fabdavrav

Easy ....if as you say 80% of the charging is done at 3A....& you have a 096 case size battery, which are usually 70Ah.....therefore 80% of 70Ah = 56Ah, divided by 3A =18.66hrs.... My Ctek MXS10 (which has 8 separate charging "steps") does the "bulk" charging at 14.7V at 10A..therfore it takes 5.6 hours to get it to 80%...this is why my battery, & the charger cables & the charger get warm....way more current is being applied...

Tonight was possibly the last time swimming this year...hopefully back at early in the new year...pool opening times etc all depending!.. Anyway manged 80-84 lengths (lost 100% accurate count) of a 25m pool in 56ish mins...& two full underwater lengths..(single length at a time & start at the shallow end, no diving in & harder). Foots doing ok ish..breathing is back to how it was pre-covid, when I was last doing loads of swimming...& I'm finding my rhythm much easier...!!!! Still slow compared to when I was doing 100-110 lengths in 60mins back circa 2008, or when I did 200 lengths in 1hr 49mins in 1992 (Swimathon'92, could have been 10mins faster if had not shared a lane with 5 other people).......but I'm older & the body is a bit more FUBAR since then!!....😂

If you need any ideas on OEM & good mods & problem solving for the Golf I am on the MK7 Golf forum..& have written a lot of mods...& still doing them!...even though my MK7 Golf estate is now 9yrs old! I'm under a different name on the "golfmk7" forum...I did link my threads to a list on the MK3 Octavia section (as its the same car more or less)...If you need any help you know where to find me!

Owning two white estates in Scotland..in winter....have you taken out shares in a detailing company???.....😂

I've had my current Ctek for about 9yrs..I had a smaller Ctek one for a few years before that... Mine is a "MSX 10".....besides the normal lead acid type charge function & associated "recon" functions....it has a separate charge cycle for AGM batteries, & also a "12V supply" function.... Copes with batteries from 20Ah upto 200Ah....& will provide "12V supply" to upto 300Ah batteries...(according to the specs) Output varies from 13.6V/10Amp...to 16V/1.5Amp....for AGM its mainly 14.7V/10A max.....But the case says the "nominal" of 12V/10A.... Like I say after 7hrs it gets warm (fully charging my 70Ah AGM).....considering all the cables etc are more or less "in free air"...I'd hate to see that heat in the tightly wound (& covered in Tessa tape) internal wiring from the the 12V cigarette socket in the centre console to the battery.....In electronics you have to "de-rate" the capacity of cables when they are "encased" due to heat build up....

Doubt it..... its rated correctly for the output of the charger.....they are warm.....not hot...mind you the battery is nice & warm...but thats after 7hrs...& its a 70Ah AGM battery...& typical of any charger when left for that length of time when actually in a charging phase..(not trickle maintenance phase)..

Your above statements proving that you are still "living complete fantasy world." 11yrs on......as you've still not bothered (purposely) to read the exact posted engine specs of both the ABT car & my car... You're just trolling other members of the forum now as you were 11yrs ago......& still basically calling ABT liars...

So basically 11yrs on & you're still calling ABT a bunch of liars, ...with no proof i.e taking their car & placing it on a known accurate dyno & proving it hasn't got 140bhp... You'd look a fool in front of a Court of Law... I just feel sorry for the new members on here that you are spouting rubbish to like the OP of this thread...

My Ctek charger takes 7hrs to do my 70Ah battery...😬....when its low...& by that time the charger cables & battery are nice & warm!!.....I wouldn't like to see that heat in the 12v socket & the wires from the centre console back to the Battery..!!!...😬

Don't know what happened there & can't delete this duplicate quoted post!...

The Battery BCM is connected to fuse holder B (next to battery) which also has the connections for the Battery & the starter & starter relays....the 12V sockets are on fuseboard C (behind the glovebox on UK cars).... I prefer to keep electrical paths as direct as possible....& I do know that you can use maintenance/supply plug-ins via the 12V sockets, & I see this as short term say 30mins whilst you do a battery swap..... doing a battery charge which can take 6hrs I prefer to use the main terminals as I stated above...

Yes & no, its my mothers.....B&O 2000 circa 1985yr....I really need to strip the speakers down (CX100) & re foam all the cones as they are going.....& thats 2 per speaker..so 4 cones!.....A few years back I re-capped part of the cassette deck & the amp & placed new belts in the record & cassettes decks...it really should be overhauled, but it hardly gets used!! My system is all digital...Denon CD/Amp/Tuner/Network player with modified Monitor Audio speakers....Its good because it can cope with 24bit 192kHz FLAC files...I like it when they release the studio masters!

