the actual temperature is between 75 & 105 *C, so you won't see if the car is gradually getting hotter until it gets outside that range. Watch your oil temperature to see the true engine temperature. Check that the cooling fans are ok and the radiator is not blocked.

Those lights usually go on when batteey power is lost because the steering angle sensor loses its calibration. Start the engine then turn the wheel fully from lock to lock and they should go out.

Ok, sounds like the BCM is ok. What trim level do you have? Any optional extras? This will help figure out what other ECUs are fitted and where to look for faults.

Start by identifying which systems are working and which are not: go through every electrical feature or function in the car. From there you can start looking at all fuses and relays associated with them. Post the list of what's working and not working here and we can guide you.

Yes, there was a change to the type approval for the 2013 model year for the facelift, which is obvious from the tables I included in that thread.

Tyres evolve, so they might be called the same thing but might have subtle changes over your previous ones. You also have more tread on the new tyre so the carcass is going to be a little bit stiffer than on the worn tyre that came off. Correct pressure for this size is 2.1 bar front and 2.3 bar rear under normal load conditions, and 2.3/3.0 for fully laden. This should be printed on a sticker inside the fuel filler flap as well. I've done a detailed drill down on stock wheel/tyre combinations in this thread: Be very careful about going to a lower load index tyre. Depending on model year and engine, your car may only be type approved for 94W in the 17" size and going lower than this could be tricky in the event of an accident, depending on how vigilant an investigator might be.

This thread is 9 years old, you're probably not going to get a response from the OP at this point.

I'd be inclined to check for any connectors that weren't reconnected during the blower replacement. It's an easy thing to overlook.

It looks like you have a Fabia 3 rather than Fabia 2 which is this forum. You may get better responses if you post over there. What kind of display do you have on the dash? LCD or Maxidot? Post a pic if you're not sure which it might be. Do you have any steering wheel or wiper stalk controls to interact with the display on the dash? There might be a setup menu in there? I would also suggest reading through your owner's manual, if this is an option that's supposed to be available then it should tell you how to do it. If you don't have one, you can download it from Skoda's website, Google will find it pretty easily.

First thing is to verify the timing. If the timing is off far enough, the engine will lose compression because the valves are out of sync and it's impossible to get all the valves in any cylinder to close fully. So we don't worry about compression yet. Second thing is to use a borescope to check the condition of the pistons. If they have hit valves they will be marked. If the pistons look good then I think it's worth a shot at sorting out the timing. You're as well off fitting a new chain and tensioner once you get in there, given the labour involved.

The fault code is an indication that the ECU detected a problem. Resetting a fault code will not make the fault go away. Not resetting a fault code after repairing the cause will not cause the fault to re-occur. This is a red herring here.

Your best bet might be a private sale to someone with the skills and resources to do the repair themselves. You'll get more than a dealer is going to give you for it. Alternatively see if you can source a known good used engine.

^This. The differential will handle the difference in speed. It wouldn't be great for handling though.

Assuming the cylinder bore isn't badly damaged, the head has to come off to remove the piston and the oil pan has to come off to detach the con rod from the crankshaft. Lots of labour, and there may be a bunch of 'while-you're-in-there' parts to replace. This is doable with the engine in situ I think. It would be worth having a look into the cylinder with a borescope to see what things are like in there before you go any further.

Have you established where the leak is coming from? If it's hitting the spark plugs, it's probably getting in through the intake which would suggest crankcase ventilation or turbo. Turbo is easy enough to check if you pop off the high pressure hose going to the intake manifold and check for play in the shaft. A lot of oil in this area would also be a strong indicator.

A note on that M18 XZN holding the hub in place: it requires a tightening torque of 180 Nm followed by a further 180°. You'll need a large torque wrench to do this correctly.

Most servicing is distance based rather than time unless you're doing very low mileage. The main things I can think of outside the distance based schedule are cabin filter and brake fluid.

Push it on fully first to relieve tension on the release clip, then press the release clip and it should slide off.

I'm pretty certain the front diff and gearbox are in the same casing and share oil. Not 100% sure about the transfer case. I'd suggest you get hold of the service manual: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do

Standard 18" wheel on the Superb is ET40, so ET29 will be a bit further out towards the wheelarch. It'll increase steering castor a bit so you might find the steering heavier than you're used to.