fabdavrav

EEKKK!!...😬.....get a tow bar fitted & fit one of those bike carriers that fits on the tow bar.....save the rear glass & the rear hatch hinges!! This will take four bikes....max of 15kg per bike...item is 10kg....means tow bar must cope with 70kg nose weight...if the tow bar takes less nose weight then the bikes must weigh less... Thule HangOn | Thule | United Kingdom

Agreed.....& back to what I said several posts ago...safety systems are all well & good, but they are ALL limited by the quantity & quality of the data they can see, & their programming, which can be flawed!...A well trained & competent person that can 100% override the computer & take back full manual control is the best solution. (or don't fit the stupid system in the first place!) The trend in modern cars to fit far too many intrusive "safety systems" encourages people to ditch their brains before they get in ...& when the car gets into a situation that the computer flashes up on the dash "I can't cope, driver must take over"....the proverbial hits the fan as the driver has no idea what to do... As far as I am concerned, if you have to have Lane assist & similar devices fitted to prevent loss of control of the car as you are worried you might lose consciousness etc. (as some have said)...then you really should not be behind the wheel ...& to quote others:- "throw away the keys & get a bus" ....is actually the safest option for yourself & other road uses, as you are a danger!!

So after initially saying you're all for the lots of modern safety systems in cars & planes, you appear now not to trust them??.... "Self driving" modes in cars rely A LOT on the Lane assist cameras to distinguish where the car is on the road (i.e. contrast between black tarmac white painted lines). This is used with the GPS info, front radar info, & various other speed, steering angle & other existing car sensors. Reliance on too many "driver aids" creates a FALSE sense of security & leads to a lax & sloppy driving environment. Some are good like ABS (sometimes, but a PITA in other situations), but many of the new "aids" interfere way too much in the driving time, & are in fact a distraction.

There is extra metal work in the roof for cars with factory roof rails.. Items no. 6&7 in this diagram......(for the estate version) Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Noting the recent "problem" (infill panel detaching) with a Boeing 737-MAX aircraft, brought back info relevant to your above question.... Trusting 100% the computers to fly the aircraft & apparently having no real way to shut it off (without messing up other controls), allowed faulty software (MCAS) to crash two Boeing 737-MAX aircraft killing 346 people between the two crashes listed below. Ethiopian Airlines Flight 302 - Wikipedia Lion Air Flight 610 - Wikipedia Going back to cars & lots of automated "safety systems":- Insurance Companies have already been having numerous legal wrangles with legislators, software writers, & car makers as to who will be libel for causing deaths of drivers/passengers or pedestrians when a vehicle in "self-driving" mode kills somebody.....or it takes such action to save the occupants of the vehicle that it kills a bystander..... Your life is worthless, you're just another number at the bottom a big corporation financial spreadsheet to be written off against tax...

I think you'll find that in the owners manual it tells you to disable the Traction control to better enable to you to get going from a standstill especially on snow, loose surfaces... Unfortunately they bury the setting in the touch screen in a sub menu on my car....so I retro-fitted the button that is fitted to the GTI/R....this to enable direct control..like I had in my 2001yr MK1 Fabia!! I've also had to alter various ABS settings to cope with bigger brakes & engine tune to stop the traction control intervening way too early!... I've re-coded way too many things to calm down the electronic "nanny's"....!! However when I ordered the car, it came with quite a few things, (thankfully not lane assist, high beam assist, park steer)....but I did spec rear view camera (its an estate so needed) & rear seat side air bags (for best rear passenger protection).... I do have "auto headlights"...but I never have the switch in that position....so many times the main lights or sidelights won't come on when I think they should be on to make my car more visible ..its a silvery colour..so in certain conditions is disappears easy... I can see, but you won't see my rear that well when you're in a 60mph or 70mph zone... I suppose it all comes down to what the capabilities of the driver are & how they like to drive...

