BoxerBoy

I didn’t see Blind Spot accessory offered when I was ordering. What package or bundle is it supposed to be included in for a Kodiaq?

OK mine’s a Kodiaq, but one reason I don’t use (don’t like) Apple taking over my dashboard, is because I do like the ability to handle incoming calls and outgoing calls to Recent Callers via the RH button on the steering wheel.

Enjoy. You’re collecting the same as my Kodiaq on order. I’m about to hand back my second diesel 190 SEL. Love them for the all round package for the money. Mine is a factory order to get my “long list of essential extras”, so ordered in November and have been told I’m Build Week 6 which is next week. Chose the FOC blue instead of £1,000 red (again). Looking forward to life with petrol after many years of driving Dirty Diesel 😀

Velvet Red is lovely. I’ve enjoyed it for 3 years, but as Skoda are charging £1,000+ for Red on a Kodiaq now, I’m going for FOC blue on the incoming replacement.

I’m not fussed about car lamps because I don’t **** around with my excellent LED headlamps. And my bike strolls through an MOT every year with an excellent HID conversion. I still reckon a car will get through an MOT if the headlamps are pointing the right way. What do the MOT Guides say about LED bulbs “Check HID and LED headlamps for mandatory levelling and cleaning devices” and the assessor needs to check the lighting for “Operation“, “Security” and “Condition” which essentially means that they need to make sure that they work and are fitted correctly. That’s it. Nothing else is mentioned regarding the use of LED headlight bulbs. Now you would be forgiven for thinking that aftermarket LED bulbs would therefore fail an MOT as you would not have a self-levelling or headlight cleaning system installed. However Section 4.1.5 of the MOT inspection manual states that not all vehicles are fitted with a levelling device so if your vehicle doesn’t have one, it would not be tested. Brexit 2021 Update Please note that since January 2021, the MOT Inspection manual has been updated to include LED bulbs. Section 4.1.4 now states the following: “Existing halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.” This is a brand new update that seems to only focus on headlights. There are no mentions to fail other LED bulbs such as brake lights, tail lights or reversing lights. With no other mention of after-market LEDs in the MOT guidelines, all that is left is for them to check is that the beam pattern is correct and the colour of the light is predominantly white, white with a blue tint or yellow. Any good quality after-market LED bulbs will meet this criteria. As long as the beam pattern and the colour of the light is correct – then there is no reason an LED upgrade bulb will fail an MOT.

HID and LED replacement bulbs are permitted at MOT time. (the silly government proposal was overturned when someone pointed out that many older vehicles had already been modified for good reason - better lighting, lower power usage, etc) I’ve used HIDs in my bike for years. Brilliant. But - the beam pattern must be ok to pass the MOT. And will be checked. Some after market bulbs Do Not sit properly as per the OEM bulbs and throw a poor beam spread. Even though they are brighter. And might/will dazzle oncoming drivers. Not good.

A. I’d try a breaker first of all for a complete unit. B. consider working out how few new parts are needed and order from dealer. Any competent body shop could swap out a mirror, complete with a lick of paint.

On the odd occasion I choose to park with either side lights or left/right parking lamps I can rely on the car to let me know. Slight digression - I did jump out of a car in a foreign airport when I worked abroad with lamps in On position, must have missed the feeble buzzer, then returned 2 or 3 days later to a dead car. Very inconvenient.

Through winter I just leave the main lamp switch in the ON position in our Kodiaq & Polo. Unlike some cars, the lamps turn off when you switch off, so no chance of running down the battery. Love it.

Plenty useful tips in here. And plenty rubbish too 😀 Stick with it, you’ll find all you need to know.

On the face of it, looks like a bargain. That's a big gap. Buy to keep. Or buy to sell on.

After a long period of "no news", today I got a surprise call back from dealer and was told Build Week is 6. That's a pleasant surprise. Last Monday I chatted with VWFS directly, to be clear on the extension options. They were very relaxed. Can extend for anything - like 12 months - and return car at any time when new one shows up. Looks like delivery will maybe fit nicely with the original 3 year termination in March. Fingers crossed.

I’ve got one car with “normal” cruise and one with ACC. I prefer normal, because ACC just cannot read the road and provide a smooth drive. End of story really. Some folk get along fine with ACC letting them have a snooze or play with their phone, dashboard Apps or whatever, while the car visibly slows down on motorways, tucked in behind an arctic. I’ve often noticed cars gluing themselves to my rear end, probably with ACC doing it’s thing.

