vrs'burks

Front wishbone rear bush is a known weakpoint, the dealers put grease in the gap in the bush I believe to "solve" the clunking. I've recently replaced- top mounts,top mount bearings,springs and droplinks and still occasionally get odd knocks on the drivers side, so the bushings will be the next thing I look at I think.

Carbon collective sateen. Also have megs endurance The carbon collective stuff keeps the tyre looking fresh for way longer than most tyre dressings(3weeks-ish) and its a nice factory fresh look (unless you layer it up if you want glossyness)

The "245 special edition" has power adjustable front seats with 3 position memory I believe, so I would think its available on other models in the range, finding one that's had it speced as an option might prove difficult. I would have thought most "L&K" model octavias would have power seats as they were the range toppers.

My old fabia vrs came with no vrs badge on the grille when I bought it. . I bought a vrs badge that came with a backing plate (genuine item) . .I used araldite to fasten that to the grille then the badge stuck to the backing plate . . Still on there now 11 years later. Have you tried www.kopacek.com for a badge? . .

Just get a picture as an example and get a good wrapping company to do it with black vinyl.

It might not be a skoda, but a worthy reflection shot non the less?

I can't tell that it handles any differently at all. . I ran my fabia vrs with spacers for 7+years and could never tell the difference with that either. Obviously with a wider track stability should be improved, but its a roadcar i carry my son and missus around in not a track car so I'm not throwing it around bends anyway 😅

I can't see going up to 18s causing issue, as long as you stay as close as possible to the rolling diameter of the current wheels. . Vrs 18s are 18x7.5j et51 with 225/40/18 tyres. i recently put 15mm spacers alround on my vrs taking the offset to et36.(also on h+r 25mm lowering springs) Also worth noting that the facelift vrs has different front and rear track widths from the factory than a standard octavia (slightly narrower at the front and wider at the back) Getting the wheels to sit right in the arches can transform the look of a car IMO so I'd personally go for a lower offset wheel, they look better.

Does it dry white/chalky? And does the car give off a sweet kind of smell when the engine is hot? Could be the dreaded water pump housing failure. Check your coolant level. . If its low,top up and keep an eye on it. . If it goes down again its leaking somewhere. . And would most likely be waterpump.

Gpf is in the front section of exhaust where it's hot. . For it to work properly. It won't make any noise, it doesn't have any pumps or anything, it's just a chemical reaction/filtration happening inside it with the exhaust gasses. If the noise is towards the rear and you've just had fuel pump work, I would suspect something Is still wrong.

All your questions covered here. . . Pretty much. I've just lastweek fitted h&r springs and 15mm spacers alround, but the 15s are going to have to come off the rear in favour of 10mm's . . . I have the facelift which has a wider rear track (38mm wider as standard on the rear than the pre-facelift) . .so the facelift as standard is almost the same as pre-facelift with 20mm spacers on the rear. I also have a maxton v3 splitter sat in the house that I don't think I will be fitting now, it will make the car impractical and be catching the front end everywhere. I also beached it on my parents drive this week. . . The h&r springs don't sound like much of a drop at just 25mm on the vrs. . But its enough. (And Ive spent years driving decked impractical cars)

"There are now more options in the "Driving Mode" bit. Chassis can be normal or sport. Not sure exactly what this does" Mk3 has this if it was spec'd from the factory with DCC. it changes the dampers to be firmer in sport.

I've only recently got My octy (6months-ish) But I part ex'd my mazda3 mps for it. . .that was a 2010 model (57k miles when I got rid), I paid 10500 for it just over 6 years ago. . Took almost 6k part ex for it. .less than a week later it was back on autotrader for 9995. In the 6 years I'd had it the sellers price had only dropped £505!?!?! Crazy market at the moment.

Chirp would need to be done via VCDS or obdeleven I believe. . As for self locking, if you don't open the door within a minute of unlocking the car it should relock its self.

Hi all. I know there's plenty covering h and r springs on the forum. . But also some confusion on part numbers. So I want to make sure I'm ordering the correct ones first. I've found the below on a thread, and then below that is the data plate from my door. . If the information on these 2 pics is correct I need part no 28833-1 ??? My car is a tsi dsg mk3Fl hatchback I'm guessing 228833-2 is for the heavier tdi engined vrs? Thanks in advance.

