Dread1977

Thanks for the replies, upshot is its knackered then!! bugger was hoping not to have to replace it but I guess I dont have a choice now.. ive got that on top of a 2 new tires and an MOT!! wait all day for a bus and all that... thanks anyway guys.. ill start trawling Ebay etc now..

Guys and Gals, I had the rear brakes replaced on MY07 octy VRS and they have been fine for at least 6 months.. however now i find my fuel economy has dropped and the drivers side rear caliper is getting quite hot after decent length drives.. I looked inside the arm rest where the handbrake meets the cables and these were lop sided indicating something isnt right.. i slackened the cable off slightly and thats helped, ive also purchased some new caliper return springs to see if that helps, but the question is Would it be worth cleaning and re-greasing the slide pins and seeing if that helps, or am I looking at something more sinister? so new caliper time... Ive looked into getting them refurbed but there is nowhere in kent or surrounding areas i can get it done.. ive looked at big red for a full refurb, also looked at Ebay but all seems a bit too expensive for a poxy rear caliper second hand!!! has anyone else been caught out by these symptoms and whats been the fix?

it used to be that you have to turn full lock to lock to reset the steering pump... not sure if that is the case but when I had my battery replaced I did a full lock to lock and the steering then sorted itself out.

Dont ever think that just because you have paid for a service that its what you actually get... Mine has a full service history and has all the ticks in the book, yet my suspicions got the better of me and whilst doing some routine checks myself found that my pollen filter had never actually been changed (date was 2008) and my air filter was a black as a black thing covered in black stuff despite apparently being changed 10000 miles ago!!! needless to say my trust in any dealers/garages is gone so I figured the best way to get all the bits done I wanted was to buy them all from Eurocarparts, fit what I could myself (air/pollen) and pay a garage to change oil and filter I provided and watched whilst they did it!!! I can at least sleep better having watched the oil changed and knowing the rest I have done to my much more precise standards (cleaned all the air pipes and MAF sensor whilst it was all off) total cost of it all was less than 120 quid!! with decent VW spec shell helix oil.. (as mentioned in this thread though i have gone to a fixed service so il get the oil and filter changed again in 10000 miles) Its not hard to do any of it really and the only reason I didnt do the oil and filter is because its quicker for a garage with a Lift to get access... May be the sceptic, distrusting person in me but next time start putting little marks on things and then checking to see if they have actually been done... Also forget to mention I had the fuel filter done before at a garage, cost me £50 and all they did was use the same £7 filter from eurocarparts, undo 5 torx screws, take the old filter out, put new one in, let it soak for about 5 mins, then do the housing back up again tightening each screw up at even intervals to spread the load... all of it is easy really and can be done at home in no time... Bottom line, most garages are ******s!!! just my opinion but im entitled to it... Also filters are cheap enough to replace every year anyway and not worry!!

Yeah, these ones can be a pain... one of mine flickers occasionally and I have yo bugger about refitting it 15 times to get it to work again.. sometimes you need to not put it the whole way into the slot too... the new style PCB ones are the best as you dont have this issue, ill be replacing mine shortly for the PCB type Either way there is no reason they will not work.. mine have been in a while now and certainly look a lot better!! Hope you get it sorted soon fella

if they are the ones with the thin wires as the connectors you may need to trim them off slightly and center them a bit, they wont always touch the connectors if you dont. Best guy to use if Fizzmocouk on ebay...

get on eurocarparts and get an air filter and fuel filter for less than £25 and fit them yourself.. i paid to have a fuel filter fitted to my PD and wondered why i bothered... undo 4 or 5 torx screws, lift the old filter out, slot new one in, let it soak a bit then do the torx screws up again evenly to distribute the load, job done.. air filter takes 10 mins and involves no more than 8 phillips screws!!! dealers take the ****!! they really do.. and to top it all i purchased shell helix oil and filter from the same place and paid a garage £25 quid to change it... thats pretty much all of it done for less than £120 odd quid!!

Dont forget to take your car to the doctors for a TB jab...

I still remember an episode of top gear where Hammond and May mock Clarkson for saying "its honey badgers you need to worry about" bet they wouldnt take the **** so much after seeing those bad boys go at it!!!

Im guessing we all drive the same Race blue Octys!!

Took some buggering around as my headunit isnt android, but i had a play and managed this using an android phone i had laying around and a few cables and converters Android torque!! cool app... also the same £7 elm 327 bluetooth scanner

Lepsons in Gillingham is pretty well known for alloy wheel repair etc, they are drop off only though, dont believe the do a mobile service but you pay roughly the same for both so why not have it done proper!!

I assume its the G450 sensor you are on about.. if they have replaced it do you know if they adapted it and performed a forced regen to clear the soot levels down? usually means going for a drive with VAGCOM plugged in to watch exhaust temp rise and soot levels drop

I went to look at a BMW at the weekend, the dealer was so **** and didnt even know if the car on the website was in their stock or not so I walked away, very un-polite sales staff as well calling me "MATE", im certainly not their f$%king mate after walking on the forecourt 2 mins ago... so as a result I wont be buying a BMW, may look at a Merc instead now!!