I think you'll find that in many cases the pilots do actually fly the planes & don't just leave it all "hands off" to the computers......& in the worse case scenario there are manual overrides & etc...plus the pilots get re-trained frequently, are & tested etc., etc.. If car drivers were tested & re-tested to the same levels of competency as airline pilots then you wouldn't need all safety systems... The only reason you have so many "safety systems" is due to EU having lots of big brand cars HQ/manufacturing, car safety systems brands HQ/manufacturing, car insurance HQ, & all the lobbying that goes on with the EU standards & testing....Once the EU car brands do it, the rest of the world eventually follows....A lot of it is the safety systems brands come up with an idea, lobby the test & insurance lot & state "we can cut car accidents/deaths by "x" amount with this new device"....& then you next find that every body has to have one fitted to the car....same with Euro emissions regulations for engines...but this time the car industry has bitten back over the Euro 7 regs!...

Yes , but I wouldn't worry.... If you want to solely drop down one alloy size then its an 18inch rim.....& factory winter package was 18x7.5" ET51 with 225/40R18 92V XL.. The normal 18" alloy "summer package" was the same as above but with 92Y tyres...(ET might have changed due to alloy style)

I did NOT spec Lane assist when I ordered my MK7 Golf in 2014yr....(it was a factory option extra) as I knew then what a piece of #**# it would be due to its limitations... In late 2022yr I got a MK8 Golf as a courtesy car....with all the stupid "no buttons" full haptic panel/steering wheel etc., etc.....Doing driving with multiple stops in & out of different stores in & around the Inverness area (just doing normal shopping)..I got tired of having to turn OFF all the stupid stuff every time I got back into the car & started it up!.... Lane assist, on the main "A" (haha) A939 Grantown road was a #***ing joke with Lane assist...it had to be OFF...as it was like having a wrestling session with the wheel at every corner!.. I tested Lane Assist "vision" on the roads near me as there are various new & faded sections....on new black tarmac, with new white lines, there is high contrast & I couldn't get within 3ft of the white lines before it went off!!Conversely sun bleached/faded old tarmac & old lines...low contrast & I could drive ontop of the lines before it went off!!... Obviously it'll be totally useless up here with our snow etc..which is why they have to rely on highly accurate GPS & other systems for the "automated driving" on these newer cars.. Encouraging the "driver" to toss their brain out the window just means that when the car can't cope & flashes up "please take over" on the dash, the human behind the wheel will no longer have any idea what to do!...

The manufactures offer a "winter package" which is usually smaller & narrower..... For the MQB platform with the 340mm front brakes they offer a 17inch alloy.. TBH its usually cheaper & easier to find a winter tyre in a smaller alloy & /or narrow tyre size....also a narrow tyre helps to cut through the snow better than a wide tyre. My car came with 225/45R17...& I decided to stick with it for both my summer wheels & my winter wheels...(two different complete sets)..its a nice size, wide but with good sidewall for shock reduction ..

My exercise was helping with the cooking (on top of the usual drying up & putting away)...mind you having good simple food & a good beer whilst watching a good programme on T.V. & having the log burner on is a nice way to relax!.....😴......nite..nite!

21C air temp is still warm!!.......I do wear a very thin race type triathlon suit...so I can stay in the water longer....I used to swim in just a pair of "budgie smugglers" as you call them, but after 40mins I was having problems keeping warm as expending too much energy shivering whilst swimming!...So got the wetsuit & I usually swim for about 50mins to 1hr 5mins & do 2km to 2.5km...depending on the sea swell.....But as its a very thin suit 12C is about the lowest temp I can stand for long periods of time...

"chilly 21C".......thats WARM!!!............ I'm lucky if the sea water gets that warm at the height of summer where I live!!....usually its between 12C & 16C when I'm swimming in the summer!