Nice selection of Naim....standard or "improved" via Avondale Audio?..

Photo from by above mentioned thread....bottom right...you always (for cars with stop/start) connect the positive "+" wire of the charger to the "+" on the battery....& then the negative "-" wire of the charger to the bayonet fitting "-" on the bulkhead... Forget using the 12v sockets/cigarette lighter sockets on these cars with stop/start...

Called "Scandinavian DRLs"......can be coded using OBD11 or VCDS....

You have the 1.5lt 110kW EVO2 EA211 engine, & looking at the ERWIN guide on it... ....yours has "ACT +"...which compared to the original "ACT", means :-"The Active Cylinder Management ACT+ is a further development of the previous Active Cylinder Management ACT system. In the ACT system, only cylinders 2 and 3 were switched off. In the ACT+ system, cam contours on the exhaust and inlet side, which have been optimised for two-cylinder mode, are additionally switched over for cylinders 1 and 4. Furthermore, the cams on the inlet side are twisted towards retarded by 30° crankshaft angle (°CS). This measure reduces fuel consumption during the switch-over process." These are screenshots for the conditions of ACT+:- There's about a further 14 pages of graphs/diagrams that show the activation & firing orders etc, but I'm not posting all of that lot!!...

TBH I didn't see this thread until post no.3 which was recent.......& then I noticed his post no2. stating..."ABT did a kit for the AUB or BBZ with cams, induction and piggyback ECU and it made about 125 BHP" Which is utter rubbish & this to another member on the forum......!!!! Thats the only reason I placed the correct info out...too many idiots giving out utter rubbish to unsuspecting people on the forums!!...

So your saying ABT lied about their 140bhp Fabia version & yet you have no proof like placing one of their cars on a dyno & proving them wrong.... ..........yet the person in the first post in this thread actual owns an ABT one & had it on a dyno & it was producing 140bhp... You're still trolling the same as ever...11yrs later!!...

& your proof is what??

For the record the ABT spec kept the stock induction box & stock exhaust, & the output was 140bhp....& you should know that as you were in these threads, but you were spending your time trolling me.... Info on the 1.4lt 16v AUB (100bhp) VAG engine, ABT tune for everybody:- From a person who owned one:- https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/227645-what-a-weird-day/?do=findComment&comment=2676903 QUOTE:- Had an email from ABT today with a the list of mods I have no idea what level 2 is and I have asked for more clarification but I am waiting for a reply so for now, the list of mods. ABT - POWER INCREASEMENT Skoda Fabia (6J) 1,4 ltr. 16v from 99 HP to approx. 140 HP consisting of: ECU (AEC) Remap level 2, bracket set, cable harness, iridium spark plugs, mounting kit, camshaft upgrade level 2, ignition lead upgrade, air filter replacement and upgrade level 2 ABT - SUSPENSION INCREASEMENT Skoda Fabia (6J) 1,4 ltr. 16v consisting of: reinforced front and rear springs END QUOTE:- Link to an old thread & my comment https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/224939-abt-fabia-14/?do=findComment&comment=2867937 QUOTE:- And heres my list clarifying what ABT confirmed they did to the car.... In Plain english (this is a german company remember) the mods are, Remap or piggyback ECU. Iridium Spark plugs. Camshaft upgrade. Ignition lead upgrade. Upgraded air filer element. Stiffer lowered springs. ABT nor any other company is going to make a "kit" from scratch IF there are mods/parts out there "off the shelf" as it would be idiotic!! Eibach would have supplied the springs as they make the Skoda kits for the car The Camshafts are probably Schrick as they make 244, 252, & 268 duration cams for the "roller" type heads fitted to the AUB engine.......(for the earlier "bucket" type heads fitted to 1996yr Polo 1.4 16v AFH they make 256, 264, 280, and a wild 292!!! this head is known as being more reliable and will take 8000rpm plus) NGK are OEM fit for most VAG cars so it makes sense to use their Iridium spark plugs. Magnacor are the only ones who list a "performance"...3 different types for that engine spark plug leads ABT would have fitted all the stuff too their car and put it in their dyno test cell they have and custom written a map after long testing!!!! The original thread caught the attention of some TROLLS unfortunately!.... END QUOTE To the OP of this thread:- The Magneti-Marelli ECU's fitted to the AUB engine are an absolute pig to tune..... I had an AUB 16 100bhp Fabia...these were the engine mods I did:- Mobil 1 engine oil Millers Oils 75w - 90w Fully synthetic Motorsport gearbox oil Magnacor Competition spec KV85 ignition leads NGK “Iridium IX” spark plugs BKR6EIX-11 (3764) (a recommended upgrade by NGK for the original fitment NGK BKUR6ET-10) Green Cotton Twister 75mm air filter based sealed cold air system Remus S/S exhaust back box 2 x 92x78mm B.M. full S/S 200 cell cat’ and front pipe I had to later on remove the 200cell race CAT as the ECU kept throwing up "too lean" type codes. Basically the car was operating so well that it was producing very little emissions & the ECU was not seeing enough "scrub" of the emissions between the two Lambda sensors...& to "tell" the ECU that these result were acceptable would have required what was known as a custom "stage 2" (similar to the ABT one) re-write/flash...costing £££££ ......plus a trip down south to a specialist for the car...so I gave up on that & simply removed the race CAT!!!.... My old Fabia AUB engine which had about 120bhp...:-

