BoxerBoy

If you can’t inspect them and make your own judgement then I’d look for a trusted independent inspection. I’ve had dealings with Stirling & Glasgow dealers and am convinced that they often make poor decisions and are always seeking ways to relieve us of our cash via unnecessary or “early” servicing of parts, as do most dealers. Of any description. As has been suggested above. 19,000 miles is a bit early to trash a set of discs. 3 years / 30K maybe. But there may be an underlying brake fault. Or you’re really Colin McRae. My 2017 car needed 2 sets of rear discs & pads under warranty, but some early ones came with cheese for brakes. 3rd set still looked good when the car departed. I think newer cars use an improved spec.

You’ll not regret it. A few “nice” extras makes it all the car you’ll ever need where have you seen that line before? 😀 Honestly, I enjoyed a 3 hour solo test drive in a new Defender costing at least £20K more than my car and I didn’t feel Short-Changed as I drove home in my Bear. No Keyless entry, no DSG paddles, no hot seats (or the buttons were very well hidden), and all the plastic trim and buttons were very hard and cheap looking/feeling.

Interesting read. With the basic kit using “fob” type controller, how does one see what mode is selected? It looks so simple without a display that I can’t figure out how you know where you are.

We’re all different. You have to make your own choices. I’m biased of course, having gone through this a few times. I wouldn’t touch ACC (constant battle PITA) Lane Assist (Ditto) HBA (ditto) Sun roof (Weight, noise, leaks) Tri-zone AC (did it - not worth it) Hot rear seats (Priority up front every day) Leather (Alcantara suits me all 4 seasons) Rear camera (not interested - I’m used to reversing via windows & mirrors) My preferences this time round? More BHP Spare wheel (always) DCC Virtual cockpit Colourful paint Hot seats (always) Hot screen (it’s Scotland FFS) Hot wheel (ditto) DSG Paddles Enjoy your selection. I do.

To cut a long story short - some folk love the feature, while others find it does not perform as well as a competent driver. I think your comment above alludes to a concern that the auto system cannot anticipate the road ahead as well as you can. You are correct

That’s them sorted now.

I like that. I regretted not tinting Kodiaq number 1, but I’m now going to tint number 2. The OEM tint is disappointing. Looks naff. Our Polo is much darker as standard. As are many other makes. I’ve had several tinted cars over 20+ years. May leave the tailgate standard, or go for medium as I recognise that reversing in a dark, wet winter’s night can be tricky.

I had Skoda door blinds on a previous Superb. The grandchildren liked playing with them. But I’m getting the Bear tinted in the near future as the factory tint is disappointing. Regretted not tinting the the first Kodiaq. As an aside, my first tint job was in 1998 😃

Looks like you’re working backwards from a possible answer. Working forwards - how would you spec up your preferred car? The fundamental differences between SE - SEL - Edition trim before adding extras is the starting point. Each trim level has it’s fanboys. For some the trim level is a basic Go/NoGo decision.

See AC comments above. Looks like you’re on top of the “smell” issue. Or lack of. Car will give dash warning when key fob battery is low. Then will still work OK for ages. Mine is a CR2032 (I think) buy a few for pennies online and change when the need arises. In fact go practice opening your key fob right now. Wiper blades cost pennies (compared with dealer) online also. Buy some Bosch blades now. Store them in the boot. And fit them in 2 minutes when you shred the current blades.

I can live with this. Wasn’t hanging around when the opportunity arose. Loosening up nicely. Due to COVID I’m only at 1500 miles or so. ps - previous Kodiaq gave me a genuine 38mpg over 30K miles and 3 years.

go for it. You’ll love it

Let’s not mix our apples and pears - with AC systems and pollen filters. A filter is clean or not. Simple. Change it. Losing 10% per year of your AC gas is ****** in my 20+ years experience of cars with AC. My AC systems are functionally tested every time the cars are driven as they are always ON. I’ll know when they need a “service” when the performance drops off. Then I’ll pop into my local service emporium and have the AC “serviced”. Skoda dealers just want to unjustifiably screw us at every turn.

‘cos it wasn’t broken!

Ever re-gassed your fridge or freezer. No ****in’ chance. They're all At It.

smaller = cheaper = far more choice of tyre And some favour narrower for better grip in snow.

if you were asking me, then they’re Nanuqs.

You can never have enough grunt when towing. You’ll find out what works best when fully loaded making a hill start. Or heavens above, having to overtake someone - like the 55 mph Audi driver on the motorway a couple of days ago when I was riding shotgun with someone hauling a 7m caravan with a 3L X5. Now that has Grunt!

19” summer and 17” winter on my Kodiaq. All good. No mods needed.

When I was ordering my (2nd) SEL it was easy to get close to £40K I made sure it was registered in March.

And yesterday got home after 1 night away. 700+ miles on glorious roads. I didn’t see any other track bikes on my travels.

Yesterday. Track session. Captain Slow. But was fun. Even when it rained.

Forget the registration. Focus on the spec. Hang on for the spec you ordered or you’ll likely regret taking 2nd best. I know I would. Push for confirmation of build and delivery dates.

The Virtual Cockpit certainly takes a bit of getting used to. There are an amazing number of permutations for the display. With DCC giving 5 driving modes, VC allowing Auto plus multiple Style options, it takes forever to reach an optimum option. Yesterday was only my second long drive (100+ miles) since delivery in March and it took a while to remember how to change the screen display - as mentioned above. I just keep pressing Mode button and View button on wheel to see the options. ps - my 2 favourites are Sport view with concentric RPM and speed or blackout minimum.

That would be either careless. Or stupid.