stever750

That's useful info, 2 mpg is significant for me on long business trips. I'm reading that the Vredestein Quatrac 5 is a similar summer biased all season, but with a low rolling resistance. Would be good to hear from someone that has tried both!

https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2020-Tyre-Reviews-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm Conclusion is that the Bridgestone is the best option for the UK climate, ie more weighted towards wet and dry rather than snow. I'm slightly concerned about the different results in rolling resistance, as I will eventually return to high mileages now that the worst of Covid seems to have passed

I'm going to have to change my fronts on my vRS Octy, and am undecided between the A005 Evo and the Vector 4season gen3s. Given the Tyrereview tests, I'm leaning towards the Bridgestones, given I live by the coast, so snow is very rare, plus I need to change them in the autumn, not winter as the fronts have around 6-8 weeks life left in them. How did you get on with them? Did you run them into warmer weather?

Sounds just like sawtooth of rear tyres, my last vRS diesel did exactly this. The only cure was new tyres, and the prevention is rotate tyres, don't use Bridgestones, and check rear camber / alignment.

Mine takes just a few minutes also to hit operating temp. Oil temp doesn't take that long either, should probably check the level!

MY2019 so I would be hopeful that the oil rings and the tensioner problem is consigned to history..... EDIT: just realised I'm posting in the mk2 thread, not mk3...d'oh

Not read through last 40 pages, but what is the trend with this issue, have more recent engines suffered this issue, or has it largely been resolved?

I tried a simple USB male to 2 x female splitter from amazon, and the dash cam works and so does android auto at the same time so good to go!

You can probably find a 12V cigar lighter powered USB hub somewhere, but probably over thinking this now. I'm just going to buy a cable splitter and see how that works.

Maybe something like this, only a smaller 2 port design: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Atolla-USB-3-0-Hub-Port-Black/dp/B07DWZCSPM/ref=psdc_430443031_t5_B01DYD3Q28

Yes I use the USB port for my phone also, wonder if there is a splitter so I could attach my phone and the cam, though that might not work.....I haven't tried it though, so no idea if switched or not, will check later

what am I looking at?

Is there a simple way of changing these from always on? I use the front console socket to run my dash cam, but it's inevitable that I'll forget to disconnect it and potentially flatten the battery. I've been searching for a USB adapter that has a built in low voltage detector circuit with auto power shut off, but I can't find anything. I'm not too bothered about parking mode, as that is run off the rear camera connected to the OBD2 port with a switchable connector with the low voltage protection. I guess the answer is to hardwire the camera into the ignition circuit in some way, but never attempted it before, has anyone tried this? Any guides?

I'm trying to find without success a smart USB plug for the cigarette lighter to power my dash cam, but with a low voltage sensor to switch the device off of the voltage drops so preventing completely draining the battery. I'm running two Garmin mini cams, the rear is powered by a switchable obd2 port connector which has this built in, but the front cam is powered by the centre console power socket. I just know that sooner or later I'm going to forget to disconnect it, and flatten the battery. I've found an aussie shop selling one, but surely some e somewhere makes a simple integrated unit?

I've just bought a mini as it was on offer from Amazon, but i'd like to set up a front and rear view system. The mini looks ideal for rear view, but would another one or maybe an L66 for front view? I'm leaning towards another mini, I'm not bothered with a built in screen, only image quality. The Garmin drive app looks handy, another reason for two minis. Any reasons not to get a mini, and get a 55 or 66 instead?

Is it possible to drink too much wine?? Carre du vin, genius lol

If it was my money, then a Fiesta ST, if you can't handle the ride, then you're asking the wrong questions maybe, and stick with the Octy. I've had a remapped Leno Cupra 280 previously, stupidly fast, but ultimately boring as way too quick for UK roads, unless overtaking slower traffic is your thing. All VAG chassis the same, safe and predictable, but ultimately anodyne and not very unadjustable. The only way to tell that you're at the limit of grip is the sound of screeching tyres, as the balance and steering won't give you any clues. FWIW, I've been thinking about remapping my 245, but frankly can't be bothered, the thrill of just acceleration in a straight line soon wears off, and all you are left with is a paranoia of premature engine failure.

Can anyone confirm if you can use this to change the VAQ diff settings on the vRS245?? VWIW, there are much cheaper ways to check for fault coders, I bought a £10 OBD bluetooth reader, and use the Torque Pro app if thaty's all you want to do.

It's been a few years since I did this, in the intervening years Shark have disappeared and Ben gone to Racingline? APR have just cut their whole stage 2 product due to ever constricting emissions regs. I'm impressed by the APR product philosophy, REVO has a good rep amongst the various BVASG forums. I'm swaying towards APR, if only because it's switchable; are there any other considerations?

My previous vrs had the 19" wheels, I prefer the ride and potential lower cost of these 18s.

Had a search for this topic but unsuccessful (using phone etc) Bit confused about wheel sizes and brake disc sizes. Of assumed that all FL vrs 245s have the bigger diameter discs and vented rears. I'm presuming that initially it was offered with 18" wheels, with the 19" telephone dial ones being a cost option, but at some point were these made standard? It's not clear when reading reviews online, My 245 has 18" wheels, but presuming has the bigger brakes.

Fwiw, this car was still running at 150k miles

You're assuming that they are different units for different levels of tune? Arguably, high power = higher gas volume flow rate = more restriction.

There are only 2 potential mods I'm interested in doing to my 19 plate vrs 245, one is a remap and got that covered, the other is to possibly change the VAQ settings using VCDS. Has anyone done it? What's the effect, its it worth doing?

I was trying to find exact spect of my car in advance of collecting it by searching by its reg number, and popped in some of the previous cars I've owned in recent years: 06 plate petrol vrs, sold with shark remap intact is still going at 148k miles allegedly. 12 plate vrs wagon still going at 130k miles 14 plate leron cupra no record anywhere!? 15 plate superb not been taxed for nearly 2 years, so assuming it's lounging on some back street forecourt somewhere... 17 plate vrs diesel that a passed on 18 months ago has also vanished from DVLA, it had high mileage around 80k after just over 2 years use. Im presuming that if the reg is no longer active, either the car has been scrapped or had a new personal plate.