If you have the "stop start" function, you have to fit either an EFB or an AGM, as they can cope with the heavy/deep discharge cycles & provide more power compared to "basic lead acid type". EFB is cheaper, AGM is safer as you can turn the case upside down & even crack the case & no liquid will come out as the liquid is held in the Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM).....& they cost more because of this. The MQB platform battery tray has 3 positions for the battery hold down bracket.....& VAG usually fit the size down from what the car ideally should have... Ignore the Ah/rating on the Factory batteries as VAG use strange ratings on a standard battery case size designation. I ripped out my factory mid sized Battery case size H5/027/Group 47, 59Ah/320A (DIN), EFB type battery & replaced it with the bigger case size H6/096/Group 48, 70Ah, 760A CCA (EN/SAE) AGM in January 2015yr....still going strong....I wrote a "how to guide" here...all info in first post:- How to retro-fit a bigger capacity battery to a Mk7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum Mind you I have a Ctek charger that does normal & AGM types & also works as a 12V supply. There is usually gaps between the rubber seals on the bonnet & the top of the grill & the wires will go though that without being caught so you can close the car completely when charging. When you swap the battery you need to code the BCM as per my thread above:- VCDS coding required From the Main screen:- Select Control Module [Select] [19-CAN Gateway] Advanced Functions screen:- [Adaptions-10] New value choice screen:- Change the following four channels, inputting the relevant data about the new battery. IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number When you click on "Battery technology" (using VCDS 21.3.0) a drop down list appears with the following options (= actual meaning):- Wet = Standard Lead Acid Fleece = Standard A.G.M. Wickel6V Wickel12V Ultracap Gel = Standard Gel Lead Acid Lithium ions = Standard LiFePO4 EFB = Standard E.F.B. Binary - AGM = "Bipolar" A.G.M. type EFB+ = E.F.B. "Plus" type Not_assigned_10 Not_assigned_11 Not_assigned_12 Not_assigned_13 Not_assigned_14 Unknown According to various sources of information, including numerous car scans & threads on Ross-Tech, "Fleece" is for standard AGM batteries, "EFB" is for standard EFB batteries, & "Wet" is for standard lead acid batteries, as these settings are used at the factory. The setting of "Binary - AGM" is apparently for specialist "Bipolar AGM" batteries! Also the drop down list is from VCDS & not generated by your car's BCM, therefore, your car may not support all the options on the list, & the BCM will reject the value when you tell it to accept it! Battery BEM codes are now redundant with the above separate channels. The most important channels are:- Rated battery capacity, Battery technology, & Battery Serial Number. For the Battery Serial Number, just change one digit of the old one. This channel tells the BCM that a new battery has been installed & to relearn the new battery & forget any “learnt values” for the old battery!

Marketing people who write the websites just copy & paste stuff from other bits... As for the strut top mounts...usually there is some "latitude" for movement....my old mK1 Fabia had quite a bit of "postioning" movement before I decided on a position & torqued the bolts...

Here is a good explanation of how to alter the steering "feel" if you don't have the driving mode buttons, or if you want the setting to remain permanent..post no.4 here:- GolfGTIforum.co.uk - An independent forum for Volkswagen Golf GTI enthusiasts.

If you are after more "steering feel"...get OBD11 or VCDS & you can "alter" the steering feel/response in the electronic steering module....

Unfortunately marketing gets in the way..as the term "centralising" could be taken to also mean that it makes the alignment "central".... You have loads of adjustment on the tie-rods, & you have quite a bit of "movement" for the top mounts for the Macpherson struts..both if moved will mess up your alignment....so its marketing again!!.... They are a "locking kit" as they prevent the subframe moving side to side & back to front due to the difference in void between the bolt & the holes......in fact think of them as a "solid bush"....Also as they have flanges/lips they do "lock" into the bodyshell..!!!