fabdavrav

Various marketing people call boiler types different things, but there are several main types:- Boilers which have all the electronic timers & controls built in (System), or boilers without these (regular) Boilers which have an internal heat exchanger to heat up hot water directly (Combi), or boilers without this. (see above) Heating systems which have water storage in unpressurised tanks in the loft & are gravity fed to the taps (gravity/unpressurised) Heating systems which have no tanks in the loft & every hot & cold tap is at mains pressure with a mains pressurised hot water cylinder. (sealed system)

In UK the 1.8 was with multi-link rear suspension & was only in the L&K trim at the start..& yes it had the same gearboxes as the 1.4lt engines (on torsion beam) & thus limited by torque to 250Nm (for the manual MQ250) So there is no point in carting around a heavier front engine when a lighter & better 1.4lt will do. I went & got a MK7 Golf Estate in GT spec with 1.4lt (140PS) to get the multilink rear suspension.....so the best of both worlds.....

10yrs!!!.....WTF???!!....I still have the calendar that was done...!!!.... No longer Skoda..still VAG!!...

Get a Revo map when it is done.. I have the 140PS 1.4lt EA211 engine & got the stage 1 performance mode B re-map..so that's the 98RON fuel version..& boy it totally changes the car for the better!! The car can drive at 1,200rpm in 4th/3dr around town & not sound as if its about to stall..is much quieter under load due to the wastegate not opening as higher boost is allowed...more power everywhere, more "drivable" & how the car should have been from the factory!!

Ask Revo.....the EA211 engines mostly use the same Bosch ECU across the 140/150PS cross the VAG range....you ned to scan your car using OBD-11 or VCDS & send them the HW & SW numbers for the engine ECU..

HAHA...mine never "lost 8 valves"......but the dash did a good impression of a Xmas tree when I was braking & turning the wheels whilst driving though standing water...the ABS unit basically could not cope with what I was trying to do & said F***you & threw a strop & numerous spurious fault codes....

If battery is like for like type & Ah is fine no coding required..the car will learn over time that a new battery has been fitted. Changing the serial number 1 digit tells the module that a new battery has been fitted. AH capacity & type MUST match that of the battery installed...

Earthing to the seat belt point??.....I'd move that....as in a crash that could spark near you....& why did the person move the battery to the boot ?..was it a race car???

When I stripped all the suspension/brakes of my old Fabia I soaked the pivot bolt (front bolt for front bush on front lower arm/wishbone) with penetrating oil the night before....as the thread ia seen from the rear is a through hole in the alu console....this is the area in which it rusts in... Anyway mine came out ok..nice & slow..not spun on an air gun!

As others have said it should be in the measuring blocks section of VCDS for the CANgateway module or the engine or central electronics modules...I haven't looked there myself...(busy with other things) The stop start & regen systems uses masses of data from numerous sources...here is the VW self study guide on it that I have:- 00028122020-Nr__426__Start_Stop_System_2009.pdf

one is boost called for the other is actual measured pressure I think.....anyway that bottom right one is up & down like mad... considering the bottom left one is fairly smooth....

get some q-tips ..cotton buds,...& some IPA...isopropyl alcohol..or use meths....get the cotton bud moist..but not soaked!...& gently insert & clean the rollers & head.... or get a cleaning cassette like this..the "wet" type... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vinyl-Styl-Cassette-Cleaner-Demagnetizer/dp/B07DYCDSSN/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=cassette+head+cleaner&qid=1601495978&refinements=p_72%3A419153031&rnid=419152031&s=electronics&sr=1-1

Bottom right graph..turbo psi all over the place......as been said before..wastegate sticky..VAG has had numerous problems across various engines of the pivot joint between the actuator rod & the turbo arm..& it either is too loose & rattles like crazy..or its too tight a fit & its sticks/seizes & cause the electronic servo actuator to FUBAR.....need to dismantle the joint/remove servo , then clean & grease using Loctite 1300C grease or VW "hot bolt paste"....

Info on bolts etc in a post I placed in a thread in the Fabia guides section:-

Another reason why I went VW instead of Skoda when I bought my last car.....AC don't really care other than maximum profit...customer service is an alien concept to them. Anyway I do my own oil changes, spark plugs, etc. & have VCDS....but I still use Hawco for the big stuff like timing belts...