The numbers in brackets are the designations of the controllers as they will show up in a fault code scan of the car... It doesn't matter if the car starts, ...the ABS module always asks for quite a lot of power.....& showing 12.2V is not good...with the engine off & all lights etc off, it should be above 12.6V...with the engine running it should be around 13.5V to 14.5V

ABS Controller (03) is these:- ABS, ESP according to the dashboard I had low pressure in the tires, according to the dashboard Central electronics controller (09) will be this:- Rear lights (including brake lights) Blinkers (including hazard lights) Interior lighting Dashboard lighting Screen wipers Sounds like your battery has a problem..or the main earth cable from the battery to the car body

I think I've found it (the one for your car a 2017 Octavia)...diagram is useless..item number 32 here:- Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Found the one for my car which is the same platform as yours... Item No. 14 here:- Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Glad it worked!! I'm having trouble finding the exact part number...you might have to go to the dealer parts dept I've had a look at all the seat belt diagrams & its not on it..the nearest is the seat backrest diagram here...but I still can't find it!!...That really should have it as the belt could rub on the metalwork etc underneath!!! Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Have you tried pressing down on the padding where the belt goes over the backrest to create more slack..to then feed the slack into the top slot, to then be able to unlock the mechanism & pull the belt forward?

You have a 7yr old car...it will/may do this just sitting on the driveway!....🤷‍♂️.....😂

I've heard of Celtic tuning.....I have no opinion of them..so can't say if they are good or bad...as don't know enough about them.... Their map states:- 130BHP & 155lbft Stock for your engine is 108BHP & 129lbft (175Nm) I have had a look at their website & it does not state if the remap requires 98RON...so it looks like a 95RON map...you'd have to ask them... Revo on the other hand offer 3 different maps....95RON, 97RON, & 98RON.... 95RON is 125BHP & 179lbft (243Nm) 98RON is 133BHP & 189lbft (256Nm) REVO Stage 1 Software for a SKODA Fabia MK3 (2015 >) 1.2 TSI | Only REVO Basically with the Revo stage 1 (95RON), you get less BHP than the Celtic tuning, but way more torque....

As safe as any tuning.....if you get a good map it will make the car as it should/could have been from the factory....& much more enjoyable to drive... Many people just get cheap stage 1 maps which just "turn the boost up" & do standing starts all the time, i.e. traffic light racing....or they go for stage 2 or 3.....& then when they hit problems they just get a stronger clutch....& then the next item that fails is the open differential in the gearbox.... Thats why I haven't gone for more power (than stage 1-B) as I'd fit a stronger clutch & also a Wavetrak LSD....& both items are £££££

The 1.2lt 108bhp (81kW), is a 4 cylinder EA211 engine...basically a simpler version of my engine, with a shorter bore & stroke, smaller turbo, etc... From the factory its designed to run mainly on 95RON unleaded, & can use 91RON in an emergency....(like my car & most VAG cars)... A simple remap will do the following:- Tell the electronic wastegate actuator for the turbo to remain closed for longer...thus increasing the "boost" on the cold air side into the engine. A good remap will also:- Alter the fuel pump duration as VAG strangle the fuel pumps at factory.. Optional with a good remap:- Advance the firing of the spark plugs so that the car now runs mainly on 98RON, & can use 95RON in an emergency. (All remaps should alter the fuel injection to suit the boost applied, and/or spark plug firing) Remember that the clutch Nm (torque) rating & gearbox rating from the factory is for the car fully laden going up hill, i.e. the worst possible case.....if you mainly use the car empty & don't do standing race starts you'll be fine with more torque... I ended up going with a Revo stage 1 map as its a good all round map...not focused on stupid high figures!!.......but the "B" version which alters the timing for 98RON as I always use super unleaded (Shell vpower) in my car...so I might as well have the car set up correctly for it!...

The calculation is correct....simple electronics calculations.....but its just hypothetical & yes my Ctek battery charger in its "bulk" stage (3) does charge the battery up to 80% capacity at a fixed 10A with a max voltage of 14.7........then the next stage is "absorption" (stage 4) which is at 14.7V fixed, but with a declining current.....& this gets the battery up to 100% capacity...there are 3 other stages after this of "analyse", "float" & then the long term connected "pulse" option

Mine doesn't get that low.....maybe 50%....but never flat.... Let me put it this way.... My battery has never been low enough to throw up fault codes or dash warning re the stop/start systems, power steering or the ABS & other systems which usually happens when you let the battery get really low... I know how to look after my cars!...