MikeTheThinker

I'm assuming your VRS is a petrol motor? If so, the parts diagram for an '08 petrol fuel filter is here.

Would a weak glow plug cause this?

Also these, and they look a bit cheaper: https://www.tjmotorsport.co.uk/products.php?cat=16

These guys look as though they offer what you asked for : https://www.carbodypanels4u.co.uk/ford/cortina/ford-cortina-4-door-saloon-1979-1982-mkv

Is that just for the painting work or does it cover drive-in/drive-out?

Drone piccies by Chris Gorman; interesting article on a deserted UK under lockdown - https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/in-pictures-54181848

My situation exactly! Although having read this thread so far I'm beginning also to wonder about the economics of the situation ...

There used to be an active Dutch forum - worth looking to see if it's still alive.

@DeanVRS20VT I also have a library of mk1 files - mostly 1.8 T IIRC. I'm happy to hang onto them here but if you would like a copy for your library PM me an email address - I can send you a Google{tm} Drive{tm} link

Mark me "interested" too, please.

That's pretty scary ...

WHT 000 229A M16x1.5x70 shouldered bolt.

"WHT 002 795 dodecagonal head bolt M16X1,5X70" As far as I can see this is the same for all gearboxes - manual/auto/5 speed/6 speed - for a MY08 Octy. If the hub nut follows the metric standards then for an M16 bolt you need a 24mm 12-sided socket - one of which is included in that kit I linked to. I believe you're looking for a bi-hex 24mm socket, ideally deep and impact. Here's one from from China if you don't mind waiting: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24mm-3-4-DRIVE-DEEP-IMPACT-WRENCH-SOCKET-12-POINT-SINGLE-HEX-HUB-NUTS/254452281776?hash=item3b3e89b1b0:g:U2IAAOSw-zxd85pt

Here's a kit for several options: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Impact-Hub-Nut-Socket-For-Seat-Skoda-VW-Audi-VAG-TBS0195/184225890487?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225114%26meid%3D47210fc9b88b4519ab2cd597272aafcb%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D160654740315%26itm%3D184225890487%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithBBEV2bDemotion%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 BTW the VAG part number for the hub boly (dodeconal head) is WHT002795.

It looks like the hub centre bolt but I'll have to dig further to confirm that. What model year is your car, and does it have original wheels or aftermarket ones?

Looks like #55 - 10 point. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Audi-Volkswagen-VW-Seat-Skoda-Locking-Wheel-Nut-Key-55-10pt-Spline-Rib/123981071363?hash=item1cddd90403:g:NAQAAOSwnw5eNzy2 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vw-Seat-Skoda-Locking-Wheel-Nut-Key-No-55-with-10-Flat-splines/132600684652?hash=item1edf9de06c:g:~gUAAOSwFxJbt6SD

OK, update time. Attempted camboxectomy yesterday afternoon whilst looking over my shoulder at the advancing rain clouds. Bolts are both hex and torx (t25) so my Indy gets a limited apology. The rear cambox bolts, however, proved almost impossible to access (auto-seeking Torx bit on a spaghetti-like socket extension seems appropriate) and the one I was able to reach with my conventional socket set (after removing all possible obstructions) had clearly not been touched - hence the limited indy apology. Shame, as I've trusted them with our vehicles for 30 years but can no longer :( Spoke with a local and well-trusted VW parts house (Dub Haus) who recommended "without reservation" a local mechanic who is going to take an initial look in a week or so to see if it's camshaft+buckets or recon head time. Fingers crossed! I know we're heading towards "is the car worth it" territory but the rest of it is in pretty good shape - one owner from new, full service history, DMF/clutch done, only one query on VCDS which general opinion points to connectors (will be sorted). It had four new branded tyres a couple of hundred miles before I got it and I've replaced the battery and one rear hub bearing. Shocks are still OK but I have them on a list to replace next year. I bought the car as a "5 year car"; one year left before a cambelt was needed then four more years before the next decision point. At that point I'll be into my '70s and the market is likely to have shifted far enough away from weasels that next time will be petrol or hybrid. Just to complete the picture my wife's car is a 1.9tdi Octy which gets stunning fuel mileage - round trip (200 miles) mainly M6 - to Walsall t'other day 69.7mpg! The plan is to keep that one for local running around and the Scout for some travelling once Pat retires next year. Fingers crossed, eh?

Thanks for the input, Pete. You know it's daft; when I'm helping someone else I automatically think of the online catalogues but for some reason when it's me my brain shorts out 😞 I rang my local indy who normally does our servicing; he swears blind the bolts are torx. 7-zap suggests hex, and fleabay shows hex, so I checked on skoda-parts.com, who show - wait for it - hex! I know the indy didn't want to tackle the work so I think he's BS-ing me to get rid of me. The bolts are 6mm thread so I'm assuming 10mm head but (weather permitting) I'll find out Friday when I perform an initial camboxectomy to determine how much further surgery will have to go ... skoda-parts piccie FYI:

2007 Scout 2.0tdi, noises like worn cam lobe plus possibly collapsed bucket follower. I want to whip off the cambox to confirm before I get quotes for fixing it but it's persisting down with rain here so I'm trying to find the right tools so as to minimise my drenching ... Haynes obligingly tells me the torque is 10nm but not what size or type of bolt is involved. Can anyone enlighten me, please? Hex / torx / VAG 12 point / Allen / ?

Sounds like something road speed related, such as a tyre rubbing on a loose wheel arch liner perhaps.

Don't know your model year but here are the gearbox part diagrams for a MY07 to get you started ...

Think gynaecological but 1/2" back

How did you get the units apart? Or did you take a proctological approach to the problem?

I knew those disposable plastic gloves would come in handy sometime Any thoughts on whether the beams are adjustable and if so, how?

Cheers. I have a couple of sets of hid bulb+controller from Ali that I was going to use on a previous Octy. Any issues in using those bulbs (as long as they match, of course)?