Just to remind people who have a 2wd multilink rear...so VRS & L&K...you can bolt on to the existing holes the part that was made for that rear subframe...all info here in the how to guide I wrote on the MK7 Golf forum https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-retro-fit-the-rear-subframe-harmonic-damper-from-the-audi-a3-saloon-2013.369369/

I used part number 5Q0 129 849 on my MK7 Golf..which has the same slam panel.... You also need two self tapping screws to fix it part N 906 986 06, M4.2x16mm bolt/screw...20p each when I paid.. All info on the how to guide I did on the MK7 forum back in May 2018... https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-retro-fit-the-gte-air-intake-to-a-mk7-golf.353884/#post-7167924

Rear subframe harmonic damper??..only for the 2wd multilink rear suspension though.....I did a how to guide over on the MK7 forum.. https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-retro-fit-the-rear-subframe-harmonic-damper-from-the-audi-a3-saloon-2013.369369/

This should be list of the main replacement/upgrade part numbers that people usually ask for. Please double check with your dealer the correct part numbers! Although I am 98% that these are correct, VAG can change them and the info that I have could be wrong! KDA 770 001 = Set of 4 door sill kick plates, plain black plastic. KDA 770 003 = Set of 4 door sill kick plates, black plastic with stainless steel inserts. FCA 000 001 = Set of 3 stainless steel pedal covers (fitted as standard to Scout). FFA 700 010 = Leather handbrake handle AZO 700 001 = Facia adaptor with cubby hole to fit a single DIN aftermarket stereo into the OEM double DIN slot KCD 779 001 = Set of 2 wind & Rain deflectors for front windows. KCD 779 002 = Set of 2 wind & Rain deflectors for rear windows. KEA 700 001 = Set of 2 front mudflaps. KEA 770 002 = Set of 2 rear mudflaps. KEA 770 003 = Set of 2 rear mudflaps for Scout. ZGB 5J0 072 100 = Headlight protectors pre face lift only. DCC 770 101A = Set of 4 rubber floor mats DAC 770 102 = Set of 4 textile floor mats DAC 770 103A = Set of 4 deep textile floor mats GCA 700 001 = Under seat fire extinguisher holder. GCA 000 001 = Fire extinguisher. K1Z 086 856 5FY20 = sunglasses holder in roof???. 1Z0 868 565 EY20 = sunglasses holder in roof???. 6Y0 881 577 A47H = Left side under seat storage box fits all old & new Fabias & Roomster. 6Y0 881 578 A47H = Right side under seat storage box fits all old & new Fabias & Roomster. 8P0 802 847 = Plastic Jack Pad Plugs (from Audi S3) projecting 15mm from buffer, 4 required. 8N0 803 855 = Plastic jack pad plugs (from Audi TT) flush fit to buffer, 4 required 8N0 804 583 = Rubber Buffers - (from Audi), 4 required 5J0 071 606 = Front bumper spoiler FAA 770 002 = Rear bumper diffuser KDA 609 002A = Chrome effect boot strip KGA 770 001 = Protective side strips FDC 779 001 = Chrome effect exhaust trim for 1.2HTP, 1.4 16v, 1.6 16v, 1.2TSI FDC 779 002 = Chrome effect exhaust trim for 1.4 TDI, 1.9 TDI, 1.2TDI CR, 1.6TDI CR I am ADDing to this at the momemet as I have a big list of stuff!..

This is a work in progress..photos to follow but main procedure is as follows; You don't need a jig!!! Find the two adjuster cables (behind and under battery) and feel for the black plastic slide ring against the spring...turn this to unlock and slide (push towards the front of car) it to compress the spring and then turn the ring again to lock spring in compressed state (this frees the cables from this end) Do this to both cables!! Inside the car, unclip the gearstick gaiter and stick a M5 bolt, drillbit etc (6mm I think) through the ring on the gearstick and into the hole on the gearstick base (this locks the gearstick). Then find on the front of the gearbox (under front of battery) a small black lever pointing up (12 o'clock). Press down (about 2/3 to 3/4) on the top of the selector mech (on top of gearbox) and then turn (and slightly push in) the small black lever to the right to the 3 o'clock position (do this by feel). This then locks the gear box mech. Then go back to the black plastic lock rings and unlock them to release the springs! Then turn the black lever to 12 o'clock position (pointing up) Then remove the drillbit or bolt from the gearstick lock pos inside the car. Then move the gear-stick through all the gears and they should be nice and even! Job done!!! Please do not follow exactly the videos posted below.....this is because it is for a Golf gearbox, not a Fabia! The difference is that the black locking pin on the gearbox is turned a different way! EDIT.............this way could be correct for a vrs 6speed gearbox.............so just be carefull!!!!