It’s not rocket science…… https://www.willtheyfit.com/wheels/ ….. but I’ve been swapping wheels for years. Mostly VAG.

The routine BCA letter dropped through the door this morning. ”We have some great news: you do not have to part with your vehicle” Always makes me smile. They mean “please pay us lots of money and keep your car and save us the bother of collecting it and re-selling it.” Anyway, a few keystrokes got me a preliminary price to buy. Top retail price as expected - £26,500. Compares with online adverts. My car is in A1 condition with lots of desirable extras. I’ll hand it back, but only after several months extending the contract to await the on order car.

I don’t think he was being objectionable. I think he was simply pointing out that Mr Toot (now on his 2nd generation handle) is guilty of pontificating in almost every strand on this forum, and who in the past has been almost objectionable himself. So much so that I for one long ago added him to my “ignore list”.

Do you mean the basic SEL spec? What do you want to know? I have an 04/2017 launch brochure plus a little 10/2016 pre-launch booklet. Have the second one as pdf if you’d like a copy sent, but these booklets don’t contain the full build spec lists that have been available online for several years now.

My Kodiaq is on PCH not PCP so there is no up front “final payment” or “balloon” like the PCP GFV. But in reality they do offer it to you at top dollar to save them - BCA actually - from collecting it. I’ve already gone through this process with my wife’s Polo that expired in December so we’re into a 3 month extension on that one. BTW - today I called both my VW and Skoda dealers to ask about Build Week situations and neither phoned back when “my man” was unavailable when I called. Useless Shiites.

Today I received the standard VWFS letter pointing out my PCH deal ends in March. (as if I’d forget) What would I like to do? (A) extend contract? (B) buy the car? (no price mentioned - you have to ask) (C) return the car? (suffer the BCA inspection for Fair Wear And Tear and hope for a clean sheet without penalties) I shall ask the buying price out of interest, but based on previous experience it will be top dollar in line with anything showing online with Auto Trader and/or dealers. So I’m unlikely to go chasing a £10 profit. One of tomorrow’s jobs is to phone dealer and ask for build week, hence an estimate of delivery, for new car ordered in December. The probable outcome will be an extension of 3 to 6 months. I do like this car, which is why the next one will be exactly the same in a different colour.

I was simply quoting a real example of a 2022 example in a VW showroom. Not a recommendation.

My older boy recently chased a dropped screw on his motor bike with a plastic tube taped to a vacuum cleaner nozzle. Wasn’t the final solution for him but worth a try.

It’s sure a mad world out there and we’re all different with different priorities and/or preferences. We’re just home from visiting a friend who I’d been told was considering changing her car. For no good reason other than it’s about 5 years old. Bought and paid for. Low miles. Mint condition. Right size. Suits her needs nicely. I left her with the suggestion to keep it and not be afraid of an MOT test and any routine maintenance work.

Here's a wildcard option. PCH Not PCP. PCH gets you a new car - any car - for xxx pounds per month with a first payment of 3x or 6x or 9x monthly payment. Much less than a several thousand pound PCP deposit. How about an ID4 for £10,000 deposit plus £500+ per month - recently spotted in my local dealer. I call it rent-a-car - because that's what many of us are doing under both the PCP and PCH banners. The above suggestions are perfectly OK, I've considered a bank loan to buy a PCP car, i.e. pay the balloon payment, but decided against it as I'd end up with a 5, 6, 7 year old car and quite frankly I don't think any cars are built to last anymore. Bills get hefty then. I've also paid a balloon payment then sold the car at a decent profit (changed days now) ps - I'm a double PCH fan

That's almost nothing compared to some of us. Go give them a good exercise and they'll be shiny all round when you get home.

A dealer will always try to sell you what he’s got. Not what you want/need. Always go in hard and tell them what you want after making up your own mind. I don’t tow these days, but reckon you can never have enough power/torque for a comfortable towing journey. I’m moving from 190 diesel to 190 petrol this year as I’m not a high mileage driver. Gonna be interesting running worse mpg vs. lower fuel cost. I’d be happy towing a wee caravan with 190 horses in my Kodiaq - petrol or diesel. But nothing less.