From what I've read, performance gains are minimal. . But you do gain the noise (personal preference as to whether that's your thing) . . I almost ordered one lastweek in the black friday sales. . If your going to spend that much its gotta be combined with the intake pipe and turbo elbow. Other options are the MST mqb intake, that has a very industrial but nice look. Or ramair jetstream. . I haven't used any of them personally,but there the main 3 as far as I know. Other alternative is the pikey intake mod ( take out the snow grate in the airbox and block off the airflow into the engine bay on the intake tract- vw actually sell this as a genuine part)

https://www.dpmperformance.co.uk/car-parts/skoda/octavia/hr-25mm-lowering-suspension-springsoctavia-5e-20132019-20tsi-vrs-20tdi-vrs These are basically 40mm springs,but as the vrs is 15mm lower from factory, they achieve a 25mm drop on a vrs.

The scout is the model with black wheel arches and lifted ride. . Its the equivalent of audi's all road models. . . This is the scout. As far as I'm aware the 4x4 is no different in ride height.

Wouldn't the suspension off of an octavia scout be the easiest option? But although these are higher in ride height, would the spring rates be enough to still support the loads you are carrying? . .it might droop the same as standard once loaded up?. . . .probably Wouldn't but probably worth exploring. What about something like air spring supporters? https://air-lift.co.uk/load-support/universal-air-helper-kits These go down the center on the spring and can be pumped up when really loaded up in the rear, then deflated to give back standard ride when not needed.

Do you have any idea what the TPI number is? I would have thought tdi or tsi won't make a difference . . They are still MQB chassis. . Unless the weight of the diesel engine can make the difference. I went to look at an octy at the donny skoda dealer, the sales man opened the car from inside the dealership and stayed there. . Didn't seem arsed at all. . Along with the car having a massive scrape down the rear quarter and bumper I soon left (that was a 19plate car and up at over 20k. . I couldn't believe they had the cheek to display it in the state the body work was in, to be honest) Darkside is very close to Me, but if it was just to have top mounts replaced I have a mechanic that is more than capable, I've been looking and there is quite a few aftermarket mounts out there, most boasting how crap the oem ones are. 🙄

I had a rattle in my drivers door(mk3fl) that was driving me insane on uneven Road surfaces. . But I think I pin pointed it at the weekend. . It's was the button to lock out the rear window switches (so kids can't activate the rear windows). . .it was rattling back and fourth inside the hole its recessed into. . So for now I've just jammed a piece of card into the gap between the button and trim around it, until I can find a way to fix it that looks neater than a bit of card shoved in it. . .which at the moment I'm stumped with. . . I can live with a bit of card stuck up more than I could the rattle.

Hey everyone. My car is developing what I'm 99% sure is topmount bearing noise when slow manoeuvring, not so much a creaking but more of a bearing moving kind of noise (people who have had it I'm sure will know what I mean). . I've has it on other cars too. . My car only has 27k on and is a 68 plate facelift vrs. What are my chances of getting it sorted under warranty? . . I've only owned the car just over 4 months and it's already had the water pump replaced and had issues on the drive home from the dealer 🙄. . I've seen some tuning company's have made "upgraded" versions of the topmounts/bearings. . If I have to do them myself, are these worth the extra or am I better sticking with a OEM style topmount? Thanks. Luke.

I'm pretty sure the pump noise is an electric coolant pump to keep it circulating for a bit after the engines stopped. . . With ambient temperatures on the way down at this time of year, maby its not needed? I'm sure mine has not made the pump noise a few times when I've switched off, I've just never really thought anymore about it.

Thanks for this! Really helpful, all be it disappointing 😪 Having a TPI it's a well known issue with skoda then?. . Hopefully it won't worsen, I'm guessing by the time it could become bad (big droplets) it would be outside warranty period and skoda will stick up the middle finger if asked for replacement under warranty...

Hi all I've done a search and found a couple of threads about headlights misting across the bottom where the DRL's are located. . . It also seems to be an issue on the superbs too. . But I've only had the car a few months, now the temperature outside is dropping, I've come out to my car tonight and all 4 light clusters look like this. . From what I've read this is considered "normal" . . But it is going to drive my ocd mad, it genuinely devalues the look of the car for me. . I also have a 56 plate fabia that I have owned 10+ years and never had anything like this. . So . . It is normal? Or should I run it past the dealer i bought it from? Thanks.