BoxerBoy

If you can’t inspect them and make your own judgement then I’d look for a trusted independent inspection. I’ve had dealings with Stirling & Glasgow dealers and am convinced that they often make poor decisions and are always seeking ways to relieve us of our cash via unnecessary or “early” servicing of parts, as do most dealers. Of any description. As has been suggested above. 19,000 miles is a bit early to trash a set of discs. 3 years / 30K maybe. But there may be an underlying brake fault. Or you’re really Colin McRae. My 2017 car needed 2 sets of rear discs & pads under warranty, but some early ones came with cheese for brakes. 3rd set still looked good when the car departed. I think newer cars use an improved spec.

You’ll not regret it. A few “nice” extras makes it all the car you’ll ever need where have you seen that line before? 😀 Honestly, I enjoyed a 3 hour solo test drive in a new Defender costing at least £20K more than my car and I didn’t feel Short-Changed as I drove home in my Bear. No Keyless entry, no DSG paddles, no hot seats (or the buttons were very well hidden), and all the plastic trim and buttons were very hard and cheap looking/feeling.

Interesting read. With the basic kit using “fob” type controller, how does one see what mode is selected? It looks so simple without a display that I can’t figure out how you know where you are.

We’re all different. You have to make your own choices. I’m biased of course, having gone through this a few times. I wouldn’t touch ACC (constant battle PITA) Lane Assist (Ditto) HBA (ditto) Sun roof (Weight, noise, leaks) Tri-zone AC (did it - not worth it) Hot rear seats (Priority up front every day) Leather (Alcantara suits me all 4 seasons) Rear camera (not interested - I’m used to reversing via windows & mirrors) My preferences this time round? More BHP Spare wheel (always) DCC Virtual cockpit Colourful paint Hot seats (always) Hot screen (it’s Scotland FFS) Hot wheel (ditto) DSG Paddles Enjoy your selection. I do.

To cut a long story short - some folk love the feature, while others find it does not perform as well as a competent driver. I think your comment above alludes to a concern that the auto system cannot anticipate the road ahead as well as you can. You are correct

That’s them sorted now.

I like that. I regretted not tinting Kodiaq number 1, but I’m now going to tint number 2. The OEM tint is disappointing. Looks naff. Our Polo is much darker as standard. As are many other makes. I’ve had several tinted cars over 20+ years. May leave the tailgate standard, or go for medium as I recognise that reversing in a dark, wet winter’s night can be tricky.

I had Skoda door blinds on a previous Superb. The grandchildren liked playing with them. But I’m getting the Bear tinted in the near future as the factory tint is disappointing. Regretted not tinting the the first Kodiaq. As an aside, my first tint job was in 1998 😃

Looks like you’re working backwards from a possible answer. Working forwards - how would you spec up your preferred car? The fundamental differences between SE - SEL - Edition trim before adding extras is the starting point. Each trim level has it’s fanboys. For some the trim level is a basic Go/NoGo decision.

See AC comments above. Looks like you’re on top of the “smell” issue. Or lack of. Car will give dash warning when key fob battery is low. Then will still work OK for ages. Mine is a CR2032 (I think) buy a few for pennies online and change when the need arises. In fact go practice opening your key fob right now. Wiper blades cost pennies (compared with dealer) online also. Buy some Bosch blades now. Store them in the boot. And fit them in 2 minutes when you shred the current blades.

I can live with this. Wasn’t hanging around when the opportunity arose. Loosening up nicely. Due to COVID I’m only at 1500 miles or so. ps - previous Kodiaq gave me a genuine 38mpg over 30K miles and 3 years.

I’ve changed batteries on previous cars without a wrestling (and swearing) match. I’ve also read the useful Key Fob threads in the Octavia page, but my key fob internals have a different layout. Having seen the Low Batt message a few times on the dash in recent weeks I decided to open my 3 fobs and select the best battery for my No.1 key. Expecting all 3 to last another month till departure day. So I did RTFM. Surprisingly, Fob 1 opened up without much difficulty, but no way could I get 2 and 3 to open. Brute force in the wrong place of course was going to break something (expensive). With hindsight I’m not really sure how I managed to pop No1 first time. Long story short - there’s a very special location for a narrow bladed screwdriver (or ex-screwdriver in my case) to slide up a “ramp” inside the fob and pop one end of the cover and allow it to be prised off without damage. The manual simply says “stick a screwdriver in and turn it” without providing the vital clue regarding precise location. No chance. All is revealed, literally, when you get it open.

Don't **** about about here about "I wish" - "I want" - I dream" Who's put their money where their mouth is?? Me - SEL 190 4x4 DSG Quartz Grey. Plus a few extras. Due April. Please only post when you actually have the car