fabdavrav

Its a "retain fixed previous position" tool..... The reason for the huge amount of slack is to allow for tolerance/adjustment in a crashed car that has been repaired. What are you meaning by "motorsport centralising sets"??? If you mean things like this.. RacingLine Subframe Alignment For MK7 Golf, Audi S3, Leon Cupra, vRS .....then these are "locking kits"...These are to more securely lock the subframe to the bodyshell all the time There is no "lock" between the subframes & the bodyshell, just the clamping force of the bolts & as those bolts go through a big hole in the subframe, the subframes can & do move around under extremes...especially with the heavier engines & more torque/power... In the USA many homes have big concrete driveways will steep angle off ramps, & when turning into it can cause the subframe to move...This is what I hear from the USA members on the Golf forums. Also the Aluminium MQB subframe has serrated washers between it & the bodywork for the exact same reason...& many people when upgrading to this subframe forget about them & then the wheel alignment goes out within a year of fitting it!...

You have to use the subframe centralising tools ...this is from the ERWIN (VAG) workshop books for the MK7 Golf, which is the same as the MK3 Octavia... Of note is the last paragraph:- "If the steering wheel is found to be off centre during the road test even though locating pins - T10486/1- were used, check wheel alignment. In this case the wheel alignment test results must be archived in the vehicle files."

The wastegate actuator to arm pivot seizes up..the actuator needs removing & the pivot needs sanding & re-greasing... This is for a 1.4lt EA211 engine, but the basic principal applies... How to fix the turbo wastegate rattle on the Mk7 Golf 1.4lt TSI (140/150PS) | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum

Ok so I'm still on copper overheads...I know the nearest exchange is fibre...so are they going to now dig up all the roads to install fibre into the houses & before 2025yr??.....

As soon as you lower the car you have to tell the insurance company..... As for dampers I would go for Koni "actives", basically the new name for the old "FSD" dampers....which I had on my Fabia...nice & soft for bumps, but firm up when the body presses down on the damper i.e. around corners & when braking...& I used these with the factory OEM springs as they are designed to do! Another route is to fit the thickest front anti-roll bar that Skoda fit to the Octavia...It would be best to find out what you already have fitted...here is a screenshot of some OEM MK4 Octavia front ARBs

I have no idea (no record) what Brand the tyres were from the factory..even though I bought a MK1 Fabia 16v Elegance, brand new on 2001yr!!...I think it was Michelins or Dunlop's....I late swapped to Toyos on my bigger summer alloys & the factory alloys had Michelin's Alpin winter tyres fitted. Just get the same tyre size & load/speed rating as per the manual...any tyre made now has better rubber/traction qualities compared to the design that would have been OEM at the factory....time moves on!

My body certainly needs the swimming...its the only thing that helps with the long lasting (permanent) after effects of the emergency surgery I had 6yrs ago!.... As for posting...I've got so much on...trouble is I'm mainly on the big USA based MK7 Golf forum.....& the owner went AWOL a few years ago...& the place is spam-bot central every day, & the existing Admins don't have the appropriate "rights" to put in place stuff to stop it, so its a constant fire battle...Then in the past 2 months the host servers have been playing up!!....Result:- I'm trying to copy all the stuff I've posted & will some time soon go to a free blogger site & create my own "site" & place up all of my How to guides etc....A few of the other long term members are thinking of doing the same as if the servers crash thats it......all info lost!

I started to go back earlier this year after a few years off/avoiding due to the pandemic.......then 4 weeks later (end of April) broke 2 bones in my left foot...😬...So a few months off for that, then started to go back, took it easy...& then missed October as sorting the car out...Now back to it again!...

I've been banging that drum for ages....I did a big guide & several smaller one on the mK7 Golf forum, retro fitting lots of underbody aero from the other "eco" versions of the Golf..& even from other VAG cars! How to retro-fit skid trays, aerodynamic under trays, & stone guards to a MK7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum How to retro-fit the rear window spoiler fins to a Mk7 Golf Estate/Variant/S.W. | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum How to retro-fit the front subframe cover from the VW Tiguan (2016->) | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum How to retro-fit the Mk8 rear suspension aero covers or stone guards to a Mk7 Golf. | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum

Could be the main can gateway...anyway I wonder what this Tesla Dealer will say??......especially with all the yellow, amber & red weather warnings!!.....😂

Looking at the quick screenshot when he flips up the faults the dash shows, its mainly "low volt battery disconnection".....Basically the battery for the car electrics (like a ICE car battery) has loose terminals....many people still can't get their head around E.V. cars having two battery/electrical systems..one big one for the power (engine) & the rest of the car being like a like a conventional ICE car electrics/battery.... I recon like most recent ICE cars the batteries are under sized on amp/hr...& fail early...

You did state "I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the owners manual yet"....thats why I provided the link after reading it...

Here is the link to the UK Tesla Model 3 owners manual online... Model 3 Owner's Manual (tesla.com) No mention that I can find in the various subsections regarding "wading depth" or even driving through flooded roads/deep puddles.....nothing in fact!!...Only thing I can find is on how to operate the car in cold weather ... Cold Weather Best Practices (tesla.com)

For starters we are only going on what has been reported in the press.....& you say you'll side with the dealer..... Time & time again many dealers have been found to be refusing known recalls, repairs for manufacture defects etc,, no matter EV or ICE engine... If that Tesla was submerged enough to cause the battery pack to fail to due water immersion, the carpets inside & other items will show water damage....the dealer hasn't stated that, only "there was a yellow weather warning"...therefore the dealer has no proof that it was submerged & is clutching at straws to avoid having to cough up for a new battery pack due to a manufacturing defect!...Skoda VAG, & many others have been known to do the same i.e. refuse to cough up for a manufacturing defect Also as pointed out by others, plenty of other EVs driven in yellow, amber etc weather warnings & no problems!!

eek!... In all seriousness. If E.V. dealerships are going to routinely use the excuse of "you were driving out in a X weather warning" to find an easy op-out for a failing battery pack....I wonder what will happen when all the emergency services, & utilities companies vehicles have to be electric??...Those vehicles are out in the worst weather....

