Dread1977

Heres the ANS stereo in my car... OEM looking enough and the interface is a rip off from the skoda one, also 8 inch screen

Only thing id say about the one you displayed in the link is that ive not heard a single good thing about Ersin or whatever they are called... apparently reliability is an issue on those..

Ive been looking at similar units too only because I want an android unit to run Torque as my ANS810 runs WINCE... however as mentioned its not easy to find decent support for these after market ones (XDA developers sometimes is good for them) however the ANS series has a massive thread here http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f78/ans-810-ans-510-proper-rns-510-alternative-73179-59.html There is also the new DNS range which has more features and is faster than the ANS, but still in early ish stages of development.. (means you can find the ANS cheaper and maybe barter for it too!!)

id go after market as the price of the columbus doesnt include the possible controller replacement you would need to fix the battery drain issue etc, and you dont get many features really, whereas the ANS810 i got for mine does bluetooth, sat nav, has USB lead and IPOD connectivity, works with parking sensors, door CUE etc etc and all for £250, better still when the NAV is out of date you download a new update for free of MyGPS or FIXMYGPS... so much more for your money!! choice is yours though and for all those that say aftermarket is a bad idea, ive had mine well over 18 months without an issue!!

I got one off Eddie a few weeks back, fitted it with the help of a mate in an hour and he coded it with VCDS for me, £60 in total and its been faultless, used to death already!! so not a pointless comment fro Eddie at all, its companies counting on people not having any knowledge at all and if you had searched this forum there a guides a plenty on how to do it with pictures!! saved yourself £120 in the process with a bit of time and patience

Bigger issue im afraid, I suffer with my VRS as do many others on this forum and on the VW forums too.. seems to be a common issue with VAG engines (PD170) My car seems to have been a problem since the injector recall and feels less powerful too!! tried new battery and although marginally better its not fixed it.. Ive heard rumours of it poss being a crank shaft sensor but unconfirmed so far!! save your money replacing glow plugs etc, apparently not the issue.. im sure people will chime in on this soon... but keep cranking it over without throttle and it will start and run lumpy for a bit then sort itself out

Ive been running an ANS810 and love it.. although im tempted to sell it as I fancy a change, may try an android one!!

Funnily enough my car occasionally suffers from this very same issue!!! PD170 no remap and 76000 miles (07 plate) It doesnt always do it and ive replaced the battery and had various scans done without error, I would be very interested to know what causes this as its bloody annoying!!! please update this thread if your garage manage to find anything.. however id like to raise here that since i had my injectors changed i feel like the car isnt as good or as quick as it was before!! just me????

Id bite the bullet and pay for some of this guys time... if there is a way to limit damage or get you off entirely I would say he is your man.. If you can afford a GT3 his fees for an hour shouldnt be an issue :-) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nick_Freeman

Get it scanned again and ask for the actual codes not what the garage believes it is... these codes are used to identify the problem and are pretty good, post them on here and im sure guys will be able to indicate where you need to look. If its EML and its on solid there will def be a fault code logged. if the car doesnt rev past 3k rpm likely you are getting limp mode and once you turn off and on again it will be ok for a bit... get those codes and go from there, dont pay any more money with these garages second guessing everything, they do not have the same wealth of experience as the guys on this website!!

You need to go back to whoever scanned the car and ask for the actual codes. not what he thinks they relate to (ie P1024 etc) Without those codes its hard to relate to what the problem could be with your particular engine, Sticking vanes could be an issue (if thats the case search Mr Muscle VNT post) on here... it could be clogged ERG, could be many things Do you ever have Flashing lights, EML light, Glow plug light?

Exactly the same as my ANS810 unit, good unit other than the ANS uses proprietary software based on win CE do you get rear parking sensors displayed? im pondering changing mine as I want android instead of the WINCE for a few reasons

Would this work on a 2007 vrs?

ok, cheers fella

Ill take em off you fella.. can you find out how much postage would be to ME10 1YX?

I got mine done a while ago at a private paint shop for £80, jobs as good as needed and at £80 notes it was a cheap fix to an awful problem.. Apparently its got something to do with the releasing agents they use in the moulding process not being fully cleaned off, so eventually it bubbles the lacquer and away it comes, cheap ass skoda!!

Doesnt look a million miles away from all you need!! As long as you have the Torx Bits you'll be able to get it all undone with little fuss.... use the small thin extended bar on the socket to help reach it but other than that its 20 mins max to get it off...

Took me a while too!! no one mentioned it at all but christ it made life easier!!! Although you can just loosen it, i found it still wasnt quite enough so ended up removing the whole thing.. Top tip for putting it back though, use some tissue paper to pad out your socket set enough that the bolt doesnt drop back into it leaving you little thread to work with, then once you have done it loosely tape it in place with insulating tape that way you dont drop it down into the engine bay... once you have it in and started to tighten you can just pull it off and the tape will come away!! job done and you havent lost the bolt 4 times and nearly resorted to taking the bottom engine cover off!!! (thank god i had a magnetic pickup tool) Once its all off the job is easy... just remember once you unplug that electrical connector on the side of the EGR, do not turn the ignition on, otherwise you will end up buggering yourself and have to use VCDS from memory to get it all sorted again.. (ONLY TURN ON ONCE ITS CONNECTED BACK UP AGAIN AND PLUMBED IN) :-) Last tip, latex gloves and lots of swarfeega or however its spelt!!! or barrier cream and the carbon crap doesnt move off your hands easy..

Ive already gone through this on mine about a year ago... poss due to do it again!! its a bit of a pain in the arse and be prepared no matter how good you are to get covered in crap!!! one bit of advice, the pipe that routes off to the right of the engine from the EGR is bolted on to the engine block over the right hand side of the engine... you need to remove this to get enough movement on the EGR pipe to get it out of the way of the bolt holding the EGR to the manifold..

Changed mine in 10 mins, as long as its a VAG style connector (ie ANS810 for expample) then its a quadlock and 4 screws... plenty of threads on here about it in the ICE section

Any Pictures?

Sounds to me more like sticking VNT vanes in the turbo... poss clogged EGR but ive had the occasional similar issue with mine and think mine is down to the VNT. Still waiting for someone to actually do a decent write up on how to perform the MR muscle trick on a PD170 but as yet no luck.. I may just end up having a garage take the turbo off and clean it.. would rather do the Mr Muscle thing but no one is overly helpful in answering how to do it which is rare for this site! If you can find your turbo actuator, see if you can move it at all? will give you a good indication if its the turbo or not..

on the Fabia it was a proverbial piece of ****, however on the Octy they are tucked away and you have the lower arm in the way, I got 2 new ones as i could feel one was a little loose on tension, but changing it has been a mission i have not yet got round to.. if you can get decent access it should be straight forward with a decent set of grips to squeeze it together, however doing it from under the car is not so easy!!

G450 pressure sensor, google it and Briskoda at the same time and you will see plenty of threads on this.. £50 part, 20 mins to replace and do a forced regen and this issue will go away... despite what people say driving at 40mph in 3rd gear is the fastest way to clear the DPF down when it does a regen, I had a laptop connected when i cleared mine and that speed is when the exhaust temp went to over 700 degrees and started clearing out the ash! Also make sure you get the later part revision number for the sensor..

Just checked through this thread and had seen the G450 pressure sensor being mentioned, did you ever change this? if not then it would explain why you keep getting regens happening as the sensor cant tell how full the DPF is and it will default to attempting 10 regens during a certain drive cycle, if this fails you will get the flashing coil, DPF light on and limp mode... Get the sensor replaced then do a forced regen!