Had all the same symptoms you are on about on my07 PD170.. Now the list could end up being as long as your arm here, but when all mine started it was the G450 pressure sensor causing the initial problems and making the car do a regen all the bloody time!!! So I would say if you havent had this replaced start there as its prob on its way out anyway if its not already gone!! Second, take off the EGR/Antishudder valve and clean that or get a bypass for the EGR and have it coded out, that seems to be another common one. Third, and what finally seems to have sorted my car is to take the airbox off, disconnect the MAF sensor and clean it with Contact cleaner, whilst you are there replace the air filter as I should have known better, mine had never been replaced despite numerous full services at main dealers!!! 4th, check the pipe that connects to the intake, nice big black one coming up from the middle of the engine bay.. mine had part worked loose when i had the glow plug light come on.. refitted and all been fine since.. Worth checking too is get someone to sit in the car, start it up and gently rev the engine whilst you are shining a torch at the back of the engine where the turbo is.. you will see the actuator moving as the throttle increases and should set back to normal when the foot is off the gas.. should give you a good idea that the actuator is ok and therefore the VNTs in the turbo.. Check this thread and look where the EGR is and the pipe connecting to it.. run your finger around and if there is oil there its not fitted correctly. http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/178231-pd170-stuttering-problem-solved/

I get problems with my VRS PD starting on occasions, its been quite a common theme on here and various VW and Audi forums with the 2.0 PD engine, I end up cranking mine for what seems like forever and eventually it will fire up and run lumpy for a bit then its fine.. yet sometimes i can come out at 1 degree above zero and it will start first time.. seems to be luck of the draw with these engines but when it does happen just keep cranking!! it seems wrong to do it and almost like the engine will blow up or something but they do eventually work and it may not happen again for a month, maybe even 2!! Do a search on here for PD cold start problems.. I think you will find a lot of people having issues, and although not directly related to your problem as you say it doesnt happen when cold, I would bet that they are related and as yet I dont think anyone has find a solid answer.. Not sure if these engines are supposed to log faults if you have a glow plug issue but im considering getting mine replaced, however I believe another member on this forum tried it and made no difference.. Try looking here to start http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/189502-cold-start-problems-with-a-pd-tdi-170/

Hi Excision, I ended up taking off the airbox as i had suspected the airfilter had never been replaced despite being service twice since ive owned it!! and low and behold it was as black as a black thing that was dirty and black!!! so lesson number one, DONT EVER TRUST A FULL SERVICE!! Whilst I was there i used some contact cleaner and cleaned out the MAF sensor and put it all back together nice and clean.. I had a poke around the pipework etc and happened to find that the very pipe you mentioned going to the ASV/EGR was slightly loose on one side (think the mechanic who did my oil change had removed it for access) anyway, popped the pipe back in nice, re-seated the clip and it seems to be staying in place.. on the upside the car feels a lot better now so jury out and we shall see how it behaves over the next few weeks.. whilst im here im on the look out for a rear drivers side brake caliper in Red if anyone knows of one going at a decent price??? Thanks for the info though, ill keep an eye on it and let you know how i get on!!

Remove the cluster and take it to a decent electronics engineer.. he would be able to de-assemble it and replace the LED for a hell of a lot less than 400 quid.. quite a few people used to do this back in the day on the MK1 octys to get the same blue and red colour as the MK4 golfs.. it isnt hard to do, any competent electronics guy could do it... (thats assuming it is just the LED, could be a dry joint or break in the PCB) Auto electricians may not cut it, you would be better looking for someone who repairs car stereos and is used to getting down to component level... dare I suggest it, take it to your nearest university that does courses in electronics, they usually have speccy boffins that would be good for this sort of thing.

Has anyone attempted this on a pre-facelift and actually got some pictures of them fitted and whats involved? seems a few people have managed it but in a somewhat unhelpful nature havent posted any pictures or guides... most unlike members of this site!!

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but has anyone actually managed this? I want to fit these to my 07 octy VRS pre facelift... anyone got pictures of this being done and working?

So explain to me how the new Fabia has fogs with LEDs in them and they seem bright enough to me.. they are surely the cree type, and if they are anything like my LED lenser torch that has 1 cree led in it then i would say they are plenty bright enough, 260 lumens of light from 1 bulb!! Perfect example of what i mean, this is what I would like for my car http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/OCTAVIA-II/Octavia-II-Facelift-09-12-RS-SCOUT-LED-fogdaylight-set-from-the-Fabia-II-RS-model

Thought about doing that, but its not the look im after, i like the 4 cree sort of LEDs that the originals have.. never mind...

I wished they would do the facelifted LED type ones for the non facelift cars.. I would like to fit something to my 07 VRS and use the DRL, i know its possible to use this function with standard fogs but would rather have the LED look.. anyone know if you can buy such a thing?

Had various faults on my previous Fabia VRS and my Octy PD170 with warning lights etc etc and clicking noises!! Both times its been the battery, get it changed pronto and see how you get on, cant hurt anyway if its never been done

Well ill start with a good look around at all the pipes etc and maybe see if i can drag an old friend round with VCDS to do a scan for me.. in the mean time i have the MAF sensor to clean, new air filter too just incase mine wasnt replaced by the stealers.. and see how i get on... thanks for the advice guys and hope the post helps others too.. Ill feedback what i find if and when i do..