I agree with an amber or red being very serious...just the whole Tesla Dealership attitude of automatically blaming the failure of the battery pack on the fact the the car's owner drove out on a night with a yellow weather warning!...Basically the cars not fit for Scotland!...But in reality its more likely the dealers making B.S. up to get out of coughing up for the new battery pack...It will make for good reading in a Court case on consumer law.."not fit for purpose"..

No, but the the car's owner states they had only driven in to Edinburgh that night & driven through normal puddles, so not "wading"...Its the Dealer who used the excuse of "you drove that night when there was a yellow weather warning" as reason to refuse to replace the battery which had failed....The battery could have been gradually failing for ages due to manufacturer defect, just that the final straw was on that night when they happened to drive out when there was a yellow weather warning! TBH driving out on a yellow weather warning is nothing up here in Scotland.....If had to stay in every time there was a yellow or warning, I'd spend way too long indoors & not get to work, or not ski-ing, mountaineering or getting shopping done!

Re my earlier post on that Scottish Tesla dealership.....If you live in Scotland & have an E.V. (specifically a Tesla), park it in a nice high & dry garage for the next few days otherwise you might flood the battery pack & the dealership won't pay for it....

Actually there is no statutory legal obligation on the Councils to provide public toilets....Its a voluntary "for the good of the town" obligation, which they are ditching as fast as they can! that is why that sign you posted talk about Highland Councils "Comfort Scheme", where commercial premises can earn a small amount of money by "opening" their toilets to the general public. Usually hotels, restaurants, community centres etc, in remote areas sign up for this. However H.C. are trying to force this into towns by closing their exiting Council owned public toilets. In Nairn we used to have 8 sets of public toilets circa 33yrs ago.......now down to 2 with one other taken over by Parkdean caravan site..!...How H.C. saves money!!....I'd like to know WTF it does with it....wages, gold plated pensions, etc!! Back On Topic, with the massive storm hitting Scotland tomorrow, anybody with a Tesla should just park it inside as it might fail due to the yellow weather warning!!!...fecking dealers!!!

Fit a bigger case size (096) as the battery tray will take 3 different sizes & VAG usually fit the middle size to your engine....You will need to recode the BCM to tell the car the type of battery, the capacity & to alter the serial number coding lines. All info in the first post in this thread I made 8yrs ago.... How to retro-fit a bigger capacity battery to a Mk7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum

Tesla model 3 in the UK & driving through 18-24inches of water...car ok. I found the link via a thread on a Tesla forum, owner reported no problems with the car even months later...Re the news article I posted earlier...I reckon the car is faulty & the Dealer is just using the excuse of "yellow weather warning" to not have to cough up for a new battery!

they probably do have them, but those markers can give false readings & lets say that water did get in, yet the battery pack was never submerged??.. Lets say that what the customer states is true, as there is no other evidence to prove otherwise that we can see ATM....So basically puddles & wet roads, in heavy rain, no "fording", & the water depth was never more than a couple of inches at the deepest....then the battery pack has had a manufacturer failure on its waterproofing. Yes the customer "could" be lying, & you should be able to pull the drive data logs for the car in the previous 24hrs & overlay the route onto the google maps with known flooding on it, then you can tell "if" the car "forded". The fact that the dealer is basically saying "yellow weather warning was given your tough ****"....thats really bad & means the car is not fit for purpose!...I wonder how many other times when the car has actually failed & that same excuse will be used!!....I see court cases & the consumer act being invoked!...I've driven my petrol car down roads with a yellow weather warning & never had any problems..& that includes flooded roads..the most I did was get water in the low level front fog lights!...

Here's a good one from Tesla to some owners in Edinburgh ......rough quote:- "Scotland had a yellow weather warning so we're not replacing your battery pack which failed due to water ingress"... Couple furious as they're handed £17k bill for 'driving Tesla in the rain' (msn.com)

As its an MQB platform car I'd suggest unplugging the alarm horn which is under the front windscreen in the scuttle panel section.....indicators will still flash when battery is connecteed...Only way is to disable the alarm using the remote keyfob.....or unplugging the main alarm control unit..

Or use a 140PS 1.4lt (CHPA)....the only difference is the software...& the 140PS version easily makes 150PS from the factory without any modification. The 150PS 1.4lt is more commonly available with the complex "ACT" mechanisms. (Active cylinder Management, auto cylinder shut off) which under certain conditions disengages sections of the camshafts of 2 cylinders to be able to run on 2 cylinders only. This 1.4lt 150PS ACT engine is coded as CPTA. If you use the 140/150PS engine you will need to fit the MQ250 gearbox as its what they come with from the factory..or fit a much stronger MQ350... Quote on the 140/150PS engines from the VAG self study guides:- "In the 1.4 l 103 kW TSI engine, which is subject to a higher load, this is, a forged steel crankshaft. It features five bearings, four counterweights and a main bearing and conrod bearing diameter of 48 mm. To reduce the weight even further, the conrod journals are hollow-bored. Together, these measures reduce the inside forces on the crankshaft and therefore the load on the main bearings." All the 4cylinder EA211 engines have stepless adjustment upto 50deg of crank angle on the inlet camshaft...however the 140/150PS versions also have stepless adjustment upto 40deg of crank angle on the exhaust camshaft.